VikingTrad

Hi all. Moms 2007 rx400h was hit and written off. Mom was fine.

We replaced it the other day with a 2007 rx350.

it has 118146 miles on it. we do not know history but it appears very clean.

I have a lift and i am an “enthusiast mechanic” and i have a 2 week window as they just left to spain for a trip.

So!

here is what ive read so far:

- vvt screens?
- vvt hoses check for rubber replace with metal
- power steering check for rubber replace with metal
- oil cooler replace with metal.

seems there is a common theme haha.

Thank You in advance for any and all things to check and replace with preventative maintenance as the ethos. Cheers

Vikingtrad3r (couldnt use more than 10 characters!)

VikingTrad

at the tire shop installing fresh winter tires for mom and had a look under thier lift. no oil leaks but do have small coolant front passenger side.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

^Almost 100% that the leak is the waterpump.

Make sure the oil hose wasn't changed under a recall early on in the cars life. As for VVT screens and hoses, I don't recall those being issues unless they have issues.

As for PM around that mileage I would do;
-Simple drain and fill on transmission fluid (I've switched from draining underneath, to using a pump to suck fluid through the dipstick tube, much cleaner method, although I'm sure I get less out)
-Same for power steering fluid and brake fluid (I usually just do the turkey baster method)
-Cabin and air filter
- Sparkplugs are due at 120k and kind of a pain.
- Rear differential fluid and front transfer case drain and fill
-Coolant flush

Thats all that really comes to mind. Basically change the fluids, but your "big ticket" items should be/are the waterpump and the sparkplugs.

I know the dealer network is in Montana, so maybe it won't be as helpful, but if you go to mylexus.com; create an account; enter the vin under the owners section; you will be able to see any dealer service that was done on the car. Great tool for buying used Lexus.

VikingTrad

excellent rxgs thank you for taking time to respond.

Can you clarify that we DO want the oil cooler lines to be replaced ? Or that we do NOT want them to have been replaced?

I was a bit uncertain with what you were saying there.


edit: OH, i see, you are saying it may have already been done so i may not need to. 10-4.

Margate330

Hi vikingtrad, Can I add doing a full live data scan and check your fuel trims, etc look ok, and maybe jack the front wheels and feel for play in suspension- might be ok at that mileage, I'm at 151k and needing struts and already done tie rods on passenger side.

PS: you can always pull the VVT screens and oil cap and look for gunk but as previous poster said if regular oil changes were done they should look good and hopefully not a prob.

VikingTrad

Thank you Margate.

I will definitely get a scanner and check fuel trims.

I will inspect suspension components and wheel earings as im quite sure i hear a growl from rear. better not be the diff!!!!

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Rear wheel bearing failures are fairly common. Replaced both on our 2008 at 86k miles with timkens. Almost double that, we are still good. Fortunately, they are assemblies, and not something that need to be pressed in.

VikingTrad

were you able to move the wheel back and forth at 12 and 6 position to diagnose both rear wheel bearings?

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Nope, wheels were solid, only indication was the noise

VikingTrad

ok, so i will lift the rx, see if there is any play in the rear diff input shaft and drain and fill. if it looks good, i will assume rear wheel bearings and include both in my rockauto order.

Id like to get this squared away today in terms of ordering parts.

Felix

[QUOTE=VikingTrad;10730062]excellent rxgs thank you for taking time to respond.

Can you clarify that we DO want the oil cooler lines to be replaced ? Or that we do NOT want them to have been replaced?

I was a bit uncertain with what you were saying there.
Yeah for sure you'll want to swap out the oil cooler hoses for metal ones, as well as the rear head vvt oil line to metal, the front bank vvt line is already a solid metal line. As I went thru this a couple months ago when I bought a 350. You'll also want to change the trans filter if you don't have any records of when it was done. For your coolant leak, I'd be looking at the water pump. I'd also check the age of the spare tire, if its over 6 or so yrs, figure on replacing it.

matts6887

just a note about doing the spark plugs; if you attempt to do them yourself; be warned the rear 3 are a royal PITA!!!. u have to remove the windshield cowl, windshield assembly and motor, and then take off the manifold to open up more space and access to the rear plugs. I did mine with the help of my sisters husband who is a big time car guy like myself; another warning theres that one rear bolt holding the manifold down from the rear side that is so called the "bolt from hell" because it is very hard to get off. Heck even using all his force it was hard for my sisters husband to get it off but he finally did manage to get it off. All in all i would say it took about 3.5-4 hours about to get it done. There are a bunch of threads on here with pics etc on it just search for them.

VikingTrad

i have one of those 40$ borescope cameras that comes in very handy when diagnosing.

i took these shots. im not sure exactly which way is up in them all but im sure those of you familiar with this engine can tell.

im now removing the front cover plate to see if the cooler line has been updated.

question on the sparkplugs, when i jack the engine from the oilpan, would that make the spark plug job any easier? if yes i should do it then.


pics of coolant leak in behind the pulleys and ar rear of oilpan

Nad1370

Most likely its the waterpump.

No jacking needed.
You'll just damage the pan.
These motors are heavy.
Just take the intake plenum off and you're right there.
Real challenge is to get the 12mm bracket bolt off for the plenum on the left side (passenger side)

Tip..
Tape the intake manifold openings once the plenum is out with painters tape or whatever to avoid dropping anything in there.
Disconnect the cam sensor connector.
You'll be moving harnesses to access some bolts.
It has a short harness and tends to get stretched out and possibly yank the wire out.

VikingTrad

nad, every video ive seen on youtube jacks the pan.

if there is a “less intrusive” way to do the job im all for it.

is there a weiteup or video or procedure that lays out your method?

also note, the vvt plumbing is the original with rubber type. and the oil cooler is also the original with rubber.

is it possible that there is one way to do all this and make the spark plug swap easier and the vvt update with water pump easier?