30K Service Brake Fluid Change?
#1
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30K Service Brake Fluid Change?
I do most of my own service on my RX330, but one item I don't think I can tackle is the brake fuild replacement, that is recommended at 30K miles.
I have had many cars over the years and don't ever remember this being required.
Is this a really important service? Is it easy to perform?
If I take the truck in for sevice I am sure that they will want to do some $500 service package for 30Kmiles and resist just doing the brake fluid change.
I have had many cars over the years and don't ever remember this being required.
Is this a really important service? Is it easy to perform?
If I take the truck in for sevice I am sure that they will want to do some $500 service package for 30Kmiles and resist just doing the brake fluid change.
#2
Lexus Champion
Brake fluid change appears to be a requirement for Toyota/Lexus every 30K miles. Like you, I never had to change brake fluid in any of my previous cars. Never a problem.
#3
Originally Posted by sveet
I do most of my own service on my RX330, but one item I don't think I can tackle is the brake fuild replacement, that is recommended at 30K miles.
I have had many cars over the years and don't ever remember this being required.
Is this a really important service? Is it easy to perform?
If I take the truck in for sevice I am sure that they will want to do some $500 service package for 30Kmiles and resist just doing the brake fluid change.
I have had many cars over the years and don't ever remember this being required.
Is this a really important service? Is it easy to perform?
If I take the truck in for sevice I am sure that they will want to do some $500 service package for 30Kmiles and resist just doing the brake fluid change.
Brake fluid is the most ignored fluid. People care so much about engine oil, but frankly, I would prefer my engine die on me than my brake die on me - just my $0.02. You can read this link and decide yourself.
Brake Fluid 101
#4
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You can avoid that by doing brake fluid flush. Old brake fluid turns corrosive and damages several brake components. Have to replace those components is the problem you face unknowingly if you do not flush the fluid periodically!!
#5
Brake fluid is alcohol based and is a hygroscopic (spelling) fluid, which means it draws moisture out of the air. Since the system needs to be opened to vent, moisture is almost always present. The fluid pulls in moisture and once enough is absorb it starts to deposit the moisture inside the lines and pistons, causing failures.
I don't really "flush" my fluid but more rather to change out the fluid in the master cylinder every 15K miles. There is enough recycling in and out of the master cylinder to keep everything clean.
Hope that helps.
-Bill
I don't really "flush" my fluid but more rather to change out the fluid in the master cylinder every 15K miles. There is enough recycling in and out of the master cylinder to keep everything clean.
Hope that helps.
-Bill
#6
Moderator
Bill_gs3, the most contaminated fluid in my observation has been in the piston chamber. So I woudl suggest get a buddy to help and flush them out at each wheel.
With a turkey baster, draw out the fluid from the master cylender and discard. Dont be too agressive and leave some at the bottom. Fill with fresh brake fluid.
With a buddy pump the brake and hold, while you reach down and open the drain nozzle of the wheel nearest to the master cylender. Let the brake pedal sink but do not let up the foot till you tighten the drain nozzle. Monitor the level in the master cylender and make sure it does not fall below 1/2 and fill with fresh fluid. Pump and drain enough times till the drained fluid is nice and clear like fresh.
Repeat process, but shift to the wheel which is 2nd and then 3rd and then the farthest.
Note: If you were to bleed for air in the brake hydraulics, you would start from the farthest to the nearest. For flush I have listed the reverse. By doing this, you minimize the old fluid getting into the closer slave cylenders. Farhtest to closest will work fine as well.
tip: Try using 6sided socket instead of 12sided.
Salim
With a turkey baster, draw out the fluid from the master cylender and discard. Dont be too agressive and leave some at the bottom. Fill with fresh brake fluid.
With a buddy pump the brake and hold, while you reach down and open the drain nozzle of the wheel nearest to the master cylender. Let the brake pedal sink but do not let up the foot till you tighten the drain nozzle. Monitor the level in the master cylender and make sure it does not fall below 1/2 and fill with fresh fluid. Pump and drain enough times till the drained fluid is nice and clear like fresh.
Repeat process, but shift to the wheel which is 2nd and then 3rd and then the farthest.
Note: If you were to bleed for air in the brake hydraulics, you would start from the farthest to the nearest. For flush I have listed the reverse. By doing this, you minimize the old fluid getting into the closer slave cylenders. Farhtest to closest will work fine as well.
tip: Try using 6sided socket instead of 12sided.
Salim
#7
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Used a power type brake bleeder & change fluid. Used quit a bit of fluid but wanted to get all the old fluid out. I too, have never done this before but it does make sence. Just make sure u use a top quality fluid, I used a synthetic.
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