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The pain about my local Lexus dealer is they make you give them your VIN# before they will look up parts & availability, so I'll bring my registration in with me. lol
I will use either OEM or WIX. The NAPA filters are made by WIX and are therefore easy to pickup in single or quantity as needed. They too have available both a short and a long version of the oil filter needed by my 2004 RX330. I use the long edition as it is only 20 cents more.
The Napa part numbers for the Premium Wix filter for the RX330 is 1348 for the standard short oil filter and 1516 for the longer higher capacity oil filter, which also fits.
I Hope this Helps!
However do not do what I did (lol), I bought a case of them (for the SC, RX and IS) and10 years later, I still have a bunch, especially if the cars are not getting used as much due to Covid, plus I retired so minimal driving. So I may have to sell the excess oil filters...
I would trust any high quality filter. I feel oem quality in filtration products isn’t the pinnacle. But definitely a good baseline. Don’t go cheaper than oem but if you can splurge a little go with mobile 1, k&n or even royal purple. They are just superior quality filters. Wiz/ Napa gold is also up there
Oh wow.
Thank you for posting this cuz now I'm throwing away the "toyota" oil filters I bought on fleabay.
I also had an engine tick twice and thankfully seafoam oil treatment cured it both times using it full bottle per treatment in the oil.
Makes me wonder how much damage I did to the engine.
I'll be buying a fram or whatever ya'll say is good and stop buyng stuff like this online.
Oh wow.
Thank you for posting this cuz now I'm throwing away the "toyota" oil filters I bought on fleabay.
I also had an engine tick twice and thankfully seafoam oil treatment cured it both times using it full bottle per treatment in the oil.
Makes me wonder how much damage I did to the engine.
I'll be buying a fram or whatever ya'll say is good and stop buyng stuff like this online.
ive seen lots of people buy aisin timing kits on flea bay and Amazon and they don’t have the embossed “aisin” mark on them so I just think the best thing to do is to go with Mobil one, k and n wix and the higher end Fram
filters should also be ok
I don't know what to say except the paper, which appears to be one thick single-ply, is still quite rigid; not mushy or soft. I like the O-rings that come with this filter, too. They are a little thicker than the ones you get with the Toyota filter.
mobil 1 is the best and easily avaible. mobil 1 filter + 0w-40 oil, you only need to change every 1 year/10k miles, proved by Toyota
Maybe if those were all highway miles and no towing. My father did yearly but only with low mileage vacation house vehicle. I would not run even a supplied alternative weight oil without a specific reason. There is always a trade off - like you protect your rings but get less to your valves. There is no free lunch either. Your engine is optimally protected or it is less so depending on wear of oil. Like trailer hitches that are supposed to alter the tongue weight ( garbage because you can’t change physics with a gimmick). I would be wary of trusting the setup you are running without analyzing if the oil is still offering adequate protection past 7K, 8k….?
Over the years I have had a lot of experience with filtration. A couple things that I've learned is that the engine engineer has designed the oil system based on many parameters. It is very important that the flow be correct, the pressure on the pressure relief valve is close to the OEM spec and you make sure you change the filter regularily. The length and the diameter is not that important, the filter needs to fit the opening well and be away for other components so if viabration or whatever happens it does not hit things around the filter. The gasket must fit the base plate. It is really tough to judge a filter based on appearance, I agree the fram filter looks very good, the top and bottom pleats was well sealed, the paper looks great and the seam in the paper looks effective. Other filters can also be effective even though they might not look as good. Extended oil change periods are the toughest on the filter, that is when the bypass valve should open and basically make the filter ineffective but that valve saves the engine so the oil flows properly. I've been surprise how different mfg vary on the pressure of the bypass valve, I presume their engineers are comfortable with the higher or lower pressure.
For the price diffence OEM seems to be the best to me. If OEM was $50 and the aftermarket price was $10, I think I would move towards the others. Were I live the new 0-16 synthetic oil is $65 for 5 quarts, I don't think a $10 oil filter is offensive.
Just curious, your move to 0w-40 because of the high mileage or something?
As for the OP filter question, if you want to be safe just use OEM. If not, any decent reputable company would do just fine. Just don't buy cheap brand that are known to have cheap filtering media, rubber nitrite anti drain back valve, and 'clicker type' bypass valve. There isn't really the 'best' filter out there - It's really people preference (just like oil brand). As for me, currently I'm using Puralor Pure 1 - because it's convenience for me. You can also do some reading on Bobistheoilguy to get more ideas about oil and filters.
I agree with You All the Way,
Me personally, having worked at Napa for 18yrs and before that at an Automation company and having installed an Automated Filter Gasket Machine at the Wix Facility in Gastonia NC and seeing the manufacturing standards Wix uses, I use the extended length Napa Gold #1516 on my 2005 Lexus RX330. It works Great and I'm Very Pleased with the Performance of Wix Filters.
PS, I had a 1/4 mile Drag car for 20yrs and Always used a Wix filter on it, and I NEVER had an Engine or Filter Problem with a Wix Filter 10☆s
06-26-22, 07:42 PM
