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Tech says stuck pin is behind the latch mechanism whole rear hatch lock assembly needs to be replsced
Update: I went to the dealer this morning. I was able to speak to the tech, who said there are no error codes appearing, but a rod within the rear hatch release mechanism is not moving (it should move along with the hook on left shown in a previous photo after pushing the manual release lever). Because the rod is not moving, a sensor signals the computer to prevent the hatch from opening. Of course, the solution is the entire rear hatch lock assembly has to be removed and replaced. He also commented that to do so, it’s necessary to drill out some bolts. The part itself costs $364 but with labor the job will be over $1000 . I posted the pictures just to show the current view, but I can’t really see that problematic pin. [Expletives deleted]. I guess I shouldn’t have tempted fate by describing this RX’s quality as “bulletproof“ - after so many years, things may break.
Thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions earlier, I’ll let you know how it works out, but it will probably take until after Thanksgiving for me to schedule fhe repair.
There was one thing about what the dealer said they had to do to fix the hatch problem that was bothering me. It was that they were going to drill out some bolts in order to fix the problem. And we don't want to mention the labor charge.
My thinking was that why don't they unbolt the power operating arm that comes from the motor where it attaches to the hatch, press the unlatch arm in the bottom of the hatch and open the hatch?
So today was a nice day here and I went out to my car and tried it. Without ever having done it before, I had the hatch open in 15 minutes. And I was working from inside the car with the hatch closed.
Here is what I did. The arm from the motor that opens the door attaches to the top left corner of the hatch. You can see that there is a removable cover over the arm attaching point.
See photo #1.
There are 3 snap arms that hold this cover on. Put your screwdriver in the side of the cover towards the roof, the side towards the center of the car. Pop the cover loose. You can wiggle the cover all the way off with your hand. See photo #2.
You will see that the arm from the motor is held onto the hatch by 2 bolts. The lower bolt is partially behind the trim panel, but we are dealing with flexible plastic, so no problem. The bolts have a 10mm head on them. See photo # 3.
If you have an offset box wrench, the "hidden" bolt is real easy. See photo #4.
Assuming you don't have an offset wrench, you can still get the bolt off with a socket. Remember - we are dealing with cheap-azz flexible plastic. Pry up the edge of the trim panel that is on the hatch, the side towards the outside of the car. See photo #5.
As you hold the trim panel out, put the 10mm socket on the bolt head. See photo #6.
Using a short extension on the socket wrench, put the socket wrench into the socket and break the bolt loose. See photo #7.
Just break the bolt loose, DO NOT try to remove the bolt all the way with the socket because this will break the trim panel. Use an open end wrench to take the bolt all the way out. Then you use the socket wrench to remove the other bolt.
Now that you have the 2 bolts out, the arm is loose and all you have to do is pop the little cover off that is on the bottom center of the hatch, push the lever to the left and the hatch opens. Now that the hatch is open, you have access to the lower bolts on the latch mechanism that I am assuming the dealer was talking about drilling out. Take off the bottom half of the hatch trim panel and you can remove the other bolts that hold the latch mechanism inside the hatch and remove it.
I'm thinking that if I have the replacement latch mechanism in my hand, it would take maybe an hour to replace it, start to finish. Probably less time if I was really experienced.
** CAUTION **
One big caution though. If you have the arm from the motor detached and you go to close the hatch, the arm will not go in its opening by itself. It will sit on the top edge of the trim and break it if you slam the hatch. You will have to be inside the car and guide it as you pull the hatch closed.
Hi Dennis, many thanks for trying and documenting all that! I am also not very happy with the idea of them drilling out bolts. But I’m confused with your kind suggestion, as I dont think the problem is with the upper power arm. It’s that that the LOWER latch doesn't release. Now that the rear hatch inside lower panel is off, I crawled inside again to see if the lower mechanism problem was any more visible when I pushed the remote release button, the upper power arm motor started, pushed the rear hatch up and out just a little bit, then stopped and reset (like a slipping clutch). In terms of movement, The rear hatch budged a bit on the right side. it looked like the lower latch mechanism (which connects the rear hatch bottom to the body) is jammed, even though I can move the manual release lever to the left. or do I misunderstand your point about the effect of disconnecting the upper power arm? I don’t see how that would release the lower latch mechanism. The way the mechanic explained is that there’s some kind of pin hidden behind the manual release lever which is not moving, hence keeping the latch hook shut. But they could be BSing me, too, although i havent run into that before with them.
I sincerely appreciste your time, testing, documentation and suggestions!
i would the suggestion posted by Dennis. It is easy and you have nothing to lose.. The part of the mechanism you are disconnecting could give the problem you have..
After reading your post #16 after you talked with the tech at the dealer, my thinking is that they are intending to replace the latch/lock assembly that is in the bottom center of the hatch. That is your comment on one of the photos. To replace this assembly, you need to have the hatch open because there are 2 bolts that are installed from the outside of the hatch on the bottom edge. Without the hatch being open, one would have to grind/drill out these 2 bolts, hence my crusade to see if the hatch could be opened.
Back in post #4 you said that the hatch will lift up maybe a centimeter and then re-close when you try to operate the hatch. You basically say the same thing again in post #20. The arm that comes from the motor that would normally open the hatch has a tremendous mechanical advantage in order for that small, wimpy motor to lift a 300 pound hatch, but unfortunately the mechanical advantage in not a 2 way street. For you to move that arm when the motor is not spinning requires a herculean force. You discovered that when you tried to open the hatch after I told you how to try it.
So the next logical step (logical to me, anyway) is to detach the motor arm from the door. And it turns out that it is a relatively easy thing to do. Once you have the arm disconnected, you press the lever on the lock mechanism in the hatch like you did in post #4, step 2 and you can push the hatch open with very little effort.
Perhaps you are thinking that the motor for raising the hatch is also responsible for operating the latch mechanism in the hatch. That is not the case. Those are 2 separate, independent functions that work in co-ordination with each other. I bet you can open the hatch after you detach the arm from the hatch.
I went on e-bay and searched for "lexus 69350-0E020" and there are used ones starting at $71. You can buy new ones on Amazon for $335.
Thanks again, Dennis. Very helpful explanations and photos. You’re right, the lock assembly is what they want to drill out and replace; I understand that’s a different mechanism than the power door opener up top. I probably overstated the actual movement of the door when I said a centimeter, but it does move a bit sometimes, indicating to me the power door motor tries, but enounters the jammed door and a clutch mechanism slips. I will try disconnecting the power door opener per your suggestion - However, I am rushing to pack for an extended overseas biz trip, so will have to postpone this until later.
Again, sincere thanks for your time and patience. We will see if its the upper power motor or the lower lock assembly.
Hello gents. Turns out that the upper arm / motor was not the culprit. The lower lock assembly had seized. The dealer took it out and replaced it with a new assembly. I have the old assembly in a bag, but cannot see or determine what part(s) failed. The repair cost over $1000.
Is there any point in contacting Lexus HQ about this failure and costly repair? Granted, this 2008 car is well out of warranty, but only has 88k mi., always garaged, and the hatch has not been used much. I’m curious as to why the latch assembly seized, and in such a way that prevented opening the hatch for repairs. Seems like a design flaw, but I’m not sure lexus HQ would be sympathetic enough to take any remedial action. Anyone have encouraging experience complaining to Lexus HQ?
Separately, the “shiv” inserted in the rear light appeared to be a random piece of plastic, which had no effect.
Next, I will attempt to replace the struts myself.
Many THANKS everyone, especially Dennis, for your time and helpful suggestions.
View 1 of the failed latch assembly The manual release could be pushed left, but did not release the latch. View2 of the failed latch assembly
11-06-19, 07:10 AM
