Margate330

That fuse gives +12v thru the relay to the coil plug on pin +B when key is all the way on or running.

That was the test I did above and posted.

You never said what your voltage was in +B so I don't send people on goose chases without knowing info. Lol

PS, that fuse is only one possible direction in the way this circuit splits in multiple directions. You need more diagrams just let us know.

tammap

Would you get an image of the fuse box in it entirety.

JusB

The missing relay is IG2.

tammap

Someone really butchered this vehicle! Check your 3,4,5,6,7,28 fuses. No 10 amp fuse for 28 that is your injectors fuse!



.

JusB

Why can't I paste into this box? I have a whole post ( I type with two fingers...slow.) that I'd like to enter, and it won't let me.
Oh well.
Thanks for laffin, that made my day.
Here is a fresh start so we can be on the same page.
My coil probe matches your coil probe with the exception of I have no +12V on +B.
I have no +12V on B+ because IG2 doesn't have it to send. When the key is turned to the ON position, the relay clicks, (which I take to mean that the switch has closed)
When the switch closes, current (+12V) should travel from pin 5 to pin 3 on IG2, and on to +B at the coil. My problem is that there IS no +12V for IG2 to send.
The relay is functioning, only it has no +12V to give to the coils.
The problem hers is no power to coils, no power to fuel pump. We determined that IG2 is responsible for both the coils, and fuel pump.
IG2 has no +12V to send,
I've already mentioned that I can't read a schematic, but after an hour or so and a couple dozen ibuprofen, I googled "Lexus Fusible Link Block"
There is a heap of videos ofreplacing the fusible link block, IS, GS etc...all having the same 2GR-FE, but not a one is RX. Does that mean that the RX doesn't use this "Block"?
I don't see it on mine, but it's been raining for 2 days and I can't swear to that
At any rate, I need to restore the +12V to IG2, so that it can power coils and fuel pump.
I used a multi-meter and tested across each mini fuse in the panel, set to DC voltage and 20V range. to verify that all circuits had +12V. With the key in the ON position, three or four were unpowered. I checked, and all were headlamp related. Turned on the headlamp switch, and ALL were powered on both sides of the mini fuse.
With ONE exception. Fuse #32 has no power. The manual says it isEFI NO.2. That fuse is NOT being powered. I would like to remove and test the big box fuses, the 40s and 50s, and I tried to do so, but these things are very difficult to remove.It feels to me like they are seized, and after breaking 2, I put this on the back burner.
To sum it all up, I need to restore power +12V to the no. 5 on IG2. This will restore power to coils and fuel pump.
Probably be a good idea to investigate that EFI NO.2 fuse as well, but I am hoping that it will be restored when pin 5 is powered.
Tell me if I did better this time, succinct and all that jazz.

= )
I'm trying.

JusB

Good catch. I had noticed that there was a missing fuse, in the pic you can clearly see that there is a terminal on one side, but if it werent raining cats and dogs...I'd send another pic to show that it appears NOT to have a terminal on the other side. I dismissed it because I thought it was for a feature that this vehicle doesn't have. I should have verified. There are some vacant slots, like AIR SUS, etc.
So I screwed up.
Thanks for catching it.
Do you know offhand if this has anything to to with my missing +12V on pin no. 5 on IG2 relay? I can't read a schematic.

Thanks and be safe.

Margate330

Yes friend you are doing better.
NOw that you have spent some time with the car you can see how complicated the wiring is.

Here's the good news.
The complexity is greatly reduced when it's realized everything on the car is grouped by function.

Many functions over lap.

More good news, there is nothing electrical on our cars that can't be fixed.

However this requires a clear diagnostic path step by step. Some people get lucky by using brute force and pulling every fuse and relay and chasing wires all over the car but this is the hardest and most painful way to diagnose as you are now witness. Smiles

You want info and not help, which is it?
Either way is ok, some people like to figure things out on their own and nothing wrong with that.

JusB

As I have said, I can't read a schematic. With that said, I would appreciate guidance at this point.
If you can tell me what to check next, I would be happy.I

Margate330

Yes you can and you are doing it already.
The schematics are the Rosetta stone
We match the wires to the functions,.

Ok, first thing is basic info.

Talk to us like we are 5 years old step by step and please be clear.
If you measure a voltage please tell us what wire or pin and how you measured it- battery unhooked or hooked up, and measured rom where to where, be clear please.

Basics, before beginning.
​​​​​​1). When you put the key in the ignition and turn it to "on", does the red security light on the dash light stop blinking?

2): when you put the key in the ignition and turn to "on" do you see the "idiot lights" like check engine and more immuninated in the dash???

​

Felix

<<<<
True that..........

tammap

Absolutely! Keep us posted on your progress

JusB

hi folks. We had a storm, and long after it ended, ( couple of hours anyway)...we lost power..When the power came back this dell wouldnt start up.
I was an OEM System builder for 12 years. I finally got it back. At any rate, I told my neighbor to order all 4 camshaft sensors. As soon as I get those, I will update everyone.
I do want to thank everyone for their help. I've never seen a vehicle that was this hard to find info for. You people evidently identify with these critters, thats beyond me.

Be safe and stay tuned.

Margate330

Peace out... ✌️