Pros/Cons to a battery unplug to clear codes...
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My 2008 RX350 had the VSC and Check engine light have come on. It happened about a month ago when I ran the car VERY low on gas prior to a 93 octane fillup. Approx. 5 days after the fillup and about 160 miles, the lights went off on their own. ![Thumb Up](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
My RX lights came on again -- VSC and Check Engine. This time, I was 'slightly' below 1/4 tank left (60 miles to go on "info"). There are quite a few posts here about the gas cap, octane used, and how the car has to go run through a few "cycles" to clear the codes and make sure things are OKAY. Also, lots of recommendations to just pull the neg battery terminal to manually clear the codes. I am impatient and just HATE the idea that I'm driving around 'waiting' for my car to clear codes on its own, so I want to pull the battery cable. But......
I have a Nav and was wondering if this will clear any memory, waypoints, etc... related to the Nav. Also, will this clear my "driver 1" settings (seat/wheel/mirrors/etc. if relevant).
Thought I would ask before my impatience got the best of me.
I figured I would start this new thread about the pros/cons of battery unplugging rather than reincarnate threads from 2009 and 2010. Thanks and apologies in advance for not finding my answer when searching for myself prior to this posting.
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My RX lights came on again -- VSC and Check Engine. This time, I was 'slightly' below 1/4 tank left (60 miles to go on "info"). There are quite a few posts here about the gas cap, octane used, and how the car has to go run through a few "cycles" to clear the codes and make sure things are OKAY. Also, lots of recommendations to just pull the neg battery terminal to manually clear the codes. I am impatient and just HATE the idea that I'm driving around 'waiting' for my car to clear codes on its own, so I want to pull the battery cable. But......
I have a Nav and was wondering if this will clear any memory, waypoints, etc... related to the Nav. Also, will this clear my "driver 1" settings (seat/wheel/mirrors/etc. if relevant).
Thought I would ask before my impatience got the best of me.
I figured I would start this new thread about the pros/cons of battery unplugging rather than reincarnate threads from 2009 and 2010. Thanks and apologies in advance for not finding my answer when searching for myself prior to this posting.
#2
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Highly suggest to use an OBDII scanner to read and clear codes. That's the right way to do it.
The NAV system is backed up with its own battery and hence your setting will not go away, even if you unplug your battery.
And welcome to CL.
The NAV system is backed up with its own battery and hence your setting will not go away, even if you unplug your battery.
And welcome to CL.
#3
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You will need to re-initiate auto Windows functions as well as the sun roof after discoonecting the battery. I am not sure for the sriving position, but I guess that you need to re-configure that.
The right way is to pull the code using ODBII scanner. Evweyone's symptom could be different. Getting the exact code is the correct way to go. If you are near to a auto parts store like Napa, O'Reilly etc., they will rent you the scanner for reading the code. In my city, it is free.
The right way is to pull the code using ODBII scanner. Evweyone's symptom could be different. Getting the exact code is the correct way to go. If you are near to a auto parts store like Napa, O'Reilly etc., they will rent you the scanner for reading the code. In my city, it is free.
#4
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For something like you mentioned, exactly what mandyfig said, use the OBD2 scanner.
I've had that low fuel countless times, particularly in Mexico when I was running the 1/4 mile and wanted to keep the weight down, nothing like low oxygen content at high altitude, a low tank and that's a recipe for a check engine light. Every time, that little handheld scanner came out and I'd reset it after putting in some gas.
The other way to do it is pulling the EFI fuse for a bit (with the vehicle off, putting it back in, and then restarting) and that only affects the ECM and not things like presets for radio.
The time I advocate the battery cables is usually when it's something related to the engine that's to verify a busted part (usually a sensor) and you don't have something handy like a program that can read readings off the sensors to fully determine what's going on (like more advanced OBD2 scanners or laptop programs that can hookup via an OBD2 cable).
I advocate getting even one of the simple scanners they have on Amazon that uses the CAN protocol (would work with all the generations of the RX series). There's usually a few under $50 like those from Autel. They don't give readings, but they will read codes and even show if the readiness monitors are okay or not.
I've had that low fuel countless times, particularly in Mexico when I was running the 1/4 mile and wanted to keep the weight down, nothing like low oxygen content at high altitude, a low tank and that's a recipe for a check engine light. Every time, that little handheld scanner came out and I'd reset it after putting in some gas.
The other way to do it is pulling the EFI fuse for a bit (with the vehicle off, putting it back in, and then restarting) and that only affects the ECM and not things like presets for radio.
The time I advocate the battery cables is usually when it's something related to the engine that's to verify a busted part (usually a sensor) and you don't have something handy like a program that can read readings off the sensors to fully determine what's going on (like more advanced OBD2 scanners or laptop programs that can hookup via an OBD2 cable).
I advocate getting even one of the simple scanners they have on Amazon that uses the CAN protocol (would work with all the generations of the RX series). There's usually a few under $50 like those from Autel. They don't give readings, but they will read codes and even show if the readiness monitors are okay or not.
#5
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Lexmex just hit it on the head on the readiness check with your OBD 2 scanner.
Prior to your emission testing, you must know if your system is ready for a check and is clean of MIL or CEL.
My current scanner does not give me a readiness check. It goes through individual checks but is cumbersome.
I am in the market for an upgrade.
Prior to your emission testing, you must know if your system is ready for a check and is clean of MIL or CEL.
My current scanner does not give me a readiness check. It goes through individual checks but is cumbersome.
I am in the market for an upgrade.
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Lexmex just hit it on the head on the readiness check with your OBD 2 scanner.
Prior to your emission testing, you must know if your system is ready for a check and is clean of MIL or CEL.
My current scanner does not give me a readiness check. It goes through individual checks but is cumbersome.
I am in the market for an upgrade.
Prior to your emission testing, you must know if your system is ready for a check and is clean of MIL or CEL.
My current scanner does not give me a readiness check. It goes through individual checks but is cumbersome.
I am in the market for an upgrade.
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Thanks, will check it out.
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#8
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Like the other fella`s mentioned here ^^ I am not a believer on pulling the batt. cable for trying to clear codes. In fact, on some Nissan`s this procedure falls short, It just doesnt totally clear the codes. You might think their cleared, but they`ll be hiding in there somewhere.
Last edited by lexus114; 11-08-11 at 10:04 AM.
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Thanks again.
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I also have this laptop-based scanner, http://www.amazon.com/ElmScan-Compac...785388&sr=8-14
#12
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This is the one I have, http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan...0785388&sr=8-1
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Thanks for all of the good info. Here's the update...
I took my 2008 RX350 to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign car voodoo. He said that the code that came up on the computer was related to an O2 sensor. He said that sometimes the computer trips this code when there is some carbon buildup in the sensor, and a small tap or two often loosens the buildup that causes the sensor to trip. He said that oftentimes this solves the problems in some of the Lexus that he sees.
He said that when he does this, then resets the codes, and goes for a test drive without it coming back on, he sees about a 75% success rate. The other 25% come back on and clearly need a new sensor.
My cost for his voodoo... $0.
I'm crossing my fingers that I am in the 75% population, although I recall him doing a similar thing with the MAF on my 2001 RX300 a few years back, when all he charged me for was a bottle of cleaner. It's good to have someone who will not slap a brand new part on a car just to get paid and they have experience understanding some of the vehicle's quirks.
Can anyone corroborate this type of remedy, or heard of similar?
I took my 2008 RX350 to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign car voodoo. He said that the code that came up on the computer was related to an O2 sensor. He said that sometimes the computer trips this code when there is some carbon buildup in the sensor, and a small tap or two often loosens the buildup that causes the sensor to trip. He said that oftentimes this solves the problems in some of the Lexus that he sees.
He said that when he does this, then resets the codes, and goes for a test drive without it coming back on, he sees about a 75% success rate. The other 25% come back on and clearly need a new sensor.
My cost for his voodoo... $0.
I'm crossing my fingers that I am in the 75% population, although I recall him doing a similar thing with the MAF on my 2001 RX300 a few years back, when all he charged me for was a bottle of cleaner. It's good to have someone who will not slap a brand new part on a car just to get paid and they have experience understanding some of the vehicle's quirks.
Can anyone corroborate this type of remedy, or heard of similar?
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Thanks for all of the good info. Here's the update...
I took my 2008 RX350 to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign car voodoo. He said that the code that came up on the computer was related to an O2 sensor. He said that sometimes the computer trips this code when there is some carbon buildup in the sensor, and a small tap or two often loosens the buildup that causes the sensor to trip. He said that oftentimes this solves the problems in some of the Lexus that he sees.
He said that when he does this, then resets the codes, and goes for a test drive without it coming back on, he sees about a 75% success rate. The other 25% come back on and clearly need a new sensor.
My cost for his voodoo... $0.
I'm crossing my fingers that I am in the 75% population, although I recall him doing a similar thing with the MAF on my 2001 RX300 a few years back, when all he charged me for was a bottle of cleaner. It's good to have someone who will not slap a brand new part on a car just to get paid and they have experience understanding some of the vehicle's quirks.
Can anyone corroborate this type of remedy, or heard of similar?
I took my 2008 RX350 to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign car voodoo. He said that the code that came up on the computer was related to an O2 sensor. He said that sometimes the computer trips this code when there is some carbon buildup in the sensor, and a small tap or two often loosens the buildup that causes the sensor to trip. He said that oftentimes this solves the problems in some of the Lexus that he sees.
He said that when he does this, then resets the codes, and goes for a test drive without it coming back on, he sees about a 75% success rate. The other 25% come back on and clearly need a new sensor.
My cost for his voodoo... $0.
I'm crossing my fingers that I am in the 75% population, although I recall him doing a similar thing with the MAF on my 2001 RX300 a few years back, when all he charged me for was a bottle of cleaner. It's good to have someone who will not slap a brand new part on a car just to get paid and they have experience understanding some of the vehicle's quirks.
Can anyone corroborate this type of remedy, or heard of similar?