Update on motor oil for my RX
#19
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Actually RL is considered by many a group V oil b/c of its base stock. VI or V, can't go wrong.
Many claim Mobil 1 is still Group IV but its was reformed in the past and now at best its at III/IV...more III.
Motor oils are comprised of two parts, the base oil and additive package. The base oil comprises 80-90% of the oil by volume and the additives the remaining 10-20%. There are five groups of base oils: Group I, II, III, IV and V. Groups I to III are refined from crude oil containing tars, asphalts, waxes ,aromatics and other “bad things”. These crude oils are “cleaned up”, to the extent possible, by hydrocracking and filtering. The group III base oils are the best of this genre. However, they still contain variably-sized molecules and some contaminants that can result in sludge, varnish and other deposits in your engine. Moreover, the quality of group III base oils vary greatly due to differences in the feedstocks and refining methods utilized.
Synthetic oils are group IV (PAOs) and group V (esters) base oils. These synthetic oils are “man-made” synthesized uniform molecular structures that significantly improve the efficiency and effectiveness of these oils relative to their petroleum oil competitors. More specifically, these oils have lower coefficients of friction, thermal (heat) and pour-point (cold weather performance) properties than do petroleum oils. Finally, synthetic oils have no waxes, tars, or other contaminants to sludge or varnish your engine.
While synthetic motor oil and lubricants are initially more expensive, when you consider their extended oil and engine-life extension capabilities, in addition to their improved performance, then you have only one choice and that choice is synthetic oils.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1249719
Many claim Mobil 1 is still Group IV but its was reformed in the past and now at best its at III/IV...more III.
Motor oils are comprised of two parts, the base oil and additive package. The base oil comprises 80-90% of the oil by volume and the additives the remaining 10-20%. There are five groups of base oils: Group I, II, III, IV and V. Groups I to III are refined from crude oil containing tars, asphalts, waxes ,aromatics and other “bad things”. These crude oils are “cleaned up”, to the extent possible, by hydrocracking and filtering. The group III base oils are the best of this genre. However, they still contain variably-sized molecules and some contaminants that can result in sludge, varnish and other deposits in your engine. Moreover, the quality of group III base oils vary greatly due to differences in the feedstocks and refining methods utilized.
Synthetic oils are group IV (PAOs) and group V (esters) base oils. These synthetic oils are “man-made” synthesized uniform molecular structures that significantly improve the efficiency and effectiveness of these oils relative to their petroleum oil competitors. More specifically, these oils have lower coefficients of friction, thermal (heat) and pour-point (cold weather performance) properties than do petroleum oils. Finally, synthetic oils have no waxes, tars, or other contaminants to sludge or varnish your engine.
While synthetic motor oil and lubricants are initially more expensive, when you consider their extended oil and engine-life extension capabilities, in addition to their improved performance, then you have only one choice and that choice is synthetic oils.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1249719
#21
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My research shows top tier: Red Line, Amsoil, Motul, German Castrol. If you've bought a Lexus, why not used the best stuff in it.
#22
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No matter what oil you use, change it regularly. I use SuperTech full syn 5W-30 every 5000 mi or 6 months, whatever comes first. For regular passenger car use, I believe top line (boutique) oils have capabilities that are unused and therefore are not worth the extra cost.
Tom
Tom
#23
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In my understanding, Fuchs is also among the best esters base oils. Any reason why it's missing in your search?
Also, imho Castrol isn't anywhere near the others in your list. Much more in the M1 league, if that.
Also, imho Castrol isn't anywhere near the others in your list. Much more in the M1 league, if that.
#24
#25
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Again, you can scrimp in other places in your budget, but not in anything as important as your car (esp Lexi)
#26
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I am not sure about the later engines, but the 3.3L V6 is really tough on oil. I ran Mobil 1 5W30 to 8,611 miles and the TBN was 2.0.
Last edited by cdnewton; 02-24-13 at 08:02 AM.
#27
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#28
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Did you use your RX for towing, or any other sort of heavy usage?
Besides, what was the total mileage? And in which type of climate?
...just curious...
#29
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At the time I got the Blackstone analysis referenced above, the vehicle had ~55,000 miles on it. We purchased our R330 new in late 2003 it currently has 165,700 trouble-free miles on it.
BTW, I had another report with M1 5W30 EP with 6,640 miles on it and the TBN was 2.7.
At about 87,000 miles, I switched over to Pennzoil Platinum. The engine beat up PP also.
At about 135,000, I switched over to my own personal blend of 4 quarts Pennzoil High Mileage 5W30 / 1 quart Pennzoil Platinum and I change it every ~5,000 miles. The last oil analysis (around 155,000 miles with this mix) came back with Blackstone raving about the wear. That oil change had 5,580 miles and the TBN was 2.7.
So, I guess the moral of this story is, I would caution anyone that owns the 3.3L V6 to ensure you perform oil analysis/testing before going 15,000 miles on any oil.
As with anything, YMMV.
#30
Lexus Champion
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Over on Bob`s there was a Toyota Siena owner I think an 05 or 06. He used PP (Pennzoil Platinum) 5W-20 for 5k and the uoa looked very good on that oil.