gcancilla

I have been experiencing the dreaded "Key won't turn" in my 2007 RX350 for over a year now and I finally got tired of using the hammer to start a $50,000 car so I decided to order the replacement cylinder. I am having a heck of a time trying to get to the cylinder on the RX350 to replace it. Can anyone walk me through what I need to remove on the dash to get to the cylinder so that I can remove it? Removing the actual cylinder isn't the issue, the issue is trying to get to it so that I can push the button and remove the old cylinder. This is really frustrating so any help is really appreciated.

Thanks!

gcancilla

Nobody.........?

Rainbird

Two photos from the 2008 RX Service Manual:

gcancilla

Does that manual show how to remove the part of the dash that surrounds the ignition? I cant access the cylinder by just removing the bottom plate.

Rainbird

Those diagrams are the only ones shown. The manual seems to imply that removing the scuff plate and the lower instrument panel will provide access to the ignition switch. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Crickets

Hi folks,

This is only the 2nd time I post so it's possible I'm doing a couple of things wrong. Hopefully, not.

I came across this thread a little while ago to get an idea of how to replace the ignition lock cylinder in the 2007 RX series (my issue was on a 2007 RX400h so decided to share my experience. I noticed that the ignition cylinder was housed in an aluminum case, appropriately called the "ignition lock cylinder housing." The housing is secured in place by 2 one-time security bolts. I ended up drilling them out with a carbide drill bit. I covered all electronics with paper towels, to prevent flying shavings from potentially shorting out wires and electronics. Once both security bolts were removed, I removed the trim around the ignition keyhole, turned the ignition key all the way clockwise past the Start position to clear the "deadbolt" that enters the steering column (referenced by the black pen in picture 2) and removed the lock cylinder and housing assembly from underneath the steering column (finish panel subassembly was removed). It took a bit of doing to get the housing to clear wiring, brackets, etc.

Essentially, Rainbird posted the correct photos showing the removal procedure for the housing. What the manual doesn't say is that there are 2 security bolts to drill out. I suppose stating this procedure in the manual would defeat the purpose of having security bolts since we'd all know how to get to the ignition lock cylinder.

Lastly, hoping attachments came through.

DennisMik

Thank you for posting how you removed the ignition lock cylinder assembly. Posting photos that show what that monster looks like is very helpful, too.

All cars use those security bolts and if the space permits, you can cut a slot in the head with a hacksaw or a dremel tool and use a flat blade screwdriver. Another way is to drill a hole in the bolt head and use an easy out.

Crickets

Good point, DennisMik. I forgot to mention that I tried a screw extractor by first drilling a pilot hole but the extractor broke; the security bolt was seized in. Hence the mess I made on one of the pass through holes. The 2nd security bolt cane out a little more easily but it too was on tight.

edwardh11

certainly a big chunk of metal.
off topic- I wonder if all the anti theft precautions ($300 keys etc) have reduced car theft?
I know only one person that has ever had a car stolen (left it running in a quick stop late at night when he went inside.
I wonder if its overkill?

Crickets

According to III, car thefts have been trending downward for the past 30 years or so but not exclusively due to smart key systems.

https://www.iii.org/fact-statistic/f...ics-auto-theft

Honestly, these smart key systems are painful. The lock cylinder and housing came with 2 x 1/2 shell + 1 valet uncut keys. I lost one original key so don’t have the transponder. I bought a new unprogrammed key + transponder on Amazon. Now I’m trying to find a locksmith who’ll program and cut both for less than $250. It’s crazy expensive. If nothing else, smart keys have helped deter car/theft deterrent but jacked up the cost of a car key.

Any thoughts on where I can find a reasonably priced alternative to cutting and programming the keys are welcome.

msholt02

Just curious, but does the whole housing need to be removed to replace the lock cylinder?

Crickets

msholt02

That would be greatly appreciated. Btw, What kind of screws did you replace the security screws with?

Crickets

Sorry for the later reply than expected. I had family from out of state over.

Hope the pics and details help, msholt02. It's not a hard job. Just a bit painful since we end up lying down in a pretzel.

ruprik

I realize that this is an older thread but just wanted to add some info on my experience with attempting to replace the lock cylinder. My experience is with a 2008 RX350 that is exhibiting the same "no turn" issues.

I don't believe that it's possible to remove the lock cylinder without either 1) removing the full ignition/steering wheel lock and housing that contains it, or 2) removing the full dashboard first that surrounds the "key hole".

With regards to #2 - There is a small trim piece that can be removed from the dash (it just pops out) but at the end of the lock cylinder behind the dash is an antenna (embedded in the plastic circle that lights up in the dark). From underneath, this is part of the dark grey "FCC" registered unit that communicates with the smart key to enable the car to start (the key can be turned without the smart transmitter in the head of the key, but my car will not start without the key transmitter being present). This plastic FCC registered part must be removed before the lock cylinder can be removed and it is not possible to remove it with the full housing in place without removing the dashboard first as the FCC part is too big to fit through the hole in the dashboard.

Here are some screenshots from a video that I ran across:

First - this is the FCC gizmo on the end of the housing. You can see the antenna (copper colored wiring at the end of the clear plastic). The ignition housing is upside down in this photo (the grey plug is on the bottom when mounted in the vehicle).


These next 2 photos show the housing with the FCC gizmo removed. You can see that the ignition cylinder is larger than the small hole on the housing (it is the full diameter of the housing, just a mm or so thick at the end), so the FCC gizmo must be removed first before removing the cylinder. I was able to reach up with my hand on top of the ignition housing and depress the recessed cylinder release button. With the button depressed and the key straight up and down (between "off" and "on", you can feel the ignition cylinder release. But the plastic housing prevents it's removal.

When attempting this, I used a small brad with a large head (a thumbtack would work) taped to my finger so that I could reach up and depress the button easily. But the FCC gizmo foiled my attempt to remove the cylinder.





Hopefully this context is helpful to someone. For the time being, I am attempting to use graphite, etc. to lubricate the mechanism but I expect that I'll also be drilling out security bolts and removing the housing at some point.

Ruprik