Vibration at higher speed. Bad Wheel Bearing?
#46
Last shot was the new passenger side bearing bolt. It was new from Toyota and had this rubber piece at the end of it.
New OEM snap ring and bolt, $5 at Toyota, $15 at Lexus. Amazing markup.
Also Toyota new OEM shafts, $600 each, Lexus, $800 each!!!
New OEM snap ring and bolt, $5 at Toyota, $15 at Lexus. Amazing markup.
Also Toyota new OEM shafts, $600 each, Lexus, $800 each!!!
#48
FAIL.......
Got it all put back together, topped off the tranny with Toyota WS fluid and went for a test drive. Nice and slow, running good and no sounds. Drive down a few more blocks slowly accelerating, all good. Give it more juice, nice and solid and drives good. So after about 10 blocks decide to turn around and head home. Did a u turn and gave it some more gas, about 1/2 throttle and then I hear a "pop" and a wizzing sound. ON main road so do another quick u turn and was able to coast to a side street. Put it in park, and the car keeps moving forward.
Put it in drive and touch the gas, some wizzing sound again. So frustrating!!
So I walk home and get the Blazer, jack and tools. Pop the wheels off both sides, turn and everything looks fine and rotates OK. Check other side, that also spins fine.
At one point only one wheel spun and the other did not.....then I was able to get both to spin once I moved it back and forth.
Nothing looks obviously broken so I'm really at a loss right now. So bummed and wife is leaving town tomorrow for a week. I'm going to have to try and tow it back to our house now. Can I even do this?? In neutral??
I need help!!
Got it all put back together, topped off the tranny with Toyota WS fluid and went for a test drive. Nice and slow, running good and no sounds. Drive down a few more blocks slowly accelerating, all good. Give it more juice, nice and solid and drives good. So after about 10 blocks decide to turn around and head home. Did a u turn and gave it some more gas, about 1/2 throttle and then I hear a "pop" and a wizzing sound. ON main road so do another quick u turn and was able to coast to a side street. Put it in park, and the car keeps moving forward.
Put it in drive and touch the gas, some wizzing sound again. So frustrating!!
So I walk home and get the Blazer, jack and tools. Pop the wheels off both sides, turn and everything looks fine and rotates OK. Check other side, that also spins fine.
At one point only one wheel spun and the other did not.....then I was able to get both to spin once I moved it back and forth.
Nothing looks obviously broken so I'm really at a loss right now. So bummed and wife is leaving town tomorrow for a week. I'm going to have to try and tow it back to our house now. Can I even do this?? In neutral??
I need help!!
#49
Did you remember to put the clips back on the half shafts? Do they need to be turned a particular direction when you clip them back on? Sounds like you need to pull them back out and take a look (sadly). See if you can spot the damage. Maybe wife can help you tow home or you can maybe use AAA?
#50
Sorry for not responding earlier, I have done everything you did on my car. I never had the problem on the driver side you did. In terms of the last issue....all I can think of is the retainer clips did you reinstall those? Or the driver side could be bad allowing for the axle to pull out of the housing.
Last edited by alchemist; 10-24-16 at 07:58 PM.
#51
Sorry I just saw you said the car moves forward after in park. If the axle is out of tje housing it could cause this. Or... This could be a symptom of broken parking pawl...
http://myautomatictransmission.com/t...rking-pawl.htm
http://myautomatictransmission.com/t...rking-pawl.htm
Last edited by alchemist; 10-25-16 at 05:02 AM.
#52
I looked and the snap ring is still there. I bought a new snap ring and carrier bearing bolt from Toyota just to be safe.
The ONLY thing I can think of is the axle shaft on passenger side is not all the way in. I drove the shaft in until the carrier bearing was all the way into the motor mount housing. Just far enough so I could get the snap ring in. What I noticed is that the dust cap that goes into the differential was still sticking out a bit. I figured that all I had to do is tap that dust cover flush with differential and that ensured a full protection of axle shaft seal. Maybe the shaft had to be driven in more even though the carrier bearing was already seated?!?
I don' know.
If it's an open differential, and only one wheel spins, then one of them is not engaged.
The ONLY thing I can think of is the axle shaft on passenger side is not all the way in. I drove the shaft in until the carrier bearing was all the way into the motor mount housing. Just far enough so I could get the snap ring in. What I noticed is that the dust cap that goes into the differential was still sticking out a bit. I figured that all I had to do is tap that dust cover flush with differential and that ensured a full protection of axle shaft seal. Maybe the shaft had to be driven in more even though the carrier bearing was already seated?!?
I don' know.
If it's an open differential, and only one wheel spins, then one of them is not engaged.
#53
I looked and the snap ring is still there. I bought a new snap ring and carrier bearing bolt from Toyota just to be safe.
The ONLY thing I can think of is the axle shaft on passenger side is not all the way in. I drove the shaft in until the carrier bearing was all the way into the motor mount housing. Just far enough so I could get the snap ring in. What I noticed is that the dust cap that goes into the differential was still sticking out a bit. I figured that all I had to do is tap that dust cover flush with differential and that ensured a full protection of axle shaft seal. Maybe the shaft had to be driven in more even though the carrier bearing was already seated?!?
I don' know.
If it's an open differential, and only one wheel spins, then one of them is not engaged.
The ONLY thing I can think of is the axle shaft on passenger side is not all the way in. I drove the shaft in until the carrier bearing was all the way into the motor mount housing. Just far enough so I could get the snap ring in. What I noticed is that the dust cap that goes into the differential was still sticking out a bit. I figured that all I had to do is tap that dust cover flush with differential and that ensured a full protection of axle shaft seal. Maybe the shaft had to be driven in more even though the carrier bearing was already seated?!?
I don' know.
If it's an open differential, and only one wheel spins, then one of them is not engaged.
#56
#58
Terrible news. Transmission is gone. Metal shavings and clutch material found in fluid.
The cost for a used (65k) tranny and OEM axleshaft is $4200. I am devastated.
He doesn't know if the passenger side shaft is too short but he figured it might be a little....not a lot though. Just enough that it made the fluid puke out.
The cost for a used (65k) tranny and OEM axleshaft is $4200. I am devastated.
He doesn't know if the passenger side shaft is too short but he figured it might be a little....not a lot though. Just enough that it made the fluid puke out.
#59
Terrible news. Transmission is gone. Metal shavings and clutch material found in fluid.
The cost for a used (65k) tranny and OEM axleshaft is $4200. I am devastated.
He doesn't know if the passenger side shaft is too short but he figured it might be a little....not a lot though. Just enough that it made the fluid puke out.
The cost for a used (65k) tranny and OEM axleshaft is $4200. I am devastated.
He doesn't know if the passenger side shaft is too short but he figured it might be a little....not a lot though. Just enough that it made the fluid puke out.
#60
Apparently no one really re-builds these transmissions so the only option is buying a used one. Called another shop and he is $3000 with 85k tranny and aftermarket axle shaft. Obviously I'm a bit leery on the aftermarket shaft now.