When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The crank seal won't be what is holding timing cover on, it just needs careful levering at a few key points around the outside to break the RTV sealant, then should slide off. Double check all the bolts are out and the crankshaft key?
Checked multiple times, all bolts are out. Whats the crankshaft key.?
are there dowel pins on the engine block that line up & go into the timing cover? If so, you need to remove the cover equally from all 4 corners - a little at a time. Meaning you can't force the top of the cover out with the bottom still snug to block.
Yes, there are dowel pins, some on the heads, one at least by the crank, may actually be a stud (i.e., a nut on cover side). The drive pulley would have been keyed to the crankshaft, as is the crank gear itself, but don't think that affects removing the cover, Pic from mine:
Dowels on heads
Stud by crank
Note the 2 nuts on the dowel/studs on the bottom Check the nuts on the bottom outsides
Thank you Mesquite so much, you saved a lot of grief, i counted my bolts & had 14. Then realized 1 was hidden right behind the engine mount. I lifted the block at bottom, loosened the mount and swung it out to remove the cover.
I removed both the Exhaust & intake Cams took the Cam tray out. I took a torx bit to the Head bolt & rounded it off. I guess i have to weld n remove it now. Got to buy the 12 pt hex bit tomorrow i guess, i do have a 6 pt allan size 10 but dont want to take a chance again.
Yah, those head bolts are tight, scary when you torque them. They are not reusable, I used Felpro bolts, but reused the washers, Felpro's were smaller for whatever reason. 4 years since I did the job, no problems, keep chugging away!
Yah, those head bolts are tight, scary when you torque them. They are not reusable, I used Felpro bolts, but reused the washers, Felpro's were smaller for whatever reason. 4 years since I did the job, no problems, keep chugging away!
Hmm Interesting 1 of the youtuber merryfrankster says those head bolts are reusable...
I removed both the Exhaust & intake Cams took the Cam tray out. I took a torx bit to the Head bolt & rounded it off. I guess i have to weld n remove it now. Got to buy the 12 pt hex bit tomorrow i guess, i do have a 6 pt allan size 10 but dont want to take a chance again.
Oh no!
I wonder if they use an impact on the head bolts to remove them for the hammer action instead of stripping the head
I haven't watched an actual tear down so I really don't know.
Its my lucky day !! yay Got the rounded head bolt out. Bought a 14mm nut (long) cleaned the old welds really thoroughly with dremel & cutoff wheel. Welded it, kept my fingers Xsd, came out like a charm. Ofcourse had a bent valve on cyl 3. The bent valve had pushed the valve seat up. just by gentle push the valve seat came off in my hand. Otherwise the cyl walls look really nice, even the piston (will take a closer look tomorrow again). I had to cut the valve stem near the head bolt to get easy access with my dremel.
I used a single tube of Threebond 1207b (SM says use that or Toyota FIPG, same stuff I guess) that did both oil pans, timing cover. cam carrier and RMS plate still had some left, good stuff. I ordered 2 tubes, but other one expired years ago unopened. Shelf life is only about 1 year, box has a use by date, apparently it matters.
Just a noob question, So bank 1 cyl head is out & pistons are exposed, whereas bank 2 cam tray is still intact with cam gears & secondary chain. In this state If i turn the crank will it affect the timing.? Wonder how else would i turn to check the cylinder walls, piston movement.
Do not move the crank, you will hit bank 2 valves. Just look at what you can see and move on. I actually removed both heads and had all new valve springs put on and machined at a shop.
07-08-24, 07:45 PM
