Driver seat wearing out already at 3500 miles
06-06-07, 11:58 AM
#31
That's why I just did a conditioning today....once every 2 weeks should help.
06-07-07, 06:16 AM
#33
Moderator
It would be inevitable if no care were taken to condition and preserve the leather.
Cracking in leather comes from dryness. Left on its own, leather will dry out. Even a semi-annual application of a good (spend some money) leather conditioner will add moisture and other elements that will keep the leather soft.
I have been doing this on the white leather interior of my convertible for 6 years, and the leather seats, exposed to lots of direct sunlight, show no signs of wear or wrinkles or cracks.
Death is the only thing really inevitable, but you can speed that up, too, by poor maintenance.
Cracking in leather comes from dryness. Left on its own, leather will dry out. Even a semi-annual application of a good (spend some money) leather conditioner will add moisture and other elements that will keep the leather soft.
I have been doing this on the white leather interior of my convertible for 6 years, and the leather seats, exposed to lots of direct sunlight, show no signs of wear or wrinkles or cracks.
Death is the only thing really inevitable, but you can speed that up, too, by poor maintenance.
06-07-07, 07:50 AM
#34
Out of Warranty
Brylcreem had one significant packaging "defect" back in the day - the tube looked exactly like Colgate toothpaste to those of us not in full command of our faculties at 5am. Wonder how many other bleary-eyed people brushed their teeth with it? That was a mistake you'd make only once! 
I had a tip from a restorer of antique cars about Armorall on tires. He said to cut the "wet look" shine (anathema to a dedicated classic buff) and simply turn the tires back to an inky flat black, cut the Armorall 1:1 with water. It saves money and your tires look brand new - not waxed and buffed to a high gloss. It works!
For leather care, try some old fashioned saddle soap, available practically anywhere shoe polish is sold. I've kept my hides soft and supple for years with it - both in the car and on furniture. Not bad stuff for your hands, either - unlike a lot of cleaners . . .
I had a tip from a restorer of antique cars about Armorall on tires. He said to cut the "wet look" shine (anathema to a dedicated classic buff) and simply turn the tires back to an inky flat black, cut the Armorall 1:1 with water. It saves money and your tires look brand new - not waxed and buffed to a high gloss. It works!
For leather care, try some old fashioned saddle soap, available practically anywhere shoe polish is sold. I've kept my hides soft and supple for years with it - both in the car and on furniture. Not bad stuff for your hands, either - unlike a lot of cleaners . . .
06-07-07, 12:13 PM
#35
Lexus Test Driver
leather wrinkling is inevitable in a SUV. Unlike a sports car which seats low, you have to climb onto the seat and slide into it. Having a running board helps a little bit. The trick is to jump on to the seat and not slide into it, some people might find that physical impossible.
06-08-07, 11:51 AM
#37
Wish I had air suspension.....but I do not think it lowers enough, step bar would be better...if it looks OEM...
06-14-07, 11:49 AM
#40
06-17-07, 08:51 AM
#42
Lexus Test Driver
I've started using the Lexus cleaner and conditioner. My dealer used to sell Lexol but switched to the Lexus product when it became available and dropped the Lexol line. I like it better than the Lexol. It has a moderate amount of slip to it that I think the Lexol lacks. I used to mix the Lexol and Turtle Wax leather conditioner together.The Turtle Wax product is very slippery, but I never liked the scent of it too much.
06-17-07, 09:11 AM
#43
Zymol leather cleaner and then conditioner work for me.
06-22-07, 05:21 AM
#45