M_Murrell

Wow! - 35 lbs. for an oil drain plug. Do as you please; I wouldn't go much over 12-15. Just my 2 cents.

And to add to rxdriver's point about several filter numbers being available.....

I purchased an '04 Toyota Tacoma truck in that same year. At first oil change, I removed part # 90915-20003. Went to the Toyota dealer and was sold part # 08922-02011. Was told it replaced 90915-20003. 2nd oil change - back to the dealer for new filter - this time I'm sold part # 90915-YZZD1. Was told it replaced 08922-02011. I left the dealership light-headed.

Did some digging and learned the following:

- Engine was assembled in Japan with filter 90915-20003 - Toyota dealer can special order this "factory" filter.

- 08922-02011 is made in U. S. by Purolator

- 90915-YZZD1 is made by Denso. One story has it made in Japan; the other in Thailand. Either way, It's a an Asian filter. Toyota dealer told me that on any given day, they will have either 08922-02011 or 90915-YZZD1 in stock. It just depends on what was on the shelf at the distribution center when they placed their order.

Summation: 90915-20003 / 08922-02011 / 90915-YZZD1 are interchangeable.

Rufus

Tammy - My Lexus parts counter person tells me they use the same drain plug seal for their whole product line, which leads me to believe the specified tightening torque is also the same throughout.

Is my understanding correct that the 35 ft-lb figure you quote is from a Lexus factory manual?

Thanks,
Bob S.

Tammy

When using a new gasket seal. It's being first time compressed or formed to the sealing surfaces.
A little less (30FtLb) if it's a reused one.

I would be fine with anything tighter than 15 Ft Lb...

I grease my seal and the threads, so I lower the torque to 30 FtLbs. for "ease to remember".

The thing is too tight (40Ft Lb) will crack the new dry stock Lexus type seal and causes it to leak !

Rufus

So is 35 ft -lb the torque recommended by the factory?

Thanks,
Bob S.

P.S. Sorry to be such a nit picker, but I'm a retired automotive engineer who's compulsive about properly tightening fasteners.....

Tammy

Yes, thirty five foot pounds.

Grumpa72

It is a well known industry standard that adding grease, oil, lube or any other lubricating substance to a bolt or screw that is torqued is asking for trouble. By adding anything to the bolt, you risk shearing the bolt or stripping the nut that it goes into since the torque measurement is no longer accurate. I used to have web site for something like the national organization for standards in bolts, nuts, etc. They had a great discussion of bolt size, grade, and torque specs. In that discussion, they talked about lubricating bolts.

Gary

sfsvettes

Thank you for this valuable info that the owners manual does not cover
Thanks Again

Booyah

Ive never ever torqued a oil drain bolt in my oil changing driving life, which has been 22 years and no problems

xfirechief

Agree with u 100%. Change the oil & tighten the plug since the early 60's & never a problem.

ekim1

^I'm with you guys, as long as it doesn't leak it's all good

Lexmex

I don't torque either. If I find it is leaking (as I sometimes do with the tranny drain plug), I tighten it a bit more.

cdnewton

FYI, it is a tight fit, but you can reach the filter from the top of the vehicle and take it out in front of the radiator. Replacement is the reverse. I let the vehicle drain the oil for awhile so I don't burn myself on the manifold.

Lextranny

I have changed oil myself over 30 years and never torque the drain bolt. No problems here!!

CK6Speed

iTrader: (1)

I torque mine down. While I would agree that not torquing it probably will not cause a leak unless it was really loose, the reason why I torque mine down is to avoid over tightening it and possibly stripping the oil pan. I have seen many over torqued drain bolts in my time from friend's cars, and even cars that came back from the dealer. I've known of a few people that have stripped the oil pan due to over tightening it. A friend that used to work for Toyota had re-tapped or replaced many oil pans due to it stripping the threads in the drain hole during his employment there. Basically for me, I have a torque wrench so I use it for uniformity. I always know the next time I remove my oil drain bolt it will be easy and not stuck because it is the same torque setting as always.

One pet peeve I have is when bolts and even the oil filter is over torqued. Even the dealers over torques the oil filter sometimes. Many times even with my oil filter removal tool it was difficult to remove. When I change the oil filter myself, I don't torque it down with a tool, but I do hand tighten it to a feel that I have learned over the years works well with my strength. I have never had an oil filter leak, and I have never had any trouble removing it the next time.

gtcguy

RX-300. the oil filter is in front under the exhaust manifold. I usually get at it from the top. Also removing half the screws from the left side of the plastic underneath is OK. Pay attention, there are 3 diffferent types of screws on our 2001. I use rose, garden gloves. They are thin in the fingers and have long leather cuffs for the hot exhaust manifold.

We also have a SC-430, and 4runner V8 which use a larger filter which fits the RX. I buy all the filters at Toyota and use on all 3 cars. Last time the cost was less than $5 each.

I like wix filters and will use wix if they start making the larger filter. So far Wix lists the smaller RX filter for the SC and 4 runner v8's.