DIY: RX350 Water Pump
03-05-19, 12:51 PM
#31
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Just finished replacing the water pump on our 2007 RX350 this weekend. The manual says you need to remove the whole engine, but it's not necessary. Note this is not an easy job. I've done an SC400 and an IS350 and this was the most difficult due to space and stupid engineering.
Due to my low mileage (~75K) I chose not to replace any pulley's - just the pump, related o-rings, and the thermostat.
For anybody that's actually qualified to do this, kindly review my steps and let me know where I need to make changes or if I missed anything.
Thanks to Jason Phan of JP Euro for the 30 seconds worth of advice that got me past my hurdles.
Due to my low mileage (~75K) I chose not to replace any pulley's - just the pump, related o-rings, and the thermostat.
For anybody that's actually qualified to do this, kindly review my steps and let me know where I need to make changes or if I missed anything.
Thanks to Jason Phan of JP Euro for the 30 seconds worth of advice that got me past my hurdles.
03-07-19, 12:39 PM
#32
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Replacing 2008 RX350 water pump
Thanks Neucorp for the nice Water Pump pdf. When you jack up the engine, approx how many inches you need to jack up? Just worry about stuff still connect to engine like hoses..etc. I have small hands. Just wondering if it would be possible to work on it with a set of low profile sockets without jacking up the engine. Answer my own question after doing it. It was difficult with the engine jacked up 2-3 inches, so it is not possible to take the water pump out without moving the engine block up.
Referring to Neucorp's nice pdf instructions above, I want to highlight a few things now that I have done replacing the water pump on my 2008 RX350:
(I suggest take a few pictures around the water pump surrounding before you start taking things apart. I suggest get out few sheets of blank paper and group the parts together with their nuts and bolts and which Step they came from. This will make your life easier when you try to put everything back together. )
Step 10: Disconnect the radiator hose from the aluminum outlet. Later on, you have to remove this aluminum piece, which will expose the thermostat.
Step 13: There are three engine mounts: one in the center near the radiator. One on the passenger side behind the tire. One on the driver side, which you do not need to touch.
You can either remove the nuts from the engine mount or loosen it with couple threads left. If you decide to remove the nuts, make sure when you are jacking up the engine, do not jack it up so high that the center engine mount hole get pass the bolt on the engine mount. If the hole is outside of the bolt and out of line even by 1/2 inch, you have yourself a small project trying to get the hole back into the engine mount bolt. This happen to me. What happens is then the passenger side and front side engine mount is not bolted to the engine, the engine slide back towards the firewall just by 1/2 inch when I was jacking up the engine in Step 15. May be it is because I started with the front on car ramps to give me more access under neath. May be if I started on level ground, the engine would not have slide back.
Step 14: The two nuts on the RR mounting insulator were impossible to get to. So, instead of removing the top two nuts, you can loosen the other two nuts from under the frame that is supporting the mounting insulator. You can see them after removing the 1 1/2" diameter rubber seal from under the frame. Again, it might be sufficient to loose them with couple threads left.
Step 16: Use a permanent marker to number each of the six bolts starting from the top and go clockwise: 1, 2, 3...6. They are different lengths. Be sure to remove bolt #5 LAST. Trust me!
Step 17: The two idler pulley are normal threaded, unlike the tensioner pulley.
Step 21: The water inlet housing half with the thermostat is actually mounted on top of part of the water pump. This was so unnecessary by the Lexus engineers. Now you have to remove the two bolts and a nut to get this housing off of the water pump. You actually do not need to touch the Water Hose part as indicated in Neucorp's PDF, if you have Torx star bit female socket.
If you have the new water pump, you will notice a strange 2" thin screw sticking out. That screw goes through the water inlet housing half with the thermostat. If you remove this screw from the old water pump, you can now wiggle and slide the old water pump out from under this water inlet housing, which has absolutely no reason why Lexus sandwich part of the water pump between the water inlet housing and the engine.
Step 23: I only noticed two different sizes bolts: A & B. B and C are the same size on my RX350.
***
After putting in the new water pump, it would save you some headache if you first put the two idlers and the tensioner pulley back, then roughly line up the serpentine belt skipping the Generator, then install the water pump pulley. Put the serpentine belt back on the Generator last after installing all the Step 16 to Step 10.
Referring to Neucorp's nice pdf instructions above, I want to highlight a few things now that I have done replacing the water pump on my 2008 RX350:
(I suggest take a few pictures around the water pump surrounding before you start taking things apart. I suggest get out few sheets of blank paper and group the parts together with their nuts and bolts and which Step they came from. This will make your life easier when you try to put everything back together. )
Step 10: Disconnect the radiator hose from the aluminum outlet. Later on, you have to remove this aluminum piece, which will expose the thermostat.
Step 13: There are three engine mounts: one in the center near the radiator. One on the passenger side behind the tire. One on the driver side, which you do not need to touch.
You can either remove the nuts from the engine mount or loosen it with couple threads left. If you decide to remove the nuts, make sure when you are jacking up the engine, do not jack it up so high that the center engine mount hole get pass the bolt on the engine mount. If the hole is outside of the bolt and out of line even by 1/2 inch, you have yourself a small project trying to get the hole back into the engine mount bolt. This happen to me. What happens is then the passenger side and front side engine mount is not bolted to the engine, the engine slide back towards the firewall just by 1/2 inch when I was jacking up the engine in Step 15. May be it is because I started with the front on car ramps to give me more access under neath. May be if I started on level ground, the engine would not have slide back.
Step 14: The two nuts on the RR mounting insulator were impossible to get to. So, instead of removing the top two nuts, you can loosen the other two nuts from under the frame that is supporting the mounting insulator. You can see them after removing the 1 1/2" diameter rubber seal from under the frame. Again, it might be sufficient to loose them with couple threads left.
Step 16: Use a permanent marker to number each of the six bolts starting from the top and go clockwise: 1, 2, 3...6. They are different lengths. Be sure to remove bolt #5 LAST. Trust me!
Step 17: The two idler pulley are normal threaded, unlike the tensioner pulley.
Step 21: The water inlet housing half with the thermostat is actually mounted on top of part of the water pump. This was so unnecessary by the Lexus engineers. Now you have to remove the two bolts and a nut to get this housing off of the water pump. You actually do not need to touch the Water Hose part as indicated in Neucorp's PDF, if you have Torx star bit female socket.
If you have the new water pump, you will notice a strange 2" thin screw sticking out. That screw goes through the water inlet housing half with the thermostat. If you remove this screw from the old water pump, you can now wiggle and slide the old water pump out from under this water inlet housing, which has absolutely no reason why Lexus sandwich part of the water pump between the water inlet housing and the engine.
Step 23: I only noticed two different sizes bolts: A & B. B and C are the same size on my RX350.
***
After putting in the new water pump, it would save you some headache if you first put the two idlers and the tensioner pulley back, then roughly line up the serpentine belt skipping the Generator, then install the water pump pulley. Put the serpentine belt back on the Generator last after installing all the Step 16 to Step 10.
Last edited by rickiteasy; 03-15-19 at 01:18 PM. Reason: Adding more information
03-07-19, 02:14 PM
#33
JP just let me know that you needed to remove the one engine mount and do the jack dance to get the clearance. Regarding the clearance, I took it until the hoses were tight but not risking breaking. It was probably no more than a couple inches...helps to have another set of eyes keeping an eye on things while you jack it up. You might be able to fit in some low profiles, but I doubt it.
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spinellib (03-10-23)
09-05-19, 01:12 AM
#34
Appreciate this @Neucorp !
I tackled this on my 2008 RX350 over the labor day weekend using your pdf as well as
and was able to do it on my own. (I literally had the laptop on a table next to the car going back and forth)
It took 2 days. 1 day to remove everything and 1 day to install. (I took my time)
I ended up changing the waterpump, belt, thermostat and 1 idler pulley.
I would have changed the tensioner pulley as well but the old one was "ok" and a new one is $230. *ouch!
For whatever reason they sell it as a complete assembly (with bracket) not just the pulley so I decided to just live with it for the time being.
A few things I'd like to add to help anyone attempting this:
1. As a "backyard mechanic" myself, I must say this is a tough job. I've worked on numerous cars over the years but this one had me reaching for tools I haven't touched in awhile so get ready. Having a second set of hands (and a lift) would have made this go a lot faster!
2. When draining coolant from the block do yourself a favor and get a small hose from the store if you don't have one to fit around the bleeder nipple to help minimize the mess.
3. Take your time (if possible) and put the small screws and body clips in labelled bags. It helps.
4.(a) When undoing the thermostat housing take your time removing the hoses (I used a pic & screwdriver) and once you've got em moving try and use something (with no sharp edges) to wedge in and pry off the top part of the housing by pushing it away from the motor slowly. I stuck the back end of a stubby breaker bar by the little hose on the top and pushed gently to get the housing separated from the pipe with the o-ring.
4.(b) If you struggle with those OEM locking hose clamps (I hate those things), either cut em off and change them or bend the little male part to get them to open more. It does help to minimize the unnecessary frustration. =)
5. Definitely undo the 3 motor mounts like in the YouTube Vid. The one thing I did differently was the one in the center of the radiator has 3 bolts but I was able to remove 2 nuts and still have enough room to lift without fear of the motor moving too far. I removed the nut in front and the one directly behind it.
6. When moving the motor up and down to access the bolts on the pulleys etc pay attention to how the motor moves. When the motor goes up it angles to the right but returns when lowered. It can create the impression that the motor mount studs won't return properly but they will. I was able to bring it up and down by myself by taking my time and checking to see where the mount studs were at. You may have to guide them a lil bit but they'll find their way back. Take your time.
7. Watch the metal line (that goes over the steering rack boot) by the back motor mount. I loosened the 10mm that holds the line down so that it had more play when the mount when up and down.
8. While changing the pump, do yourself a favor and change the thermostat too. Its right there. Try to get as close to OEM parts if possible. I got this Aisin water pump and the thermostat from the toyota dealer. Don't forget the gasket!
9. When tightening up the waterpump watch out for the bolt torque specs. I had a small heart attack when I accidentally snapped 1 of the smaller bolts following Neucorps diagram.
He had bolts labelled A, B and C. My layout was different. I ended up following the video: "The larger bolts are 15 ft lbs and the smaller bolts are 81 in lbs."
TIP: When removing the bolts, I put them 1 by 1 in the new water pumps holes. This way I know exactly where they came from. Also, don't forget to pick up some thread sealant while you are at the auto parts store.
10. I reinstalled the waterpump, then pulleys and was able to easily install the new belt before the thermostat housing was back on. From up top you have plenty of room to push the tensioner forward with your right arm (assuming you have longish a breaker bar) and reach your left arm around and the fender and slide the belt over the crank pulley. Check the belt alignment before you let the tensioner go.
11. Once everything was tightened back up I left the wheel off and (following the youtube video) added the coolant and then ran the car until I was sure there was no leaks before the road test.
Sorry for the long winded post, I just wanted to share my thoughts while it was still fresh in my head.
On a side note, does anyone have the motor mount bolt torque specs (for the bottom bolts)?
I couldn't find them online.
Thanks again!
I tackled this on my 2008 RX350 over the labor day weekend using your pdf as well as
It took 2 days. 1 day to remove everything and 1 day to install. (I took my time)
I ended up changing the waterpump, belt, thermostat and 1 idler pulley.
I would have changed the tensioner pulley as well but the old one was "ok" and a new one is $230. *ouch!
For whatever reason they sell it as a complete assembly (with bracket) not just the pulley so I decided to just live with it for the time being.
A few things I'd like to add to help anyone attempting this:
1. As a "backyard mechanic" myself, I must say this is a tough job. I've worked on numerous cars over the years but this one had me reaching for tools I haven't touched in awhile so get ready. Having a second set of hands (and a lift) would have made this go a lot faster!
2. When draining coolant from the block do yourself a favor and get a small hose from the store if you don't have one to fit around the bleeder nipple to help minimize the mess.
3. Take your time (if possible) and put the small screws and body clips in labelled bags. It helps.
4.(a) When undoing the thermostat housing take your time removing the hoses (I used a pic & screwdriver) and once you've got em moving try and use something (with no sharp edges) to wedge in and pry off the top part of the housing by pushing it away from the motor slowly. I stuck the back end of a stubby breaker bar by the little hose on the top and pushed gently to get the housing separated from the pipe with the o-ring.
4.(b) If you struggle with those OEM locking hose clamps (I hate those things), either cut em off and change them or bend the little male part to get them to open more. It does help to minimize the unnecessary frustration. =)
5. Definitely undo the 3 motor mounts like in the YouTube Vid. The one thing I did differently was the one in the center of the radiator has 3 bolts but I was able to remove 2 nuts and still have enough room to lift without fear of the motor moving too far. I removed the nut in front and the one directly behind it.
6. When moving the motor up and down to access the bolts on the pulleys etc pay attention to how the motor moves. When the motor goes up it angles to the right but returns when lowered. It can create the impression that the motor mount studs won't return properly but they will. I was able to bring it up and down by myself by taking my time and checking to see where the mount studs were at. You may have to guide them a lil bit but they'll find their way back. Take your time.
7. Watch the metal line (that goes over the steering rack boot) by the back motor mount. I loosened the 10mm that holds the line down so that it had more play when the mount when up and down.
8. While changing the pump, do yourself a favor and change the thermostat too. Its right there. Try to get as close to OEM parts if possible. I got this Aisin water pump and the thermostat from the toyota dealer. Don't forget the gasket!
9. When tightening up the waterpump watch out for the bolt torque specs. I had a small heart attack when I accidentally snapped 1 of the smaller bolts following Neucorps diagram.
He had bolts labelled A, B and C. My layout was different. I ended up following the video: "The larger bolts are 15 ft lbs and the smaller bolts are 81 in lbs."TIP: When removing the bolts, I put them 1 by 1 in the new water pumps holes. This way I know exactly where they came from. Also, don't forget to pick up some thread sealant while you are at the auto parts store.
10. I reinstalled the waterpump, then pulleys and was able to easily install the new belt before the thermostat housing was back on. From up top you have plenty of room to push the tensioner forward with your right arm (assuming you have longish a breaker bar) and reach your left arm around and the fender and slide the belt over the crank pulley. Check the belt alignment before you let the tensioner go.
11. Once everything was tightened back up I left the wheel off and (following the youtube video) added the coolant and then ran the car until I was sure there was no leaks before the road test.
Sorry for the long winded post, I just wanted to share my thoughts while it was still fresh in my head.
On a side note, does anyone have the motor mount bolt torque specs (for the bottom bolts)?
I couldn't find them online.
Thanks again!
Last edited by FloorJack; 09-05-19 at 01:15 AM.
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09-05-19, 07:38 AM
#35
Driver School Candidate
Nice job FloorJack!!! One thing I would add is if you are in there replace the o-ring on the thermostat housing as well. I replaced my 2009 water pump this past spring and the o-ring started to leak about 3 months later. After 175,000 miles the original o-ring just didn't have any elasticity left. You can imagine my frustration seeing what I thought was the new water pump leaking. Thankfully I took my time diagnosing the issue and didn't immediately jump to replacing the pump again.
09-05-19, 09:03 AM
#36
Nice job FloorJack!!! One thing I would add is if you are in there replace the o-ring on the thermostat housing as well. I replaced my 2009 water pump this past spring and the o-ring started to leak about 3 months later. After 175,000 miles the original o-ring just didn't have any elasticity left. You can imagine my frustration seeing what I thought was the new water pump leaking. Thankfully I took my time diagnosing the issue and didn't immediately jump to replacing the pump again.
If you watch the YouTube video it looks like he installed the same pump i did as he had the gaskets.
What brand pump did you install?
01-06-20, 08:37 AM
#38
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I just replace the water pump on my 2013 RX350 with 81,000 miles only. It was making a weird noise and when I disconnected the serpentine belt, the noise went away. I felt the WP pulley and it was wobbling. I printed the pdf file on Neucorp's post. That was a lot of help. My Lexus is again nice and quite. Thank you Newcorp. By the way, got an AISIN pump for $91 on Amazon.
01-06-20, 06:15 PM
#39
Pole Position
Yea it is a hassell. but at least its not like a Ford 3.5 in a fwd based vehicle.
06-18-20, 07:35 PM
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Hello!
I know I'm bumping an old thread but seemed more relevant here than a new post. I'm getting this done under warranty from the dealer and was wondering if there was anything else I should proactively replace while I'm at it. I know I have a bit of seepage from the timing case - it doesn't look like that has to come out for this? Sweet that I get a coolant exchange too
.
Car is 2010 with 115k. Any ideas? Just bought yesterday and so far am very happy!
Thanks!
I know I'm bumping an old thread but seemed more relevant here than a new post. I'm getting this done under warranty from the dealer and was wondering if there was anything else I should proactively replace while I'm at it. I know I have a bit of seepage from the timing case - it doesn't look like that has to come out for this? Sweet that I get a coolant exchange too
. Car is 2010 with 115k. Any ideas? Just bought yesterday and so far am very happy!
Thanks!
06-19-20, 06:33 AM
#41
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Hello!
I know I'm bumping an old thread but seemed more relevant here than a new post. I'm getting this done under warranty from the dealer and was wondering if there was anything else I should proactively replace while I'm at it. I know I have a bit of seepage from the timing case - it doesn't look like that has to come out for this? Sweet that I get a coolant exchange too.
Car is 2010 with 115k. Any ideas? Just bought yesterday and so far am very happy!
Thanks!
I know I'm bumping an old thread but seemed more relevant here than a new post. I'm getting this done under warranty from the dealer and was wondering if there was anything else I should proactively replace while I'm at it. I know I have a bit of seepage from the timing case - it doesn't look like that has to come out for this? Sweet that I get a coolant exchange too
.Car is 2010 with 115k. Any ideas? Just bought yesterday and so far am very happy!
Thanks!
There are lots of good information on this site. Just follow all the recomendations. I did and haven’t had a problem since I replaced my pump.
06-20-20, 08:53 AM
#42
Racer
im just lucky and glad so far that i havent had any issues with my water pump or thermostat so far in the almost 4 years ive had my rx so far.
06-25-20, 05:24 PM
#43
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So you're thinking just the themostat too? No other random parts that should be proactively addressed while they're in there?
Thank you!
06-25-20, 05:42 PM
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Water pump
I did not replace the thermostat because it was working fine but its a matter of personal choice. They dont usually go bad. I would replace the serpentine belt at the very least.
09-07-20, 02:21 PM
#45
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2008 with 35k miles
I just bought this 08’ RX350 with 35k miles. Should I replace the water pump or wait for signs of failing? I get it’s a 12 year old car, but not sure the recommended years to replace for this model. I also have a 02’ SC430 and replaced the water pump, timing belt, all pulley’s and flushed when I bought at 69k miles a few years back. I only did it because of timing belt really, no issues. The RX350 has a chain though, not that it has any correlation with the pump. Any guidance is appreciated.