Engine light is on
#1
Engin light, VSC light and traction control light are on
He everyone, i have a 2008 Lexus RX350, the engine check light as well as the VSC light and traction control light came up on the dashboard , 2 weeks ago. The engine light is solid, the vsc is flashing. Checked the gas tank cap, nothing wrong. The lights disappeared, but came back again. Scanned, error lists: p0356, c 1223, c1241, c1201, b2761,b2410,b2417. Yesterday, it was on, after driving for one hour, stopped, turned off the engine. When turned on the engine in one hour it was OK, but after driving for 1 hours the lights came up. I disconnected the battery, then connected, the lights went off. The battery is 1 year old ( Lion 459). I was wondering if it is the battery issue or something wrong with spark/ coil..any idea? Thanks
Last edited by Dan1981; 10-01-24 at 05:09 AM.
#2
He everyone, i uave a 2008 Lexus RX350, the engine check light as well as the VSC light came up on the dashboard , 2 weeks ago. The engine light is solid, the vsc is flashing. Checked the gas tank cap, nothing wrong. The lights disappeared, but came back again. Scanned, error lists: p0356, c 1223, c1241, c1201, b2761,b2410,b2417. Yesterday, it was on, after driving for one hour, stopped, turned off the engine. When turned on the engine in one hour it was OK, but after driving for 1 hours the lights came up. I disconnected the battery, then connected, the lights went off. The battery is 1 year old ( Lion 459). I was wondering if it is the battery issue or something wrong with spark/ coil..any idea? Thanks
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MickQueensland (10-23-24)
#4
By any chance has the battery been drained at all, perhaps needing a jump or charge from leaving lights on or door open since you got it? Any chance the battery connections at the terminals could be corroded or loose? Check to see what the voltage is while running and right after you turn it off it does sound like an electrical issue (low voltage) more than a mechanical issue. "New" battery doesn't necessarily mean "good battery".
Thanks mate for your help. I bought this car 3 months ago and never had any issues with the battery. I am wondering if has the right size of battery.. is not small battery for this car?
Last edited by Dan1981; 09-29-24 at 09:17 PM.
#5
#6
Swapping the coils requires an allen wrench to remove the top engine cover and a 10MM socket to remove the coil both extremely easy unless you drop a bolt or wrench/socket down the engine abyss. Again without knowing what the previous owners experience with the battery was (did it ever run down and need a charge or jump? Was it proper charged fully upon purhcase? Simply knowing how old it is means little and could easily be your source of problems). Swapping the coild ought to be done, so should the battery voltage check. When trying to source problems/eliminate issues always do so in a methodical manor it saves a lot of time/headache and money. 3 allen bolts for the engine cover, one 10 mm bolt for each coil. A digital vottmeter for the battery can be had for under $10 USD here in the states
Coils - when swapping them make sure they are all the same mfg, go get some electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic and give the connectors a good quick spray out to help with any possible corrosion/assure the contacts are good. Removing the top cover, swapping teh coils takes maybe 5-10 mins atmost very easy. Look to make sure tehre is no liquids (oil or gas) on the coils near the spark plug give the spark plug end of the coil a shot of cleaner too to ensure good contact careful of your eyes will will blow back)
Coils - when swapping them make sure they are all the same mfg, go get some electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic and give the connectors a good quick spray out to help with any possible corrosion/assure the contacts are good. Removing the top cover, swapping teh coils takes maybe 5-10 mins atmost very easy. Look to make sure tehre is no liquids (oil or gas) on the coils near the spark plug give the spark plug end of the coil a shot of cleaner too to ensure good contact careful of your eyes will will blow back)
The following users liked this post:
MickQueensland (10-23-24)
#7
Swapping the coils requires an allen wrench to remove the top engine cover and a 10MM socket to remove the coil both extremely easy unless you drop a bolt or wrench/socket down the engine abyss. Again without knowing what the previous owners experience with the battery was (did it ever run down and need a charge or jump? Was it proper charged fully upon purhcase? Simply knowing how old it is means little and could easily be your source of problems). Swapping the coild ought to be done, so should the battery voltage check. When trying to source problems/eliminate issues always do so in a methodical manor it saves a lot of time/headache and money. 3 allen bolts for the engine cover, one 10 mm bolt for each coil. A digital vottmeter for the battery can be had for under $10 USD here in the states
Coils - when swapping them make sure they are all the same mfg, go get some electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic and give the connectors a good quick spray out to help with any possible corrosion/assure the contacts are good. Removing the top cover, swapping teh coils takes maybe 5-10 mins atmost very easy. Look to make sure tehre is no liquids (oil or gas) on the coils near the spark plug give the spark plug end of the coil a shot of cleaner too to ensure good contact careful of your eyes will will blow back)
Coils - when swapping them make sure they are all the same mfg, go get some electrical contact cleaner that is safe for plastic and give the connectors a good quick spray out to help with any possible corrosion/assure the contacts are good. Removing the top cover, swapping teh coils takes maybe 5-10 mins atmost very easy. Look to make sure tehre is no liquids (oil or gas) on the coils near the spark plug give the spark plug end of the coil a shot of cleaner too to ensure good contact careful of your eyes will will blow back)
I checked with the previous owner about the battery. Tge battery died once whilst he had the car and got replaced and then no more issues. I removed the cover, but did not swapped the coils. I noticed something like oil on the other side ( coil #3??). Is it unusual?
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#8
My suggestion - with the egnine cold/cool spray it very well with Simple Green or Castrol Purple cleaner let it soak for a bit, scrub it with a brush, hose it off, then go to a high pressure spray wash and give the whole engine a good cleaning. This will allow you start with a "clean slate" to see if the leak is continuing or from an old isue. Swap the two coils, spray them with electrical conttact cleaner see if the codes follow the movement of the coils. That is fuel looks like a minor leakage from the o-ring in your fuel injector they get brittle with age no longer seal, those are extremely cheap and easy to replace and ought to be swapped out periodically (while I had my fuel injectors out I cleaned them there are many YouTube videos on how to do this with a bicycle's Shreader valve and some brake cleaner). All in all your engine does look pretty clean. That big bar PA-66 above the leak is your "fuel rail", red thing is your fuel injector, brown stuff... is dirt. Your coils havee a wire going to them, and rectangular about 2" with a flat top with a single 10MM bolt holding them in place not shown in your picture.
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