Hitch Question
#16
Pole Position
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Minnesota
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Re: RX 330 2000 Lexus Tow Hitch
Originally posted by nodefect
I already have the pre-installled tow package. What a joke! They charge us for an incomplete towing package, then hit us again for the hitch.
I already have the pre-installled tow package. What a joke! They charge us for an incomplete towing package, then hit us again for the hitch.
#17
You got a line...
It's amazing how the customer treatment at Lexus dealerships can vary so dismally.
If you have the "tow prep package", installation should be straightforward. See my previous post about how I installed the Draw-Tite. The important thing to me was that it had to be a "no-drill" installation. Installing the Draw-Tite hitch was a snap. Note that I have *no idea* what the Lexus-supplied hitch involves.
It's installing the wiring harness where I've been paying extra attention on what to remove from the back cargo floor. If someone can clearly explain whether I need to pull the forward bin, the left/right/middle rear bins, that would help a lot. The shop manual isn't really detailed in how things go together back there.
I'll post photos of the wiring harness I got from Parts shortly.
If you have the "tow prep package", installation should be straightforward. See my previous post about how I installed the Draw-Tite. The important thing to me was that it had to be a "no-drill" installation. Installing the Draw-Tite hitch was a snap. Note that I have *no idea* what the Lexus-supplied hitch involves.
It's installing the wiring harness where I've been paying extra attention on what to remove from the back cargo floor. If someone can clearly explain whether I need to pull the forward bin, the left/right/middle rear bins, that would help a lot. The shop manual isn't really detailed in how things go together back there.
I'll post photos of the wiring harness I got from Parts shortly.
#18
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Illinois
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#21
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RX330 Hitch
To Mattogu:
Yours looks like a very clean installation of the Draw Tite hitch. Which Draw Tite model did you install, the PN75153? I've checked several web sites selling this particular model (75153) for the RX330 and the photos they display of the hitch do not feature the square wrap-around the tail pipe like yours. I prefer your model because it does not require that the tail pipe be lowered to install. Please let me know exactly which model and its part number, if possible, so I can research and obtain one. Many thanks in advance.
Vince
Yours looks like a very clean installation of the Draw Tite hitch. Which Draw Tite model did you install, the PN75153? I've checked several web sites selling this particular model (75153) for the RX330 and the photos they display of the hitch do not feature the square wrap-around the tail pipe like yours. I prefer your model because it does not require that the tail pipe be lowered to install. Please let me know exactly which model and its part number, if possible, so I can research and obtain one. Many thanks in advance.
Vince
#22
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yes Vince it is P/N 75153 Draw-Tite.I purchased it online from etrailer.com,price was about $120.really easy install,you just need alittle help to hold it up until you get bolts started.hitch is rated for 3500lbs,but I don't know if rx could handle that much towing.I use it for my bike rack only.Matt
#23
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Originally posted by mattogu
hitch is rated for 3500lbs,but I don't know if rx could handle that much towing.
hitch is rated for 3500lbs,but I don't know if rx could handle that much towing.
On a different note I can't say that I am particularly enamored over the looks of any of the hitch installations that I've seen so far. Too bad they can't make one less obtrusive-looking.
#24
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RX330 Hitch
Matt:
Thanks for your reply on the Draw tite hitch. I started checking around here in the North San Diego area and learned that those dealers that carry Draw Tite unit were out of stock with a significant back order. I was told by one recommended dealer to call back in a month. However, I was fortunate enough to find one store that had two 75153 units in stock. The best deal he would offer was $159.95 for the unit and $40 for installation. I decided, in the interest of time and the fact that I need the hitch for carrying my bikes, to accept the deal. I have placed a hold on the hitch and plan to make a visit this week or early next. The dealer confirmed that the 75153 does have the tail pipe wrap around. Strange how many web sites do not use a photo of the actual hitch when marketing their products. That is what caused my confusion.
As for JRB's comments, I agree that these units do change the rear look of the vehicle somewhat but I figured the tubular look was, IMHO, not quite as objectionable as the square Hidden Hitch unit. Beauty is truely in the eye of the beholder...
Thanks for your reply on the Draw tite hitch. I started checking around here in the North San Diego area and learned that those dealers that carry Draw Tite unit were out of stock with a significant back order. I was told by one recommended dealer to call back in a month. However, I was fortunate enough to find one store that had two 75153 units in stock. The best deal he would offer was $159.95 for the unit and $40 for installation. I decided, in the interest of time and the fact that I need the hitch for carrying my bikes, to accept the deal. I have placed a hold on the hitch and plan to make a visit this week or early next. The dealer confirmed that the 75153 does have the tail pipe wrap around. Strange how many web sites do not use a photo of the actual hitch when marketing their products. That is what caused my confusion.
As for JRB's comments, I agree that these units do change the rear look of the vehicle somewhat but I figured the tubular look was, IMHO, not quite as objectionable as the square Hidden Hitch unit. Beauty is truely in the eye of the beholder...
#25
Driver
Thread Starter
I just ordered the Draw Tite #75153 from eTrailer. Cost was $121.29 + $14.58 shipping. Thanks to everyone for your advise and comments, it was very helpful.
Best Regards...........Bob
Best Regards...........Bob
#26
Re: Stop the presses!
Originally posted by redgs400
Just got a call from the parts guy at our Lexus dealership (hey, how's that for personal service?):
He noticed that Lexus now offers a 3500 lb hitch receiver kit for the RX330. Part number is PT22848045. It includes the wiring harness, and retails for $285.
Just got a call from the parts guy at our Lexus dealership (hey, how's that for personal service?):
He noticed that Lexus now offers a 3500 lb hitch receiver kit for the RX330. Part number is PT22848045. It includes the wiring harness, and retails for $285.
Oliver
#27
Lexus of Portland (Oregon)
My local Lexus dealership is Lexus of Portland (Oregon). http://www.portlandlexus.com
Eli in the parts department said that he found it while surfing a Website accessable only within the corporation.
Eli in the parts department said that he found it while surfing a Website accessable only within the corporation.
#28
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The parts guy at the chicago dealership found that too. It was on teh website mentioned above.
Something titled "New part notification 3500 lb hitch accessory available" I think.
I saw the screen but the parts guy didn't know how to open a pdf. I was in too much of a hurry to show him!
Something titled "New part notification 3500 lb hitch accessory available" I think.
I saw the screen but the parts guy didn't know how to open a pdf. I was in too much of a hurry to show him!
#30
Finally got Lexus/Toyota wiring harness installed
Okay, I finally HAD to get the trailer wiring harness installed tonight since I need to use my light trailer. I did some photo-documentation for the forum. Note that I'm working on a U.S.-spec RX330 built in Japan.
It took me around 90 minutes to finish. Tools required were a 12 mm socket wrench, a flat-blade screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers. The latter two tools were used to remove the push-in button fasteners.
Generally speaking, here were the steps I took:
1. Removed the forward cargo floor deck/cover
a. Pulled up the carpeted panel immediately behind the rear seat. It's held in place by six snap-in fasteners.
b. Removed the two 12 mm bolts holding the panel in place
2. Removed the forward underfloor cargo box by removing the two push-in fasteners towards the rear of the cargo box. This is the cargo box containing the tire-changing jack and tools
3. Removed the two rearmost pop-up cargo compartment covers/floor panels by removing the four yellow-plated nuts on the forward side of the spring-loaded hinges and the six black 12 mm bolts on the rear side of the hinges.
4. Removed the center rear underfloor cargo box after removing two push-in fasteners
5. Removed the left rear underfloor cargo box by removing the one plastic capnut on the bottom of the cargo box and one or two more push-in fastener.
6. Located the end of the factory-installed pigtail. It was taped to the main wiring harness running along the outer perimeter of the last cargo box removed.
7. Removed the rubber plug in the cargo compartment floor near the factory-installed pigtail.
7. Threaded the end of the trailer wiring harness with the white connector up through the newly-opened hole in the compartment floor, including the pre-installed rubber plug on the wiring harness.
8. Plugged the white connector on the wiring harness to the pigtail on the main wiring harness.
9. Reassembled all of the items removed from the rear cargo area.
10. Routed the cable under the vehicle, and used exterior-rated 11" cable ties to secure the wiring harness to my Draw-Tite hitch.
Here's some photos for reference:
It took me around 90 minutes to finish. Tools required were a 12 mm socket wrench, a flat-blade screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers. The latter two tools were used to remove the push-in button fasteners.
Generally speaking, here were the steps I took:
1. Removed the forward cargo floor deck/cover
a. Pulled up the carpeted panel immediately behind the rear seat. It's held in place by six snap-in fasteners.
b. Removed the two 12 mm bolts holding the panel in place
2. Removed the forward underfloor cargo box by removing the two push-in fasteners towards the rear of the cargo box. This is the cargo box containing the tire-changing jack and tools
3. Removed the two rearmost pop-up cargo compartment covers/floor panels by removing the four yellow-plated nuts on the forward side of the spring-loaded hinges and the six black 12 mm bolts on the rear side of the hinges.
4. Removed the center rear underfloor cargo box after removing two push-in fasteners
5. Removed the left rear underfloor cargo box by removing the one plastic capnut on the bottom of the cargo box and one or two more push-in fastener.
6. Located the end of the factory-installed pigtail. It was taped to the main wiring harness running along the outer perimeter of the last cargo box removed.
7. Removed the rubber plug in the cargo compartment floor near the factory-installed pigtail.
7. Threaded the end of the trailer wiring harness with the white connector up through the newly-opened hole in the compartment floor, including the pre-installed rubber plug on the wiring harness.
8. Plugged the white connector on the wiring harness to the pigtail on the main wiring harness.
9. Reassembled all of the items removed from the rear cargo area.
10. Routed the cable under the vehicle, and used exterior-rated 11" cable ties to secure the wiring harness to my Draw-Tite hitch.
Here's some photos for reference: