Struts questions
#1
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Struts questions
Our 330 2WD has almost 100K on the clock. It was in for new brake pads (I had rotors ready but it turned -no pun intended- out they weren't needed) and was told that, although not leaking, the struts needed replacing as they were the likely cause of the cupping/feathering present on the inner tread of the tires (which was causing an unpleasant hum while driving).
1. Does that sound reasonable?
2. I see both KYB strut inserts and entire housings online. Which do I need?
3. The mechanic said an alignment would not be necessary after installing new struts. True?
4 Given the mileage, should I also do the tower mounts while I'm at it?
Thanks.
1. Does that sound reasonable?
2. I see both KYB strut inserts and entire housings online. Which do I need?
3. The mechanic said an alignment would not be necessary after installing new struts. True?
4 Given the mileage, should I also do the tower mounts while I'm at it?
Thanks.
#2
Super Moderator
Supposing this happened to me (and I had shock issues and tire issues when I lived in Mexico all the time), I'd check your tire pressure first and then also do an alignment and see what readings you get (they give you a printout) and how much they are off from normal before I'd even think about getting shocks or doing other work.
I always got an alignment after doing shock/strut work, luckily it was dirt cheap when I lived in Mexico for a 4 wheel alignment on a Hunter machine, $5 since I knew the owner, but other places would go about $15 and Toyota went about $40.
I always got an alignment after doing shock/strut work, luckily it was dirt cheap when I lived in Mexico for a 4 wheel alignment on a Hunter machine, $5 since I knew the owner, but other places would go about $15 and Toyota went about $40.
#4
Super Moderator
However, I have done inserts on a single shock of which I had issues as noted in this youtube video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hUYf2qBKHU but that was a modified insert from a Pathfinder (since I was south of the border at the time).
On 4, I have a different viewpoint on this just from experience, but that's because of where I used to live.
Here is the link from L-Tuned Parts site, a CL vendor, to the suspension components for the front, http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
For the fronts, I'd get the spring seat (10), the dust shield (if torn) (9) and definitely the bumper piece (8). Now you see the 7 piece, the spring insulator. That gets worn out. But what I did (see that thread I did above for my own RX300) is use some plastic hosing that's not going to get torn up like this rubber.
This going to sound complex. Now, I should you tell you that on my own, I didn't replace the dust shield nor the spring seat. With both, they had taken a hard life down in Mexico City, but they had already been compressed to a point (without cracking) from my own observation and that of my uncle that we wouldn't need to replace it (it just really couldn't get much worse from that point) and I had to consider the fact that if I got new ones they'd be eventually get worn down and there would be some jiggle or play in them once the new ones got compressed (from the shocks going up and down all the time). Thus, I won't have to worry for a long time about any jiggling or playing by keeping these existing piece. A unique issue in my case alone.
However, in your own vehicle, do replace these if you don't plan on keeping your RX until the next millennium like I am.
and for the rear, http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
Do get the bumper piece, that's number 8. I also skipped on the strut mount, because of the compression issue I mentioned on my front ones, same issue on the back. I don't know that U.S. roads take there toll on the rear strut mount as much as they do on the piece on the front (because there is more weight there with engine and driver). I'd probably let these be and save yourself some money unless you plan on keeping the vehicle for a lot longer period of time.
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