nkistner

Hi all, I have an opportunity to get a 2009 Lexus RX 350 with 124,000 miles from a family member for free, all I need to do is pay for some relatively pricey repairs. My family member already got repair quotes from the dealership, but I've never had a car before so I'm not sure whether the repairs are necessary or if this is expected. The car has been well maintained throughout its lifetime. Here are the repairs according to the dealer:

• Pump, Coolant - Replace: $1228.99
• Rack and pinion, Steering - Replace: $1814.47
• Alignment, Wheel - Four - Adjust: $129.95
• Plugs, Spark - Replace: $554.94
• Pads and Rotors Front - Replace: $591.59
• Tires - Mount and Balance: $915.48
• Splash Shield: $476.22

Total plus taxes and fees: $5930.23

Are these normal repairs for a car with this amount of mileage? Would you take the car, or is it time to just trade it in for something else? Would you get all of these repairs done or are some optional? And lastly how much money in repairs could I expect to pay for a car like this annually moving forward? Of course if it will be another $6k each year then I will pass. Thanks in advance for the help.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Splash shield and brakes are the ones you could save a good amount on and are easy to do yourself, don’t need to be mechanically inclined, just have common sense. The tires are probably Michelin’s or Bridgestones, and are great tires, but cheaper options are available. The rack and pinion and water pump are slightly high, but around what my dealer quoted. I think if you really wanted, and shopped around, you could get it all done for $3500, but everyone’s situation is different. That being said, the splash shield is way to much, and may not even necessary.

ToledoRX

No way these items are all necessary on a 8 year old Lexus with 124k miles. Tires and brakes maybe. I'm surprised the dealer didn't add Tru-Coat for $550 to that list.

Take your car to indy (independent) shop that specializes in Toyota & Lexus for an inspection.

Most of the items can be done much cheaper if you go to an indy shop anyway.

BlackLexRX

At 125k, if that car is on it's original water pump, then it needs one. 1200$ at the dealer is the going rate as the engine is dropped down with front subframe so dealer techs can access it better. You can check local indy shops for cheaper prices, but water pumps are tough to change on these cars. You need one, but the good news is, talk to the service writer or manager at the dealership and tell them: Ok so if you're dropping my engine for the water pump, can you just do the spark plugs then and limit the labor? Lexus dealer likes to go by the book and charge for everything, but if you go in there understanding the process, they will adjust to that and lower the prices. They just spit out book prices. In this case to normally access the plugs they have to remove part of the intake as bank 1 plugs are crammed up next to the fire wall. Since you need a water pump, ask them to just throw the plugs in there when the engine is out and much easier to access, and they will.
Rack and pinion failure is super common on these vehicles. Dealers type that into the computer and the book tells them to replace the unit. However, there has since been a seal kit that can be installed that cuts the cost from 1600$ to about 350$. Ask if they can do a reseal kit. Probably leaks on the passenger side, like most of them. But do something about it as you will need to steer.
Alignment price looks about right.
Tires at the dealer start at around 220$ each for 18's which looks about right, but you can get better deals at Costco, etc on tires to cut cost.
Front brake pads and rotors for 600$ is like the price for a 2017 RX350, so take it to another reputable brake shop for about half that, or do it yourself for a quarter of the cost.
That RX must be missing the under engine splash guard, which is a little odd. Who knows what happened to it. You can buy them online for about 100$, put it up on ramps or crawl underneath and bolt it on yourself. Very nontechnical.
I know some may disagree, but I have one of these vehicles and have read tons about them and have seen all these things before. Only a missing splash guard is unusual IMHO.
I'd say go for it. You cannot get these for 6k anywhere.
Good luck and Happy Holidays!

Aron9000

BTW that water pump might be just damn fine, its the gasket that needs replaced and is leaking. I drove my old 22-RE Toyota truck for 4 years and 30,000 miles with a very slightly leaky water pump seal, never overheated. Just needed to keep an eye on the coolant level, check it every week or so with the truck cold, had to add a quart of coolant/water mix into the overflow tank every couple of months.

Ngin

At 125k I would do the pump, however like said it is recommended not needed unless it is leaking. If it is leaking I cant see doing just the gaskets either, might as well do the pump. BTW you don't need to drop the engine out to do the water pump, he just being dramatic. Water pump is done in chassis.
Why does it need a rack? Dealer will replace the rack for a leaking PS hard line on the rack that is 2$ a foot at the local store. As far as I know the inner sockets are replaceable too, but like I said dealers don't like doing the small pieces.
Tires, a little tread goes a long way depending on your road conditions and weather.
Alignment a good idea any time you replace tires or do a suspension part.
I'm sure you can handle the rest

ukrkoz

OK, summing up. You need a reliable independent mechanic to ASSESS the hard to do items on the list - rack and pinion, water pump. ASSESSED, not blindly followed on dealer lead.
I did all 4 tires on wife's RX350 for $520. I see no need, outside of sheepish follow the dealer lead, reason to pay $220 for a tire when very well doing options are available for $110 each.
Brakes, rotors - it's beer case job. Find a family member or a pal with tools and arms growing out of shoulders, not glutes, and have him DIY for you. Entire brake/rotor thing should be about $120. Maybe 150.
Toyota coolant is 150 000 miles, btw, and half of it is simple drain from radiator, refill, bleed air, drive for another year, drain, refill job at the cost of coolant and a tub to drain it into.
I know this is blasphemous in Lexus ( Oh my god, it's a LUXURY vehicle!) forum but, a decent mobile mechanic will do all this for fraction of a cost in your garage. And water pump can be accessed from tire well. By a mech that is willing to do this, instead of running bill by dropping engine down.Actually, just checked with Alldata. All it takes is to remove wheel, fender cover, engine mount and be creative how to hold pump pulley in place to have it replaced.
I had spark plugs done by buddy shop on my 3.5L V6 for $200 in 1.5 hr. End of sentence.
Unless you don't care, of course, about expense. I am simply frugal.

Personally, as I can do most of those jobs DIY, I'd have bought the vehicle, pending the rest of it being in great shape.

matts6887

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I would do some searching around locally in your area to see what independent shops would charge for doing all of that and if it even needs all of that. I do all my relatively "small" stuff at a shop just down the street from me that charges way less than the dealer. However; I usually do most "bigger" stuff like brakes, etc at the dealer because while yes they are more expensive than other smaller shops around; unlike smaller shops they have courtesy vehicles which for me anyways helps out because i often dont have time to wait around for the bigger jobs as they can take a few hours or more to do. But as far as yours go; on tuesday call around to some other smaller shops in your area. You could also take it to a independent shop(s) and have them inspect it and let you know what does and doesnt need fixing etc.

BlackLexRX

I'm not being dramatic. I understand you can loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine on an angle some and cram in there to get it out, but If you take it to the dealer for a water pump, they'll drop the engine. It's how the book says to do it.
Lots of rack failure on these. Its a seal inside passenger side, not lines or sockets.

Ngin

I was referring to the dealership, when the guy told you that the engine needed to be removed. I wasn't saying you were, sorry for the confusion. Sometimes the ideas come out faster than I can type, lol. You were just repeating what the dealer said. I don't k now for a fact if they do it by the book or not. However, I've worked at Lexus before. They are not by a long shot by the book. Flat rate makes you find faster ways to do things. For instance I did a rear main seal on a RX 300 in 1.8 hours, at the time warranty called for 8.6 . needless to say I found a way to do it with the engine and trans still in the frame. the lead techs at the time were baffled after I returned the engine hanger 5 hours early. they must have had 3 guys check my work. all was good.

NVAKeith

iTrader: (1)

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Reading over this, it seems like e are scaring you away from the car, but if all you have to do is pay for the repairs, definitely buy it, and if it means having the dealer do it, It wouldn’t prevent me at least from paying to have it done.

nkistner

Thanks all.

Looking over the vehicle history, only thing that seems weird is that the front pads and rotors were changed at 47k, 70k, and 85k miles. Rear ones were also changed three times. I understand the pads, but shouldn't the rotors be lasting longer?

DennisMik

When the brake pads are replaced, the rotors should be "trued" to make sure that the rotor is not warped. This is a machining process that takes off metal. This can be done 2, maybe 3 times because there is a specific amount of metal that can be removed before the rotor is too thin for safe usage. If the brake pads were completely worn out and the rotors were damaged, that could mean automatic replacement.

At the mileages you mentioned, I doubt that the brake pads were completely worn out. So why were the rotors replaced each time? There are several reasons. 1) Time efficiency. It takes longer to machine the rotor than to replace. 2) Money. You pay by the hour for the mechanic's time. A new rotor is usually cheaper that the labor would be for the time involved to machine the rotor. 3) Social trends. The current trend picks up and exploits the "machining takes off too much metal and makes using the rotor unsafe" aspect. As I said earlier, the rotor can have some metal removed. The person machining the rotors is supposed to check the thickness of the rotor before and after machining to ensure that the rotor is still serviceable.

If you are a DIY'er, take the cotors to you local auto parts store and they will check the thickness and machine them. Or they will let you know that it is not safe to do so. If you don't work on the car, then you will have to go with what the mechanic wants to do.

nkistner

Very helpful, thanks!