"Shriek" when turning wheel over hard in the morning.
#1
"Shriek" when turning wheel over hard in the morning.
My 04 RX330 sometimes emits a loud shriek from the engine compartment when I turn the steering wheel over hard (to the stops) when first started in the morning. I think it goes away after it warms up for a few minutes. Am not 100% sure it goes away when warm because the wheel is turned hard-over only pulling out of our tight driveway; it doesn't shriek when driving around town, but then again one rarely turns the wheel hard over in normal driving.
Anyone experienced this and knows of a fix?
Anyone experienced this and knows of a fix?
#2
Check your power steering fluid level. Then inspect the rack and pinion for leaks in the system. Power steering pump could be getting old as well, but more likely the serpentine belt that drives accessories like power steering needs replacement. Check to see when it was replaced last and replace as necessary. No big deal, belts are normal maintenance. Try not to turn the wheel to lock and if so, only momentarily. At either side of lock is when the most stress is put on the system.
#3
Thanks BlackLexRX.
The power steering fluid level was indeed low, about 3/4 cm below the min level.
Instead of topping it up, I did a 70% "replacement" using the turkey baster method (suck out what you can using a turkey baster, refill with new Dexron automatic transmission fluid--this is what Lexus specs for PS fluid in the RX330), drive for a bit, turning wheels max left and right, repeat 2 more times [for a total of 3 times]).
The old fluid was very dark and dirty compared to the bright transparent red of new fluid.
Either the fluid was low or the fresh fluid helped (or both) but the "shriek" is now gone!
The power steering fluid level was indeed low, about 3/4 cm below the min level.
Instead of topping it up, I did a 70% "replacement" using the turkey baster method (suck out what you can using a turkey baster, refill with new Dexron automatic transmission fluid--this is what Lexus specs for PS fluid in the RX330), drive for a bit, turning wheels max left and right, repeat 2 more times [for a total of 3 times]).
The old fluid was very dark and dirty compared to the bright transparent red of new fluid.
Either the fluid was low or the fresh fluid helped (or both) but the "shriek" is now gone!
#4
From a DIY thread here, you can complete your PS fluid change in 20 min, and you don't need to turn the car on.
You need: 1 male to male ID 3/8 coupling, 2 or 3 feet of vinyl tubing, a bucket, rags, pliers, and about a quart of ps fluid.
1) remove the return hose, which is the hose that is higher up on the wall of the PS reservoir. block off the hole left behind, use a ID 3/8 coupling, male to male, the brass ones are cheap, and put the tube into a bucket.
2) suck the old fluid out any way you like, I have a mity vac. fill it up with new PS fluid.
3) turn the steering wheel 2x, end to end, that will pump the old fluid out and circulate the new fluid. I stopped turning the steering wheel at 2x and the res was about 1/2 empty each time (I filled it up to the top with new fluid). Took about 3x, filling the res up to get clean PS fluid flowing thru the tubing. I did jack the car front up, to make the wheel turn easier, but I don't think it's necessary.
4) put the return hose back in place, and clean up. done.
I did have a hard time removing the return hose from the res, so I took it off the mount of the engine bay wall, then I could get that return hose off easily. throw some rags under the res, in case you have a leak from the port where the return hose goes.
You need: 1 male to male ID 3/8 coupling, 2 or 3 feet of vinyl tubing, a bucket, rags, pliers, and about a quart of ps fluid.
1) remove the return hose, which is the hose that is higher up on the wall of the PS reservoir. block off the hole left behind, use a ID 3/8 coupling, male to male, the brass ones are cheap, and put the tube into a bucket.
2) suck the old fluid out any way you like, I have a mity vac. fill it up with new PS fluid.
3) turn the steering wheel 2x, end to end, that will pump the old fluid out and circulate the new fluid. I stopped turning the steering wheel at 2x and the res was about 1/2 empty each time (I filled it up to the top with new fluid). Took about 3x, filling the res up to get clean PS fluid flowing thru the tubing. I did jack the car front up, to make the wheel turn easier, but I don't think it's necessary.
4) put the return hose back in place, and clean up. done.
I did have a hard time removing the return hose from the res, so I took it off the mount of the engine bay wall, then I could get that return hose off easily. throw some rags under the res, in case you have a leak from the port where the return hose goes.
#5
Thanks numbafree. I'm handy but I'm a novice and for the sake of some wasted generic Dexron, I didn't want to risk a leak. So while I'm sure yours is a valid procedure--and I did think of doing this as well--I decided to play it safe. Nothing can really go wrong with the turkey baster method.(*)
(*) Actually, I'm embarrassed to admit that, in fact, I did screw up the baster method. I tried to get aggressive and purposefully overfilled the PS fluid reservoir to 1cm from the top after the 1st suck-out. I was trying to hit like an 80% fluid replacement (because the by-the-book-baster-method will, after 3 changes will only get you maybe 70% ). Sadly, after a drive, I was dismayed to find that PS fluid had overflowed and the area under the reservoir was dripping with ATF. Being highly flammable, the ATF had to be immediately cleaned and so I did. Lots of soap and water and agitation with a paint brush in the nooks and crannies and amongst all the piping and tubing. Not my best moment. I followed the accepted procedure for the other 2 "mini-flushes"...
(*) Actually, I'm embarrassed to admit that, in fact, I did screw up the baster method. I tried to get aggressive and purposefully overfilled the PS fluid reservoir to 1cm from the top after the 1st suck-out. I was trying to hit like an 80% fluid replacement (because the by-the-book-baster-method will, after 3 changes will only get you maybe 70% ). Sadly, after a drive, I was dismayed to find that PS fluid had overflowed and the area under the reservoir was dripping with ATF. Being highly flammable, the ATF had to be immediately cleaned and so I did. Lots of soap and water and agitation with a paint brush in the nooks and crannies and amongst all the piping and tubing. Not my best moment. I followed the accepted procedure for the other 2 "mini-flushes"...
#6
2 cars ago, I used your method to change the PSF. It's actually faster, and cleaner to do it via the DIY method I used, found on this forum. You connect the PSF return hose to the male to male connector, which in turn connects to the vinyl tubing which takes the old PSF to the bucket.
But hey, use the method you are comfortable with.
But hey, use the method you are comfortable with.
#7
I have one more car for which I need to change the PS fluid.
Is the hose that is higher up on the PS fluid reservoir always the return hose? It would seem to make sense this way. If so, the return hose is indeed quite accessible and thus easy to unhook and connect with a male-male adapter to another hose to the waste fluids bucket.
I'll look into your method for the other car (will try to verify which is the return hose on that one).
Thanks again, numbafree.
Is the hose that is higher up on the PS fluid reservoir always the return hose? It would seem to make sense this way. If so, the return hose is indeed quite accessible and thus easy to unhook and connect with a male-male adapter to another hose to the waste fluids bucket.
I'll look into your method for the other car (will try to verify which is the return hose on that one).
Thanks again, numbafree.
2 cars ago, I used your method to change the PSF. It's actually faster, and cleaner to do it via the DIY method I used, found on this forum. You connect the PSF return hose to the male to male connector, which in turn connects to the vinyl tubing which takes the old PSF to the bucket.
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