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Did you mean by jacking it for the tune up job or the vvt hose job?
Never watched any videos to be honest.
I’d understand if it was the vvt hose to creat more clearance.
But when i did mg Dad’s 07, i ddnt use a jack.
It was a tight job but i got it done.
If i were to jack it, i’d loosen up the engine mount on the pass wheelwell to relieve some tension when jacking it.
Apologies if i misinterpret your post.
i was just talking about the spark plug job.
No need to move the engine for swapping the rear head vvt line......There should be a w/p swap in here somewhere. I'd also drain the coolant as well.....
First of all, I would recommend that you log on to www.drivers.lexus.com, create yourself a free account so you can look at the service history of the car.
The VVTi oil line is rubber, there is no metal line for that, so it is possible that the VVTi extended warranty was performed.
The replacement oil cooler line is metal, so you probably should replace the existing rubber one. Lexus has a kit containing the metal pipe and the 2 gaskets. It is part number 04004-29131. The best price I have found is at McGeorge Toyota in Richmond VA. It is less expensive than the one sold by rock auto that does not include the gaskets. https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.c...ler-0400429131
This is the video I watched for changing the oil cooler line. It's not perfect but it is good enough. You will need an E8 Star socket for this job. www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEAk77WDLwI
Jacking up the oil pan is not necessary, nor productive for changing the spark plugs. In order to jack up the engine via the oil pan, you need to unbolt the engine mounts. Unbolting the engine mounts is not a fun job. Then there is the issue of raising the engine up that will reduce the all ready limited space you have to access the spark plugs. Just don't do it.
Removing the plenum chamber that has the wiper motor and operating linkage in it is a requirement as far as I'm concerned and will give you all the room you need. It doesn't take that long, just be careful with the weatherstrip, it has a strange way of attaching. Some people have stated that by removing the plenum, you don't need to remove the UIM. Perhaps you can, but you will have a lot of room if you remove the UIM.
This was my basic guide for doing the spark plugs. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-2...ug-change.html
Other than it does not say to remove the plenum, there is one mistake, probably a typo. It says to use a 13 mm wrench to remove the UIM support brackets. It should be 12 mm.
First of all, I would recommend that you log on to www.drivers.lexus.com, create yourself a free account so you can look at the service history of the car.
The VVTi oil line is rubber, there is no metal line for that, so it is possible that the VVTi extended warranty was performed.
The replacement oil cooler line is metal, so you probably should replace the existing rubber one. Lexus has a kit containing the metal pipe and the 2 gaskets. It is part number 04004-29131. The best price I have found is at McGeorge Toyota in Richmond VA. It is less expensive than the one sold by rock auto that does not include the gaskets. https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.c...ler-0400429131
This is the video I watched for changing the oil cooler line. It's not perfect but it is good enough. You will need an E8 Star socket for this job. www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEAk77WDLwI
Jacking up the oil pan is not necessary, nor productive for changing the spark plugs. In order to jack up the engine via the oil pan, you need to unbolt the engine mounts. Unbolting the engine mounts is not a fun job. Then there is the issue of raising the engine up that will reduce the all ready limited space you have to access the spark plugs. Just don't do it.
Removing the plenum chamber that has the wiper motor and operating linkage in it is a requirement as far as I'm concerned and will give you all the room you need. It doesn't take that long, just be careful with the weatherstrip, it has a strange way of attaching. Some people have stated that by removing the plenum, you don't need to remove the UIM. Perhaps you can, but you will have a lot of room if you remove the UIM.
This was my basic guide for doing the spark plugs. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-2...ug-change.html
Other than it does not say to remove the plenum, there is one mistake, probably a typo. It says to use a 13 mm wrench to remove the UIM support brackets. It should be 12 mm.
dennis thnx. i called the dealer and gave them the vin. the vvt replacement is apparently not a solid steel line? anyway this vehicle has been done.
oil cooler hasnt. ive ordered the part and will get it done. thnx
yes thats what i was missing. u need to push this bolt in, then bring it around the ac line thats a long sucker
Thank you for the pics like to see more.
I haven't done one on this model but enjoying the walkthru.
PS- I've heard people easily strip the water pump bolts and other small bolts in this area.
Here is some torque specs- only 9ft lbs on wp bolts if I'm reading this right.
margate, thanks. appreciate that heads up. i could tell it was very low torque when i broke it free with a small 1foot wratchet.
i suspect the first number is newton meters and the following bracketed numbers are a range of inch pounds (which is foot lbs divided by 12).
i will check on my torque wrench.
so far, this job is supremely easy compared to working on my typical patients, c4 corvettes of the tpi and lt5 variety.
i will say that there a couple things that *need* to happen in order for the job to be done easily.
first and foremost, jack the engine after the top end easy stuff has been disconnected. it was all of 8 bolts from the BOTTOM to allow the engine to raise 3 inches and that allowed everything else to be done easily.
i had reservations about jacking the engine and shouldnt have. super easy.
step one in my opinion should be remove the 3 sets of engine mount bolts, set the jack with piece of 2x4 on the rear flat part of the oil pan, open the petcock to begin draining, then begin top end assembly. by the time you are done that it will have finished draining and u can jack the engine. note u will see others who remove the one nut at the top for the engine mount. I chose to ho this route because the video ive been watching did and he appears to be at a dealership.
there is the usual slowdowns from “boy i wish i had a better tool for this job” but thats normal for any job until you have accumulated a massive assortment.
the waterpump pulley is totally fubar on this car!!!! it has so much play!!! i cannot believe it wasnt making vibrations or noise.
i suspect the first number is newton meters and the following bracketed numbers are a range of inch pounds (which is foot lbs divided by 12).
Hi vivingtrad I think ur right about the first number- 93.8 in/lbs / 12= 7.85ft/lbs and the Water Inlet is only 102.7 / 12= 8.5 ft/lbs.
Barely over finger tight. lol
PS- Ok just wondering you said some people remove only the top mount bolts others remove the mount bottom bolts- you said you removed 8 bolts-
so are you saying you removed the bottom ones? I remove the bottom ones on the RX330 and works well but this is different engine design so just wondering.
Ok in looking at the manual for anyone doing this job I noticed something that could cause a fail on this job. Plz see notes below especially bolt C.
thnx for posting this.
1344 is blue loctite which i will use.
but for A bolts, mine had grey thread sealant on them. here is a photo. my plan was to put them back in same as i found them, with thread sealant. there is no mention at all of applying thread sealant on bolts
im trying to figure why oil would be bad.
i was just about to post these pics of these.
This is my a bolt. It came out with gray thread sealant on it
mine had grey thread sealant on them. here is a photo. my plan was to put them back in same as i found them, with thread sealant. there is no mention at all of applying thread sealant on bolts
I have no idea maybe someone knows?
RTV for water pumps or equalivellent on the threads of water pump bolts is what I've always used but not locktite.