Oil drain plug torque setting
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I dont have the manual for 330, but typically the range is 28~30lb-ft for various Lexus.
Make sure, you use a new crush washer, with a drop of oil on both flat surfaces. [also make sure the old, washer is removed .... some how in the SC the washer always remains attached to the pan for me].
In a pinch, you can re-use the old washer and tighten by feel only. If you have the wrench, then do use it ... there is plenty of clearance and you eliminate a the possibility of stripping the threads. [the primary reason for stripped threads is cross threading and not over-tightening].
Salim
5,4,3,2,1
Make sure, you use a new crush washer, with a drop of oil on both flat surfaces. [also make sure the old, washer is removed .... some how in the SC the washer always remains attached to the pan for me].
In a pinch, you can re-use the old washer and tighten by feel only. If you have the wrench, then do use it ... there is plenty of clearance and you eliminate a the possibility of stripping the threads. [the primary reason for stripped threads is cross threading and not over-tightening].
Salim
5,4,3,2,1
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Use a socket w/o the wrench until you can't 'finger tighten' any more, then use the wrench and turn it 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Getting the appropriate torque for an oil drain plug is a waste of effort.
+1 on the washer... or get yourself one of these. The one for our vehicles (or any Toyota) is the F-103 or F-103N. I have one on my truck and it's great. I'll be putting one on my wife's RX when I change her oil in 3k more miles.
+1 on the washer... or get yourself one of these. The one for our vehicles (or any Toyota) is the F-103 or F-103N. I have one on my truck and it's great. I'll be putting one on my wife's RX when I change her oil in 3k more miles.
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Use a socket w/o the wrench until you can't 'finger tighten' any more, then use the wrench and turn it 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Getting the appropriate torque for an oil drain plug is a waste of effort.
+1 on the washer... or get yourself one of these. The one for our vehicles (or any Toyota) is the F-103 or F-103N. I have one on my truck and it's great. I'll be putting one on my wife's RX when I change her oil in 3k more miles.
+1 on the washer... or get yourself one of these. The one for our vehicles (or any Toyota) is the F-103 or F-103N. I have one on my truck and it's great. I'll be putting one on my wife's RX when I change her oil in 3k more miles.
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How much are those oil drain valves?
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$23 for a ball valve....I might need to do some investigating. I will check on regular fluid valves. Might not be as compact though.
But must change over to this type of drain. MUST. Trying to not get oil all over the place will be a giner....thanks.
But must change over to this type of drain. MUST. Trying to not get oil all over the place will be a giner....thanks.
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IMO - Some of the advantages of this one are that it fits the drain-hole exactly, and it can come w/ the nipple for a hose attachment. Plus, it's made to hang under a car... it's not easy to open the valve, which would keep debris from knocking it open. (This doesn't matter a whole lot for the RX b/c it has the brush guard anyway, but it's pretty useful for my truck.)
With that said, let us know if you can find a less-expensive alternative. I have about 4k miles before I need one to install on the RX.
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Not just a ball valve. The mechanism is designed to prevent accidentally triggering the valve if it hits something. It is, after all, on the underside of your vehicle where it can come into contact with obstructions.
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In our case, the valve is covered by the undercover plastic. Good for us but for those exposed, different story. Ball valve has the same shut off as the one depicted. But probably has a lock.
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