Clunk noise from the rear during slow speed
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Clunk noise from the rear during slow speed
New thread to boost up some ideas...
Problem is noise that you can describe as clunk, not any harsh or sharp sound.
It appears on road bumps or unevenness during slow speed up to about 40kph/25mph.
The noise has not been heard over that speed even in bad bumpy roads.
List of thing I've done so far:
- Driven with empty rear compartments
- Driven with open rear door
- Checked the tightness of spare tyre
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar linkages
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar bushings
- Replaced rear axle carrier knuckle bushings
Could it be possible not coming from rear?
Should I sit in the cargo space while somebody else driving, any success with this?
What to do next?
Problem is noise that you can describe as clunk, not any harsh or sharp sound.
It appears on road bumps or unevenness during slow speed up to about 40kph/25mph.
The noise has not been heard over that speed even in bad bumpy roads.
List of thing I've done so far:
- Driven with empty rear compartments
- Driven with open rear door
- Checked the tightness of spare tyre
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar linkages
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar bushings
- Replaced rear axle carrier knuckle bushings
Could it be possible not coming from rear?
Should I sit in the cargo space while somebody else driving, any success with this?
What to do next?
#2
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I got the car driven over bumps today while I went in the cargo area to listen.
The sound comes from rear and right side. Sound is distant and feels that it comes from right rear door direction. So I doubt it could be something related to strut or it's bearing.
So my guess is that the problem could most probably be in
longitudinal suspension arm (48780A - ROD ASSY, STRUT, REAR) (also TRAILING ARM)
or if not then in
front transverse suspension arm (48710A - ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.1 RH)
Latter one do exist generally as aftermarket part but first one not easily available.
Any one ever need to replace these?
Visually they do look good in my Rx and I can't make any noise moving them with metal fork.
The sound comes from rear and right side. Sound is distant and feels that it comes from right rear door direction. So I doubt it could be something related to strut or it's bearing.
So my guess is that the problem could most probably be in
longitudinal suspension arm (48780A - ROD ASSY, STRUT, REAR) (also TRAILING ARM)
or if not then in
front transverse suspension arm (48710A - ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.1 RH)
Latter one do exist generally as aftermarket part but first one not easily available.
Any one ever need to replace these?
Visually they do look good in my Rx and I can't make any noise moving them with metal fork.
Last edited by rns; 06-27-15 at 06:57 AM.
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I tried to get right arm out but couldn't get the bolt out from the bushing in axle carrier.
To be able to have straight hitting I would need to remove brake disc and heat shield which means also removing of the axle bearing....
Probably the inner metallic tube in the bushing has rusted together with the bolt and when I turned the bolt fast with pneumatic bolt gun I could smell burn rubber.
I found these bushings existing with codes Febest tab-300 and 48-110059.
Does these exist from Toyota also as some other model part like other bushings?
Has somebody replaced these? How to replace them as they don't look like others?
Last edited by rns; 07-08-15 at 03:29 PM.
#4
Driver School Candidate
I have a clunking problem also.
I have replaced both struts, sway links and sway bushings already.
I ordered longitudinal and trailing arms from Pep Boys - very inexpensive @ about $25 each shipped.
I also ordered knuckle bushings - but not the front Febest-300. Hopefully that one is still good.
I will be tackling this weekend or next weather permitting.
I have replaced both struts, sway links and sway bushings already.
I ordered longitudinal and trailing arms from Pep Boys - very inexpensive @ about $25 each shipped.
I also ordered knuckle bushings - but not the front Febest-300. Hopefully that one is still good.
I will be tackling this weekend or next weather permitting.
#5
The rear brake calipers can rattle on my 400h at that speed. To test, next time on a downward hill, put the shifter in N to disable regenerative braking. Then gently press the brake pedal and see if the noise goes away. Grab the caliper through the wheel and you can see if it has play.
To fix, remove the slide pins and put some caliper grease on them.
To fix, remove the slide pins and put some caliper grease on them.
#6
Driver School Candidate
The rear brake calipers can rattle on my 400h at that speed. To test, next time on a downward hill, put the shifter in N to disable regenerative braking. Then gently press the brake pedal and see if the noise goes away. Grab the caliper through the wheel and you can see if it has play.
To fix, remove the slide pins and put some caliper grease on them.
To fix, remove the slide pins and put some caliper grease on them.
It is normally heard when off of the throttle - coasting. The same road when on the throttle will exhibit almost no noise. Something in the suspension is moving.
#7
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Wheel bearing!! I got broken right rear wheel bearing that caused the clunking noise
How can be so different symptoms as I had broken left one couple of months ago.
There was not free play in the right wheel while car was lifted unlike the left one. When rocking the car heavily on the place either from the wheel or the rear coil spring I could hear the clunk.
I noticed the bearing only when I was about to replace rear trailing arm bushing in the hub carrier after removing brake disc.
So I blamed the bushings for nothing
So you suffer also from clunking noise.
What that means "off of the throttle - coasting"?
Do you get the sound when you lift your foot from the gas pedal? Or is it constant while engine breaking?
Do you have any sound when you push on heavily?
Trailing arm could be the first choice as the longitudinal forces affect it.
But it could also be something to do with the torque while push and release, either differential attachments and the subframe or even the propeller shaft support bearings.
How can be so different symptoms as I had broken left one couple of months ago.
There was not free play in the right wheel while car was lifted unlike the left one. When rocking the car heavily on the place either from the wheel or the rear coil spring I could hear the clunk.
I noticed the bearing only when I was about to replace rear trailing arm bushing in the hub carrier after removing brake disc.
So I blamed the bushings for nothing
What that means "off of the throttle - coasting"?
Do you get the sound when you lift your foot from the gas pedal? Or is it constant while engine breaking?
Do you have any sound when you push on heavily?
Trailing arm could be the first choice as the longitudinal forces affect it.
But it could also be something to do with the torque while push and release, either differential attachments and the subframe or even the propeller shaft support bearings.
Last edited by rns; 07-23-15 at 03:03 PM.
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#8
Driver School Candidate
I was able to get in there this weekend...
My knuckle bushings are definitely bad. I was able to move the inside around by hand. This is probable what is causing most of the noise.
I was unable to remove them using the Harbor Freight joint kit. It was too awkward to use horizontally by myself.
If anyone has tips/tools used to remove these it would be appreciated.
My knuckle bushings are definitely bad. I was able to move the inside around by hand. This is probable what is causing most of the noise.
I was unable to remove them using the Harbor Freight joint kit. It was too awkward to use horizontally by myself.
If anyone has tips/tools used to remove these it would be appreciated.
#9
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Clunking noise reappered!!!
This time I took it straight to garage who can run suspension test and shake the car sideways.
Knucle bushing from forward transverse suspension arm (48710A - ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.1 RH) had failed!!
I already replaced this part but unlike in the rear NO.2, I did not use original bushing 42210-20010 but Febest part TAB-166Z. So it failed after 2 months of driving...
This time I took it straight to garage who can run suspension test and shake the car sideways.
Knucle bushing from forward transverse suspension arm (48710A - ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.1 RH) had failed!!
I already replaced this part but unlike in the rear NO.2, I did not use original bushing 42210-20010 but Febest part TAB-166Z. So it failed after 2 months of driving...
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: CO
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Sounds like I am suffering from the same clunk you had. I found a YouTube video of a mechanic replacing the whole axle carrier assembly, rather than just pressing out the old bushing and pressing in the new.
#12
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Join Date: Jan 2021
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More info please!
hi, could you possibly send me a deeper description of the issue you were having? I’m having some clunking over low speed bumps and wobbling during high speed turns (only right turns) and I’m wondering if I have the same issue. Any video or recordings by chance?
Clunking noise reappered!!!
This time I took it straight to garage who can run suspension test and shake the car sideways.
Knucle bushing from forward transverse suspension arm (48710A - ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.1 RH) had failed!!
I already replaced this part but unlike in the rear NO.2, I did not use original bushing 42210-20010 but Febest part TAB-166Z. So it failed after 2 months of driving...
This time I took it straight to garage who can run suspension test and shake the car sideways.
Knucle bushing from forward transverse suspension arm (48710A - ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.1 RH) had failed!!
I already replaced this part but unlike in the rear NO.2, I did not use original bushing 42210-20010 but Febest part TAB-166Z. So it failed after 2 months of driving...
#13
Driver School Candidate
I've had the same problem with the "clunk" from the rear passenger side of my '07 RX350 for about a year now. Decided to fix it before I made a trip up to Canada in December so I installed new rear struts (Munroe Quick Struts) and that didn't fix it. Next I installed new sway bar links and that hasn't fixed it. So I took it into a shop yesterday and they said it needed new struts all the way around, and new trailing links and trailing arms. I think I will do the trailing links and trailing arms myself, but I haven't found ANY information on how to do that for a 2nd Gen RX350 and very little information for other makes/models. I figure I'll do the sway bar bushings while I'm under there as well. Oh and I've been generally happy with the Quickstruts, but when I got to Canada and it was -40C up there it sounded like I was running a can recycling center in the back of my car. So cold temps definitely affected those stuts.
#14
mine wound up being the driver side rear upper Strut Tower insulator, replaced struts with Monroe Quik Struts, noise gone, I did replace other parts first but didn't help,2007 RX350
Not sure if your Year model has rear struts or shocks
Not sure if your Year model has rear struts or shocks
#15
Driver School Candidate
That was my first thought as well. I replaced both struts in November (about 4 months ago). But the clunk didn't go away. Thanks for the reply though, it helps to think about it.