2004 Front and Rear Struts---DIY
09-26-20, 07:19 AM
#61
Driver School Candidate
DIY Question
Finally did this job today, all 4 corners....the parts listed above are exactly what I used (all KYB stuff from rockauto). What a HUGE difference in ride quality / feel / vibration!!! Just for reference, visual inspection of each old strut showed no signs of damage of leakage. Also, the "push on the bumper" test with the old struts could never produce a motion that wasn't damped immediately (never an additional bounce). Point is, these two common "checks" really failed in this case.
I had never done this job before, but it went very well. Total time was just over 6 hours, including stopping for a few minutes for lunch. Interestingly, the most difficult thing to remove after 8+ years of Michigan salt were the rear bolts securing the brake lines to the bracket on the strut tube, but eventually these came off with threads intact.
The only somewhat unexpected outcome was that my steering wheel is now slightly off-center ( a couple degrees to the right). I understand this is somewhat common after front struts and that it's recommended to get an alignment. I'll get this done next week. Interestingly, even though the steering is off a couple degrees, there is no pulling whatsoever.
My RX currently has ~139,000
Some background....
I had a very annoying steering wheel vibration than would usually surface around 70 - 75mph. It was so characteristic of wheels out of balance that you would swear that's what it was. Around 10,000 miles ago, I had worn Bridestones replaced with new Michelins at Costco. Vibration was still there....this is what initially got me thinking about struts. Quieter, but still would vibrate. Interestingly, it would usually only vibrate on certain road surfaces (almost always smooth assphalt...most unfortunate since this makes up most of my commute). On smooth concrete highways, the vibration was usually never noticeable. A couple weeks ago, I had the wheels balanced again (~10,000 miles on tires) at a different Costco. Employee said the wheels balanced perfectly. Vibration characteristics were exactly as before.
After replacing all 4 struts....NO VIBRATIONS!!! It's soooo wonderful...and rides so tight and controlled. It's a more drastic outcome than I ever expected. I had hoped for some improvement and the result very much exceeded my expectations.
I had never done this job before, but it went very well. Total time was just over 6 hours, including stopping for a few minutes for lunch. Interestingly, the most difficult thing to remove after 8+ years of Michigan salt were the rear bolts securing the brake lines to the bracket on the strut tube, but eventually these came off with threads intact.
The only somewhat unexpected outcome was that my steering wheel is now slightly off-center ( a couple degrees to the right). I understand this is somewhat common after front struts and that it's recommended to get an alignment. I'll get this done next week. Interestingly, even though the steering is off a couple degrees, there is no pulling whatsoever.
My RX currently has ~139,000
Some background....
I had a very annoying steering wheel vibration than would usually surface around 70 - 75mph. It was so characteristic of wheels out of balance that you would swear that's what it was. Around 10,000 miles ago, I had worn Bridestones replaced with new Michelins at Costco. Vibration was still there....this is what initially got me thinking about struts. Quieter, but still would vibrate. Interestingly, it would usually only vibrate on certain road surfaces (almost always smooth assphalt...most unfortunate since this makes up most of my commute). On smooth concrete highways, the vibration was usually never noticeable. A couple weeks ago, I had the wheels balanced again (~10,000 miles on tires) at a different Costco. Employee said the wheels balanced perfectly. Vibration characteristics were exactly as before.
After replacing all 4 struts....NO VIBRATIONS!!! It's soooo wonderful...and rides so tight and controlled. It's a more drastic outcome than I ever expected. I had hoped for some improvement and the result very much exceeded my expectations.
Thx for all the detail! Really dumb question, but what did you use to lift the car, just solid jack, one corner at a time? Thx
09-30-20, 12:58 PM
#62
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Wisconsin
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cutting of swaybar link ends
I had to cut my sway link ends off. Takes about 30 secs for each bolt, I cut right thought end of the blot (so the thread and nut split in two)
Used a $20 Harborfrieght grinder and a Diablo thin cut off wheel (see below)
The first swaybar link, took 4 hours of using penetrating oil and lots of care to remove the bolt, cutting is way way faster and better.
Do yourself a favor and buy a thin bladed griding wheel like
Used a $20 Harborfrieght grinder and a Diablo thin cut off wheel (see below)
The first swaybar link, took 4 hours of using penetrating oil and lots of care to remove the bolt, cutting is way way faster and better.
Do yourself a favor and buy a thin bladed griding wheel like
DIABLO
4-1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 7/8 in. Metal Cut-Off Disc with Type 27 Depressed Center
Last edited by greginwi; 09-30-20 at 01:02 PM. Reason: adding info
04-05-22, 01:40 PM
#63
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Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: MA
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Did this job the other day. Seized or rusted end links can be taken off by using a breaker bar and holding the back side (socket side) to break it loose, plus a bit of PB blaster if it's good and rusty. The nut on the socket side is hidden under the boot. My links were old and clunking and I was replacing them too so I ripped the link's boots off. Took some elbow grease but got them off and the new ones on with the vice grips. Otherwise, you'll have to cut them off like others have said.
The two lower 19mm bolts holding the bottom of the strut to the knuckle can be very hard to break loose, and can be easily stripped. I broke a small breaker bar and had to buy a 1/2 inch bar to crack them loose, with another half inch wrench to hold the other side. Use a flathead screwdriver or rubber mallet to hammer them out. If you do strip one, Toyota typically has the part next day, which is what happened in my case, not the end of the world, the bolt is $12.
Once all four wheels are back on the ground, retorque the three 14mm holding the top of the strut inside the rear humps and under the front end wiper cowling. This will prevent clunking as the struts settle a couple cm under load. I also like to torque one last time after a few days. Total time for all four wheels was about 5-6 hours of work.
The two lower 19mm bolts holding the bottom of the strut to the knuckle can be very hard to break loose, and can be easily stripped. I broke a small breaker bar and had to buy a 1/2 inch bar to crack them loose, with another half inch wrench to hold the other side. Use a flathead screwdriver or rubber mallet to hammer them out. If you do strip one, Toyota typically has the part next day, which is what happened in my case, not the end of the world, the bolt is $12.
Once all four wheels are back on the ground, retorque the three 14mm holding the top of the strut inside the rear humps and under the front end wiper cowling. This will prevent clunking as the struts settle a couple cm under load. I also like to torque one last time after a few days. Total time for all four wheels was about 5-6 hours of work.
04-05-22, 10:32 PM
#64
10th Gear
Jeff,, thanks for those numbers....
I have not tackled the job yet..... 145,857 miles on the RX.... ride is good but somewhat lose on the bumps, turns and when carrying 4 or 5 people.
My daughter has the exact same car with 88,000 miles and it drives more solid and tighter/firmer.
KYB or MONROE,,, has ANYONE USED Monroe and are they happy.... I know they say KYB are OEM...
Is there a difference.... does it matter.....
When I get some free time I will do the job rears first.... then fronts after I experience the task of STRUTS.
Thanks for Parts ordering numbers Jeff.......
I will update when I complete the job...
I have not tackled the job yet..... 145,857 miles on the RX.... ride is good but somewhat lose on the bumps, turns and when carrying 4 or 5 people.
My daughter has the exact same car with 88,000 miles and it drives more solid and tighter/firmer.
KYB or MONROE,,, has ANYONE USED Monroe and are they happy.... I know they say KYB are OEM...
Is there a difference.... does it matter.....
When I get some free time I will do the job rears first.... then fronts after I experience the task of STRUTS.
Thanks for Parts ordering numbers Jeff.......
I will update when I complete the job...
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