Rngr29

I am moving on from my 2003 Subaru Outback and looking forward to joining the CL community. Looking to spend $7,000-9,000 on an RX 350 or 330. Looks like for my price range I can get older with low miles, or newer with higher miles. For example:

2008 RX 350, 157k miles, $6200 (link to ad if you're curious)
or
2005 RX 330, 100k miles, $7000 (link to ad if you're curious)

I love bells and whistles, which would indicate getting a newer car (they wouldn’t have had time to stop working yet... right?), but the higher miles might suggest there will be reliability issues…

I guess I’m asking which tends to fail first—electronic fancy interior features, or engine mechanicals?

joedaddy1

iTrader: (1)

At this point, both areas have a good chance to be worn out.

These are both old cars at 15% of their original cost. You’ll have to spend $$$ to get them up to speed.

make sure timing belt is done.

my vote is on the 350. Much better engine.

Mesquite77

+1 RX350, plus it has a timing chain which is very long life, whereas 330 has a belt which should have been changed by now, I would check...

There are a lot of "mechanical" plastic parts on cars these days in engine bay, so newer years over lower miles, plus a car that sits a lot is no better than one being driven regularly, IMO. I.e., A/C and oil seals need some lubrication they get from being used.

evident

350 all the way. that engine is still used in most modern lexus vehicles and is very good.

Rngr29

Thank you everyone for your responses. 350 it is. Mesquite77 also made a good point:

stupenal

I got my 07 rx350 recently and decided on the rx360 over the rx330 for that exact reason. The 2gr-fe was used in a lot of Toyota/Lexus models through very recently, and the latest versions are still similar but with direct instead of port injection. It's a well known engine with a strong history of reliability outside of some have leaky timing chain cover seal, which requires engine removal to repair.

I test drove a lower mileage rx350 - 115k miles vs the one I bought with 165k. The lower mileage one felt less "tight", and was in rougher shape. Both owned and cared for by owners who were up to date on regular maintenance. Point is, I wouldn't worry about mileage as much as just overall condition of the car. The biggest thing with buying a used car is that there will always be a risk, even with solid prior owner maintenance care. I just choose to buy from the most trustworthy appearing person as you can reduce the risk that they aren't selling you something with known issues. You can still get bit by an unknown issue that pops up down the road but that applies to all used cars.

lexsc4

RX350 all the way. (My wife's 08 RX350 134K miles still runs/shift like a champ).

Keep in mind that at 157K miles, most likely you will need to spend some money to get it up to shape. For example, spark plugs if it has not bee changed (this is gonna cost you). water pump maybe on its way out, transmission fluid may need a few drained/refilled..........keep up the maintanenance and the RX350 will go 250K miles.

2008 RX 350, 157k miles, $6200 (link to ad if you're curious)

matts6887

I would agree; 350 all the way because u don’t have to worry about replacing a timing belt as it’s a chain on the 350 which is what I have. I would say definitely the 350 is the better route to go.

Rngr29

Thanks. This confirms my intention to buy from a private person (and a serious test drive including a "feel", not just a quick drive around the block) is really important). I know there's always going to be a risk, and I will ask the owner if I can "borrow" it to have my garage look at it. But I know local garages can't predict everything.

I already know to check for rubber vs. metal oil line, and some coolant leakage. Dealers are very good at hiding at some things (like transmission issues), this is what I am trying to avoid with the garage check-out, with a list of known things to look out for.

Actually, just now I've decided to do a couple test drives with 350s I have no intention of buying, to see what things sound like, so I might learn what sounds
'right' and 'wrong.' I'm a bit of a car hypochondriac, and have found a few issues with my Subaru just by saying to my mechanic that 'something sounds different'. Sometimes said things were little, but sometimes they were big...

Jared96

Last year I sold my 2004 RX330 with 92k miles and bought a 2008 RX350 with 191k miles. Yes... you read that correct. I bought Vehicle with 100k more miles on it than my old car.

They are virtually identical in appearance. Same olive green. Same HID AFS lights. Same interior. Only difference is the 2008 has navigation and back up camera and Bluetooth.

The reason for getting the car with 100k more miles is simple: Repair costs. (Did I just throw most of you for a loop? &#128514 Let me explain. My 2004 was facing timing belt replacement, rack and pinion replacement, all four struts were worn out, dashboard was cracked, brakes were in need of attention, plugs needed to be change (rough idle), and it had an evap leak in the charcoal canister throwing the check engine light, VSC light and TRAC off light.

The previous owner of the 2008 had replaced the following only 10k miles prior to me buying: All four struts and sway bar links, brakes on all four corners, valve cover gaskets and spark plugs, fuel pump, dash board (under warranty extension), all four tires, AC compressor and belt tensioner, idler pulleys (x2), battery, trans fluid & filter. Her husband kept all of the service records of the above mentioned repairs along with every service record from day one when they bought the car new and included them in the sale of the car.

Toyota/Lexus products last forever with proper maintenance and care. That’s a well established fact. And I couldn’t be happier with my purchase. Identical looking car, but with almost every major repair already completed.

In the last year of ownership, I’ve put about 15k miles on it with out an issue.

A lot of you can take this tip: a lot of older cars with 100k to 150k miles, the owners are likely getting rid of them due to the cost of wearable items. Suspension, steering, braking you get the idea. So more than likely, you the prospective buyer will be faced with replacing said items. If you get one with more mileage than that on it, the owner was likely committed to the car and did whatever repairs necessary to keep it on the road to that 200k mike Mark.

With 205,640 miles now on my odometer, I am Still happy as ever and haven’t had a lick of trouble with this car. It drives like a new one, doesn’t burn or leak any oil, gets 26-27 mpg highway at 75, and still looks amazing. Paint is deep and reflective, no dents or door dings, interior is flawless, no rips, tears or cracks in the leather, and everything works. Except drivers front window randomly decides at times that it doesn’t want to finish rolling up all the way in AUTO mode. I’m convinced it’s something to do with the anti-pinch feature. Pulling away from a drive through, hit the auto up and it rolls up halfway before stopping and immediately rolling back down. I have Manually hold the switch in the up position to have it roll up. Since it only does this once in a blue moon, it’s not a serious problem, more of an annoyance when it decides to act up.

Point of this book being, get the higher mileage 350. You won’t regret it.

Rngr29

Thank you for taking the time, your write up was so helpful. Now I feel better about checking out a 2008 with 157k miles. I will still have to check repair records, have my mechanic check it out, etc.

Margate330

Down here in south Fl I am sceptical of any RX330 with 100k.

The RX350 is probably actual mileage at 157K.

Here is why.

I have caught several car flippers and dishonest small dealers who rolled back the odometer on RX330's to increase the value and they always roll it back to 100K so the RX330 you saw with low miles may have more than you think.

True story-

One I caught because I ran a Carfax and an Autocheck. Carfax showed no accidents and last mileage was reported many years ago but the Autocheck said the car was run thru an auction with Severe Frame Damage and reported 170k miles a month before I went to see it. This one was listed with 101K miles.

Another one I caught I ran a Carfax and his car had 160k miles but his ad and pics of his odometer showed 92k. I called him and told him and he continued to advertise the car with 92k and hung up on me.

Another one I caught also rolled back the odometer to 100k and the Carfax and Autocheck had almost nothing reported except for one repair shop entry so I called them to see what work was done and he said at 191K miles it had brakes done and he knew the owner of the car and her whole family since it was new and the lady had sold it a month before- so basically I was dealing with a car flipper who rolled back the odometer and was selling it on Craigslist in previous owners name. He rolled it back 91K miles!

I'd get the RX350 unless you are dealing with a reputable dealer or private owner who can prove he owns the car and has service records with an RX330 with 100k miles.

Rngr29

Wow, this is really good information. I never really thought odometer roll-backs were real (or that they were done in the past, but not any more). Seems like they really are still a current, real risk. Thank you.

bluegene

Disagree with some of the assessments here. You want to get the vehicle with the best service history.
Also since engine aside the RX330 and RX350 are virtually identical, for greater reliability and lower cost of repairs the RX330 is better.

The RX330 MZ-FE engine has been around since 1993 ending mass production in 2010. All the kinks were worked out by 2004-2006.
The RX350 GR-FE engine debuted in 2004. It was still a relatively new in 2007-2009. The argument the 2GR-FE engine is still around does not benefit you rather owners today.

Although it's rare for timing chains to wear the guides, seals, and tensioners will need replacement on the RX350. Search 2GR-FE chain clatter.
The RX350 water pump is known to be unreliable and is buried deep underneath the engine. Search 2GR-FE water pump failure.
The oil lines you know about. What you do not know is if they were fixed prior to leaking and overheating the engine. This was a major issue for Toyota vehicles especially 2007-2009.

The RX330 needs a timing belt effectively every 120K miles. You just need to verify that it was done. Both the belt and water pump are known to be extremely reliable and cheap to replace.
Regarding odometer rollback. Do not doubt it but it can be done with any vehicle with enough effort. Check your Carfax/Title and buy from a reputable new car dealer or private owner.

Finally a thought on Toyota reliability overall. 2007-2009 saw a decline in quality due undoubtedly to pressures from the global economic recession. I recall there was also an article about this when Akio Toyoda was announced as CEO essentially blaming it on the outgoing leadership.

cdnewton

Concur with bluegene -- I would look for an RX that is in the best physical/mechanical shape with the best price. The 3.3L is an extremely reliable engine and the timing belt cost isn't that bad of a price -- w/o the water pump, it runs ~$275 every 120k; I have it done at the same time as the plugs. The manual for the RX330 "recommends" premium fuel vs the RX350 which (according to members on this site) "requires" premium fuel, thus if you run 87 octane in the RX330, that will save you at the pump. Also, I think this was an issue with all 2004-2009 models (for sure it was an issue with the 2004-2006 models), make sure to have the steering rack checked out as it is costly.

Our RX330 just turned 250,000 miles and we hope to take it to 500,000 miles.

Good luck with your search.