08 RX350 - Oil Filter Cover "welded" shut?
#17
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Thanks for your responses guys.
Txt: Did you damage the housing or the housing attach points (where the housing bolts to the crankcase) when you got it off with the breaker bar? My mechanic was afraid to use brute force in loosening the housing, because he said that he would stress/break the engine itself.
To all: Is there anyone who can answer this? Will I damage the engine/crankcase if I use a large breaker bar to literally force the cartridge housing open?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer this. I love this car, and wouldn't want to damage it at all. On the other hand, I am fairly disgusted with the animal who overtightened this 5,000 miles ago.
Txt: Did you damage the housing or the housing attach points (where the housing bolts to the crankcase) when you got it off with the breaker bar? My mechanic was afraid to use brute force in loosening the housing, because he said that he would stress/break the engine itself.
To all: Is there anyone who can answer this? Will I damage the engine/crankcase if I use a large breaker bar to literally force the cartridge housing open?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer this. I love this car, and wouldn't want to damage it at all. On the other hand, I am fairly disgusted with the animal who overtightened this 5,000 miles ago.
You can always take the vehicle back to the old mechanic or leave it with the dealer.
Salim
#18
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I used the breaker bar and the 1/2 inch socket and the TOY640 tool to remove the large housing that held the paper filter.
When I turned the housing with breaker bar, I was worried that I would damage the oil crankcase.
So I made sure the TOY640 was snugly attached to the housing then I turned the breaker bar SLOWLY and used just enough force to overcome the resistance.
For me, the small 3/8 inch nut was easy to loosen.
If you had trouble with the 3/8 inch nut, maybe you could tighten the filter housing more so it won't spin and then use more force to get the 3/8 inch nut off.
When I turned the housing with breaker bar, I was worried that I would damage the oil crankcase.
So I made sure the TOY640 was snugly attached to the housing then I turned the breaker bar SLOWLY and used just enough force to overcome the resistance.
For me, the small 3/8 inch nut was easy to loosen.
If you had trouble with the 3/8 inch nut, maybe you could tighten the filter housing more so it won't spin and then use more force to get the 3/8 inch nut off.
Last edited by txt; 07-16-10 at 02:19 PM.
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I believe it's the main cartridge housing that we're wrestling with. The mechanic had the correct wrench/fitting, and it wasn't slipping. He had a good solid grip on the filter housing, but he was simply afraid to force it, for fear of damaging the engine and/or cartridge housing.
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txt: Thanks for the description of what you did. It was very helpful. Your post, unfortunately, was cut-off after "Make sure the..."
Could I trouble you to continue that thought? Much appreciated.
Could I trouble you to continue that thought? Much appreciated.
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Thanks. I'm leaning towards having (begging, actually) my local guy to use the brute force/physics method. If he refuses for fear of breaking something, I'll bring it to the dealership. I don't think I will ever go back to the local shop that overtightened it 5,000 miles ago.
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Here is the DIY oil change procedure with PICTURES. The GS350 and RX350 are done the same way. The old spin off type oil filter went away, starting with the 2007 model year.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-pictures.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-pictures.html
#23
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i wonder if the old mechanic torqued on the filter HAHA. I always hand tighten my filters... they dont need to be that tight. make sure if you DIY oil change to lube the rubber seal on the opening of the filter before you screw it on though, I've had 1 occurrence where my friend's filter flew off while driving and spewed oil everywhere when he didnt do this....
#24
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I hope your mechanic didn't use WD40 as a penetrating solution. The two best penetrants, hands down, are Kroil and PB Blaster. Both are exceptional at creeping into threads whereas WD40 is half baked at it and even that is being generous. imo!
This isn't just my opinion but that found in many garages and restoration shops, especially those that deal with old bolts and screws that need to be removed in order to restore a classic vehicle.
This isn't just my opinion but that found in many garages and restoration shops, especially those that deal with old bolts and screws that need to be removed in order to restore a classic vehicle.
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Thanks. I'm leaning towards having (begging, actually) my local guy to use the brute force/physics method. If he refuses for fear of breaking something, I'll bring it to the dealership. I don't think I will ever go back to the local shop that overtightened it 5,000 miles ago.
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#28
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Try to break it loose while it is hot, that might help. Also, Kroils is great but I would do it at night, let it sit and then give it a go in the morning. Hope the threads aren't screwed up from putting it on crooked.
Your mechanic is responsible for this so it might also be a good idea to let him screw it up so he has to fix it, if he is honest and reputible that is.
Your mechanic is responsible for this so it might also be a good idea to let him screw it up so he has to fix it, if he is honest and reputible that is.