Dealer-applied paint sealant
#1
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I bought a 2009 RX 350 yesterday and before writing the check I was hit w/ all the additional warranties, services, extra protection, etc., which I always tend to view with great suspicion. I declined evreything, but am now thinking about adding the copolymer paint sealant, which is warranted for 5 yrs against every paint threat known to man. Costs $600 for the RX.
Has anyone done this, is is worth it? Do you really only have to wax once a year? I'm also doing the 3M clear mask, given what I've read on this forum.
Matt
1988 Porsche Carrera
2004 BMW 330i
2009 RX 350
Has anyone done this, is is worth it? Do you really only have to wax once a year? I'm also doing the 3M clear mask, given what I've read on this forum.
Matt
1988 Porsche Carrera
2004 BMW 330i
2009 RX 350
#4
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paint sealant last for a year based on my experiences...is it worth it? yes...is it worth $600? no
get some sealant from your local auto store and apply it like wax...save yourself some money
get some sealant from your local auto store and apply it like wax...save yourself some money
#5
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Worthless.
Car bra as mentioned above is better. I know because I have to repaint my bumper because of bug tar (won't be for a while) and even my uncle had applied something as was mentioned but he cautioned me against letting bug tar sit (from my trip over from Mexico), so it still requires being vigilant.
Car bra as mentioned above is better. I know because I have to repaint my bumper because of bug tar (won't be for a while) and even my uncle had applied something as was mentioned but he cautioned me against letting bug tar sit (from my trip over from Mexico), so it still requires being vigilant.
#6
Lexus Champion
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As kaydee mentioned,a dealer attempt to make more money off of you.No wax,or paint sealant on the market lasts more than a few month`s.
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#8
Out of Warranty
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I sprung for the "Polyglycoat" treatment on my first Suburban. It was fire engine red and I figured prone to fading. It cost something like $400 (in 1982) and included an "interior treatment" that was probably just sprayed on. I can't say it didn't work - the finish was as good as a domestic truck gets, with a deep gloss that responded well to waxing every six months. Remember, this vehicle was HUGE and a wax job consumed a full day.
After three years I remembered the "treatment" came with a bottle of "restorer" compound, so rather than wax that spring, I got out the bottle and read the directions. Uh-oh.
Like most waxes it said to work on a small area at a time. Small in this case was a six-inch square. It meant every word. If you tried to cover a larger area, it simply dried up and almost needed a cold chisel to remove. The only thing that would take off the dried Polyglycoat was another application or two. You can imagine the frustration - not to mention the pain of spending four consectutive days in the garage putting this treatment on the car from about 10am to midnight every day.
When finished, the surface looked showroom new. And true to the guarantee, it remained so (with occasional waxing) for a couple more years. Later I discovered that there were several "poly" products that were used as an alternative to Carnauba waxes that outperformed the "natural" material. The drawback to these products is that they are difficult to repair, not easily removed by conventional solvents when repainting.
Before using any of these products, a little research might be in order. You may be saving a bit of labor initially, but believe me, you will pay for it later. Applying and removing about a half-acre of that stuff is not a job for the timid. Had I known what I was in for, I would probably have quit after the first day, and finished the job with another product.
For my money, a good claybar, light polish, and carnauba wax is a difficult combination to beat. Check out CL's Detailing Forum for more information from the real experts: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/automotive-care-and-detailing-122/
After three years I remembered the "treatment" came with a bottle of "restorer" compound, so rather than wax that spring, I got out the bottle and read the directions. Uh-oh.
Like most waxes it said to work on a small area at a time. Small in this case was a six-inch square. It meant every word. If you tried to cover a larger area, it simply dried up and almost needed a cold chisel to remove. The only thing that would take off the dried Polyglycoat was another application or two. You can imagine the frustration - not to mention the pain of spending four consectutive days in the garage putting this treatment on the car from about 10am to midnight every day.
When finished, the surface looked showroom new. And true to the guarantee, it remained so (with occasional waxing) for a couple more years. Later I discovered that there were several "poly" products that were used as an alternative to Carnauba waxes that outperformed the "natural" material. The drawback to these products is that they are difficult to repair, not easily removed by conventional solvents when repainting.
Before using any of these products, a little research might be in order. You may be saving a bit of labor initially, but believe me, you will pay for it later. Applying and removing about a half-acre of that stuff is not a job for the timid. Had I known what I was in for, I would probably have quit after the first day, and finished the job with another product.
For my money, a good claybar, light polish, and carnauba wax is a difficult combination to beat. Check out CL's Detailing Forum for more information from the real experts: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/automotive-care-and-detailing-122/
#9
Lexus Test Driver
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When I used to work for a dealership long ago, paint sealant was literally over the counter paint sealant that anyone could buy. Okay, so the dealership used to buy whatever bottle the distributer used to come around and sell that month, but it was really no different than any off the shelf product you can get for $10-$20 a bottle. They charged about $300-$400 for this and we had to apply it just like wax. For the interior cloth protection, we literally sprayed scotch guard. They charged something like $200 or something for this. This was a Honda dealership.
Anyway, I would skip the dealer paint protection UNLESS that are guarantee against paint chipping (Which they probably aren't). Then go to a detail shop and ask them to give you a nice coat of paint sealant and a detail job for $100-$200 and you'd be much better off. Probably will be cheaper since the car is brand new and you wont really need a detail job, just the sealant.
Anyway, I would skip the dealer paint protection UNLESS that are guarantee against paint chipping (Which they probably aren't). Then go to a detail shop and ask them to give you a nice coat of paint sealant and a detail job for $100-$200 and you'd be much better off. Probably will be cheaper since the car is brand new and you wont really need a detail job, just the sealant.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
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Its just a expensive wax job, but it does work. I have it on my Lexus and the finish is still in showroom condition after 2 years and I have never wax it. I knew make so much profit on those thing that I talk them down to the price of $250. When I pick up my new car, I touch the compare the finish to another new car that was wax and ready for another customer, the Teflon sealent had a much smoother finish.
#14
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The paint sealant is stupid for more reasons than one. Before you seal or wax a car it should be at least clayed to rid the paint pores of all contaminants. There is so much crap that gets into the pores and on the paint and then they just seal it all in. Pay someone to detail your vehicle and then twice a year apply a good quality sealer and put your $600.00 towards that and you will be good for many many years. Getting the 3m deal that is protecting against a whole other issue.