hsears25

I am at my wit's end. I have a 2007 RX350 that is at about 134,000 miles and I have owned since 2017.

The check engine light keeps coming on and after my mechanic had it for 3 weeks and were unable to get the codes to clear, they advised that I take it to a Lexus dealership.

The dealership said that a pump within the EVAP canister is "not responsive to direct power" and needs to be replaced. But here's where it gets really interesting: this would be the FOURTH EVAP canister on this car in my ownership.

I initially had it replaced in 2018. Then, it was replaced again in September of 2022 (and again in March of 2023).

The most recent codes I had were P0452 and C1201. I first started experiencing the check engine light in January of 2023

This is what I have done so far:

• Replaced EVAP canister (September 2022 - paid for by me, March 2023 - no charge)
• Replaced gas cap 3 times (most recent OEM - January 2023)
• Replaced fuel filler neck (OEM part - February 2023)
• Replaced engine airbox + housing (February 2023)

These are the codes as of 3/24/23:

• P2401: Evaporative Emisssion Leak Detection Pump Suck OFF (recommended - replace EVAP canister)
• Secondary DTCs: P043E, P043F, P2042, P2419
• C1201, C1223

After the check engine light kept coming back on in January/February, my mechanic replaced canister #2 (all OEM Lexus canisters) along with the fuel filler neck, free of charge.

When they couldn't get the codes to clear, they recommended taking it to Lexus. The mechanic did at least 2 smoke tests on it and drove it a bunch trying to get the codes to clear with no luck.

I find it hard to believe (and my mechanic does as well) that I am unlucky enough to have had both of the most recent canisters be faulty.

I have no idea if these other things are related but just in case

• When I was driving it from Austin to Houston last week, the TPMS sensor also came on. Checked all the tires (except the spare) and they were fine
• The morning before I took it to the dealership, the radio stopped working -- all the buttons work and it looks like it's playing the radio, CDs, etc. but no sound is coming out.

If anyone can help at all, you would be a lifesaver. I can't keep paying to replace this one part over and over.

Mesquite77

For P0452 try tightening the big lock ring that holds the fuel pump on the tank. It is under carpet, and under second row seats, but the problem is when you smoke test you can never see it in that location. This is free (use a big screwdriver and hammer on the outside of the lock ring) but a bit of a PIA to get too, since rear seats and carpet comes out. Google yt for replacing fuel pump for how-to.

I chased a PO452 all over the place and that was it, last thing to try, because my smoke tests never showed that seal leaking, it is so tucked up. YMMV.

hsears25

Thanks, Mesquite! The dealership still has it at the moment and I'm waiting to hear back after sharing some more info with them, but maybe I can suggest this to them depending on their response!

iMSQ

What are the codes?

Margate330

Nice Mesquite!

When I replaced my fuel pump I cut the carpet under the seat with a razor knife for easy access in the future but I was careful not to cut it in a way that would be noticeable when I put the seats back in.
This made it easier to pull the carpet back without removing a bunch of trim pieces.

I would've just let a shop do the job but at the time I was having fun working on the car.
Kinda reliving old memories of turning wrenches as a young man out of high school I went thru my car and did a bunch of work on it and the fuel pump I pulled and replaced for preventative maintenance but at least the gasket Mesquitte is talking about held up as original and fortunately never leaked and threw codes.

DennisMik

The code C1201 is for the ABS braking unit - ABS Inlet Valve Coil LF Circuit Short To Ground. Have any of the repair shops said anything about that?

read this for more info -

https://www.kbb.com/obd-ii/c1201/#:~...your%20vehicle.

Margate330

Can I plz add, I did a tear down thread on the ABS unit aka that cube where all the brake lines feed into and the internal coils are not rebuildable.

Just opening it up to have a peek was a hell of a job. lol

PS- OP, I didn't have your code, I only bought a used ABS spare off ebay to tear it down and post up pics on Club Lexus and share the findings and that's what I came up with- easier just to swap whole unit out of needed. And- that's if you are dealing with the correct code as posted above.

hsears25

Hi folks, thanks so much for the input and sorry for the delay! The dealership's paperwork didn't have the codes on it and I didn't have time to get to AutoZone until today.

Here's what the latest readout is:

• P2401: Evaporative Emisssion Leak Detection Pump Suck OFF (recommended - replace EVAP canister)
• Secondary DTCs: P043E, P043F, P2042, P2419
• C1201, C1223

I've been told that the ABS codes typically show up when the CEL does -- the VSC and TRAC lights always come on as well.

I also should probably clarify that my skill and ability to go ripping things out and replacing things personally is...basically none. I'm more interested in being able to go to the dealer or another mechanic and not get the runaround / be able to rule some stuff out to hopefully cut down on time and $$$ for diagnostics.

hsears25

Just got back from Autozone. Here's what the latest readout is:

• P2401: Evaporative Emisssion Leak Detection Pump Suck OFF (recommended - replace EVAP canister)
• Secondary DTCs: P043E, P043F, P2042, P2419
• C1201, C1223

Felix

I'm going thru that now as well.....Dorman evap canister installed in middle of '20 & then warrantied that one for another last yr, now the cel back on, replaced the gas cap w/ a oem. The cel will come on a few days later. More important was replacing the radiator......IDK why Toyota/Lexus vehicles are so senative w/ evap/emmissions for. Last time the code reader said it wasn't critical being a #1 vs a 2 or 3.

Rdoktbr

I have the same car and occasionally the digital pre-amplifier shuts off and there is no sound. Outside of replacing it (amplifier) I just remove the key from the ignition and
restart. That usually resets the amplifier and sound resumes.