NO Oil change in more than 9 months..
06-28-07, 06:44 PM
#16
As I posted before, levels of acid neutraliation additives in dino oil are often too low before 5K is reached because xmz-fe engines' hot cam head temperature. If you don't believe me, send a 5w-30 used dino oil sample to a lab and read TBN and viscosity results, you will see what I am talking about.
06-29-07, 05:31 AM
#17
I am changing @ 4k, as of today!
06-29-07, 05:38 AM
#18
Lexus Test Driver
I always change my oil between 3 to 4K or 6 months, but I dont drive alot of miles, so its easy. I use to drive 20K a year, I used synthetic oil and change it every 5K to 6K miles.
06-29-07, 06:11 AM
#19
Super Moderator
For other folks that do not believe when I say 5K on dino, 7.5K on synthetic is too long for 3mz-fe. This RX330 owner used Mobil 1 5w-30 Extended Performance oil that is supposed to go 15K miles (e.g. beefier additives pack than the regular Mobil 1). He barely get out of 7-8K out of the oil. If he used the Mobil 1 5w30, oil is depleted before 7k for sure.
By contrast, the top-rated synthetics--Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Motul, etc--are all made from Group IV or sometimes Group V (synthetic Ester) base stocks. These are the TRUE synthetics, and in many cases carry only a very small premium over Group III-based oils such as the "synthetics" from Mobil, Castrol, Penzoil, etc.
06-29-07, 10:34 AM
#20
Just a note, most grades of Mobil 1 (including all grades of Extended Performance) are NOT a true synthetic. Their base is Group III, which is a modified or hydrocracked mineral (dino) oil. To this a VERY small amount of Group IV or PAO (synthetic) oil is added. In the US, however, it is perfectly legal (due to a court decision) to refer to the much less-expensive Group III as synthetic. In most other countries it is not.
By contrast, the top-rated synthetics--Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Motul, etc--are all made from Group IV or sometimes Group V (synthetic Ester) base stocks. These are the TRUE synthetics, and in many cases carry only a very small premium over Group III-based oils such as the "synthetics" from Mobil, Castrol, Penzoil, etc.
By contrast, the top-rated synthetics--Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Motul, etc--are all made from Group IV or sometimes Group V (synthetic Ester) base stocks. These are the TRUE synthetics, and in many cases carry only a very small premium over Group III-based oils such as the "synthetics" from Mobil, Castrol, Penzoil, etc.
As for me, I use German Castrol and Mobil 1 0w-20 SL oil. Both are PAO based. In case of M1 0w-20, it is formulated before the Mobile's alleged decision to use Group III last year.
06-30-07, 03:53 PM
#22
Driver School Candidate
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Go Mobil 1 for 8000 total.
Change the filter and add 1 qt only at 4000 and change the oil at 8000.
Did this on most of my cars. Had a 94 MX6 LS V6 and did this method and it now has 200000 miles. I sold it to my sons buddy who thinks it is the Fast and Furious and races it all the time. It still runs fairly good, he tells me how he shifts at 7000 rpm all the time. I think that is a good testamant to doing this?
There is also study out there that they took Mobil 1 and ran it I believe for 25000 miles without changing it. This was no bias test by the way. They said that when they change the filter and added the quart the quart re-upped the detergents and so forth and actually the oil did was better than new. The conclusion was that the base oil did not break down it was all the additives that did. But by adding the new quart every 3000 miles it restored them the additives and the 25000 miles would be fine to do.
It is not a time thing it is a mileage thing!
Change the filter and add 1 qt only at 4000 and change the oil at 8000.
Did this on most of my cars. Had a 94 MX6 LS V6 and did this method and it now has 200000 miles. I sold it to my sons buddy who thinks it is the Fast and Furious and races it all the time. It still runs fairly good, he tells me how he shifts at 7000 rpm all the time. I think that is a good testamant to doing this?
There is also study out there that they took Mobil 1 and ran it I believe for 25000 miles without changing it. This was no bias test by the way. They said that when they change the filter and added the quart the quart re-upped the detergents and so forth and actually the oil did was better than new. The conclusion was that the base oil did not break down it was all the additives that did. But by adding the new quart every 3000 miles it restored them the additives and the 25000 miles would be fine to do.
It is not a time thing it is a mileage thing!
07-02-07, 01:26 PM
#23
That's the 1st I have heard of, replace filter mid-way and add a Quart. Means 2 filters per oil change? I have been changing oil for a long time, this is the 1st I have come across this.
07-05-07, 11:31 AM
#24
Lexus Test Driver
That was advertisment from Amesoil. They say you can save money by changing just your filter and topping off. Personally, if I were going to change the filter, might as well do the oil too. With synthetic, you can go a little longer between oil changes, but 25000 miles is a big no no.
07-05-07, 12:07 PM
#25
I am with you....4.5K oil changes, the way to go with dino oil.
07-05-07, 12:32 PM
#26
Major benefits are environmental friendly and less wear on the engine. Yes, if you let oil age a little, wear metal in PPM will decrease per 1000 miles driven. This is no BS, see below results from lab reports.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html is a link for an independent study result, using Used Oil Analysis reports. Keep in mind this study is for older formulation of Mobil 1 on a LS-1 engine.
Topping up the crankcase is a critical component of extended oil change intervals, and frequent filter changes are most likely the key to extreme-length intervals. The cumulative effect of even minor top-ups, let alone a filter change, substantially increases the longevity of the oil.
Engine wear actually decreases as oil ages. This has also been substantiated in testing conducted by Ford Motor Co. and ConocoPhillips, and reported in SAE Technical Paper 2003-01-3119. What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine's oil get some age on it.
07-05-07, 12:59 PM
#27
Wow, looks convincing to me. Replace filter and top off every 4k. And on 8k replace oil and filter. Worth a try.
07-05-07, 01:21 PM
#28
Be very careful with xmz-fe engines, be conservative. I do my own UOA just to make sure. I posted one in the maintenance forum, but I caution not to apply my result to everyone else, again be conservative.
If you wants to make sure what is good for you, spend $20 to get a report for you driving style and favorite oil...
Last edited by TunedRX300; 07-05-07 at 04:58 PM.
07-05-07, 01:34 PM
#29
Can you give me the details of where to send the oil for analysis? And any recommended intervals I should try? Thanks.
07-05-07, 02:18 PM
#30
You may send your used oil sample to either Blackstone Labs or Oil Analyzer. For $20 to $30. a lab will give you spectrum analysis of wear metals and Total Base Number. It is not hard to learn to read them and if you can save one oil change, you break even. More importantly, you gain information for your driving style and your car. For example, if your drain interval is too long, the lab will tell you to shorten up to a recommendated mileage.
The link I provided above actually did not report very positively Amsoil's oil. So not all people doing UOAs are Amsoil dealers.
The link I provided above actually did not report very positively Amsoil's oil. So not all people doing UOAs are Amsoil dealers.