RX - 2nd Gen (2004-2009) Discussion topics related to the 2004 -2009 RX330, RX350 and RX400H models

05 RX330 drivetrain problems and more!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-04-21 | 05:50 AM
  #16  
lemonbeatr's Avatar
lemonbeatr
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
 
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 2
From: Al
Default

Originally Posted by Margate330
Hi friend, something is very wrong and your car does not sound safe to drive and I been sitting here for 2 days wondering if I should say anything or not.
I'd be wondering why the axle was out 2" first before looking at new problems with the wheel bearings IMHO because like they said an alignment is impossible if the axle is out 2 inches. You may need wheel bearings too but you already have existing problems.

Pics of the installation can maybe help and confirming if the large retaining clip and bolt in video above at minute 7:15 was installed correctly so the passenger side axle is not sliding in and out.
PS- got my new CV axles from Rockauto, ordered the popular Cardones' and they work great with no issues.


Pic of the large clip and retaining bolt shown here.

I am about to install another Napa passenger axle today in the meantime before the online one comes in. I have always put these in correctly.. Does the spring clip have to be replaced each time..? and how does that 14mm bolt even hold anything in place..?
I think the biggest issue has maybe been bad aftermarket parts, but it might also be that other suspension parts that are not on point are agitating or ruining these axles, or both... If the rock auto axle doesnt help ill start with the front bearings!
Also is it normal for aftermarket rotors to start surface rusting within a week or 2 of installation? I have not painted or sprayed them. Will have to clean them off and do that, or buy rock auto rotors and return these aftermarkets also?

Last edited by lemonbeatr; 09-04-21 at 05:58 AM.
Old 09-04-21 | 08:59 AM
  #17  
Margate330's Avatar
Margate330
Lexus Test Driver
 
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 7,421
Likes: 1,034
From: FL
Default

Originally Posted by lemonbeatr
I am about to install another Napa passenger axle today in the meantime before the online one comes in. I have always put these in correctly.. Does the spring clip have to be replaced each time..? and how does that 14mm bolt even hold anything in place..?
I think the biggest issue has maybe been bad aftermarket parts, but it might also be that other suspension parts that are not on point are agitating or ruining these axles, or both... If the rock auto axle doesnt help ill start with the front bearings!
Also is it normal for aftermarket rotors to start surface rusting within a week or 2 of installation? I have not painted or sprayed them. Will have to clean them off and do that, or buy rock auto rotors and return these aftermarkets also?
Oh man that would be so disappointing if you went thru all this with the cv axle issues for getting bugus parts.
I think the clip keeps the axle from sliding out the best I can see when I had it apart and I reused mine since it snapped in tight- no problems.
Going from memory the bolt just keeps the bearing from spinning in the bracket hole but looks like a big bolt for that prupose and it had a small piece of rubber in the bolt hole between the bolt and the bearing- I'm guessing to keep the bearing from spinning in the bracket hole without damaging it. I image it can howl without the rubber piece at certain speeds.

The torque spec for the axle nut is 217ft/lb so you didn't ruin your bearing from over torquing it from reading your post above but 2" inches out is huge so that bearing is maybe jacked up somehow from the cv install, who knows- the alignment mechanic saw a problem with the cv axle too from what you say.

Add- if it makes you feel any better I bought aftermarket parts in the last 2 years that had wrong fitment too- a radiator that didn't fit into the brackets and a motor mount that had bolt holes 1/2" off and wouldn't bolt- by local brand name auto part stores.

Wishing you success, plz let us know how it goes.

Last edited by Margate330; 09-04-21 at 10:18 AM.
Old 09-07-21 | 10:32 PM
  #18  
lemonbeatr's Avatar
lemonbeatr
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
 
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 2
From: Al
Default

Originally Posted by Margate330
Oh man that would be so disappointing if you went thru all this with the cv axle issues for getting bugus parts.
I think the clip keeps the axle from sliding out the best I can see when I had it apart and I reused mine since it snapped in tight- no problems.
Going from memory the bolt just keeps the bearing from spinning in the bracket hole but looks like a big bolt for that prupose and it had a small piece of rubber in the bolt hole between the bolt and the bearing- I'm guessing to keep the bearing from spinning in the bracket hole without damaging it. I image it can howl without the rubber piece at certain speeds.

The torque spec for the axle nut is 217ft/lb so you didn't ruin your bearing from over torquing it from reading your post above but 2" inches out is huge so that bearing is maybe jacked up somehow from the cv install, who knows- the alignment mechanic saw a problem with the cv axle too from what you say.

Add- if it makes you feel any better I bought aftermarket parts in the last 2 years that had wrong fitment too- a radiator that didn't fit into the brackets and a motor mount that had bolt holes 1/2" off and wouldn't bolt- by local brand name auto part stores.

Wishing you success, plz let us know how it goes.
Haha, thanks man, I greatly appreciate the tips and advice!
The 'new' napa axle went in pretty decently. Got everything on spec the best I could. It immediately feels 50% better. However, I believe the back tires do in fact need replacing. Went to get another set of Goodyears put on at Walmart today, and when they go put it on the lift, that's when they realized they picked out 17's instead of 18's and I was so bummed about that, waited an hour or 2, and no other Walmart around town has them in stock either! Of course! And when I go to jack up the rear wheels to change their rotors, of course I can not find those stupid compressing bolts to even do the job.
I think the back tires being presumably warped/compromised had been agitating these crappy aftermarket axles and each problem kept exasperating the other and so on. LOL.
And if I cannot find the same pair of Goodyears for the back, is it okay to go with a different brand? Someone told me yes it is, but the tires all need to be the same tread pattern..?
Also should I go with a Holstein 36$ or Beck/Arnley 100$ ABS sensor? Also any links to doing a computer relearn after installing the new abs sensor (or should I have my mechanic do it?)?

ALSO reading the transmission dipstick while HOT is the most difficult & misleading simple task ever. Is it more accurate to just read it cold? Or is it more accurate while hot but just harder to read?

Last edited by lemonbeatr; 09-07-21 at 10:36 PM.
Old 09-08-21 | 09:12 AM
  #19  
Margate330's Avatar
Margate330
Lexus Test Driver
 
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 7,421
Likes: 1,034
From: FL
Default

Originally Posted by lemonbeatr
Also should I go with a Holstein 36$ or Beck/Arnley 100$ ABS sensor? Also any links to doing a computer relearn after installing the new abs sensor (or should I have my mechanic do it?)
If this is your daily driver I'd go with whatever you can get fast and local.
The ABS sensor is important for braking and the wires connect directly to the Skid ECU that is mounted to the brake actuator and a broken sensor should throw the ABS fault light in the dash.
Wasn't there some posts in a thread somewhere on here about the car braking funny or vibrating with a faulty sensor? Hopefully someone knows.

Tires must all be same size because of the sensors on each wheel as far as I know.
I only do tires in matching pairs so on my car I have a pair of Toyos on the front and on the back I have a pair of Bridgestones(almost spent)- all 4 the same is best IMHO but I didn't care for the Bridgestones so wanted to try something else so I'll' do a pair of tires but I won't do 4 mis-matched tires. haha

Add- I believe the ABS sensor is "plug and play" and must be properly inserted(rusty cars have problems getting the sensor seated in from what I hear) so it reads the sensor ring properly and unhooking the battery should clear the code as far as I know.

Last edited by Margate330; 09-08-21 at 09:47 AM.
Old 09-08-21 | 04:36 PM
  #20  
lemonbeatr's Avatar
lemonbeatr
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
 
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 2
From: Al
Default

Originally Posted by Margate330
If this is your daily driver I'd go with whatever you can get fast and local.
The ABS sensor is important for braking and the wires connect directly to the Skid ECU that is mounted to the brake actuator and a broken sensor should throw the ABS fault light in the dash.
Wasn't there some posts in a thread somewhere on here about the car braking funny or vibrating with a faulty sensor? Hopefully someone knows.

Tires must all be same size because of the sensors on each wheel as far as I know.
I only do tires in matching pairs so on my car I have a pair of Toyos on the front and on the back I have a pair of Bridgestones(almost spent)- all 4 the same is best IMHO but I didn't care for the Bridgestones so wanted to try something else so I'll' do a pair of tires but I won't do 4 mis-matched tires. haha

Add- I believe the ABS sensor is "plug and play" and must be properly inserted(rusty cars have problems getting the sensor seated in from what I hear) so it reads the sensor ring properly and unhooking the battery should clear the code as far as I know.
Ok ood stuff! i will order the more expensive arnley sensor for the front, and if that doesnt also resolve the rear abs sensor problems (i think the front one tripped the rears also), then ill probably just put the cheaper holsteins on the rears. I really hope no PITA wiring or anything like that got shorted when the front sensor died, guess we'll see lol. The biggest problem at the moment with the sensors out is causing the tranny to hesitate and hard shift more than normal. I really have to baby the pedal, its like a dance.
Also does anyone know if this coolant is alright to use in

​​​​​​ these rx330's??

Also This tranny filter?

​​​​​​napa guys said its pretty good qfilter, forgot the manufacturer. Doesnt say on the filter, but it is the right size at least..


Last edited by lemonbeatr; 09-08-21 at 04:41 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Margate330 (09-09-21)
Old 09-09-21 | 07:24 PM
  #21  
Margate330's Avatar
Margate330
Lexus Test Driver
 
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 7,421
Likes: 1,034
From: FL
Default

Originally Posted by lemonbeatr

​​​​​​ these rx330's??

Also This tranny filter?

​​​​​​napa guys said its pretty good qfilter, forgot the manufacturer. Doesnt say on the filter, but it is the right size at least..
Zerex Asain pink fluid works ok, I'm running it in mine for last 2 years.
The trans kit is ok too, have fun getting at the trans pan bolts located over the frame. lol

The original OE trans filter is a "lifetime" screen and this has the benefit of not clogging up so easy but I like these kinds of filters for trapping finer debris but they need to be replaced every so many miles or they can clog up and starve the transmission of fluid and kill it- but I do prefer these.

With the pan off you can get a good idea by what you find in the pan on how your tranny is holding up.
Old 09-10-21 | 04:53 PM
  #22  
lemonbeatr's Avatar
lemonbeatr
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
 
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 15
Likes: 2
From: Al
Default

Originally Posted by Margate330
Zerex Asain pink fluid works ok, I'm running it in mine for last 2 years.
The trans kit is ok too, have fun getting at the trans pan bolts located over the frame. lol

The original OE trans filter is a "lifetime" screen and this has the benefit of not clogging up so easy but I like these kinds of filters for trapping finer debris but they need to be replaced every so many miles or they can clog up and starve the transmission of fluid and kill it- but I do prefer these.

With the pan off you can get a good idea by what you find in the pan on how your tranny is holding up.
HAAA yes i cringed when i saw those PITA bolts. Reminds me of working on my old VW. Even worse will be weasling them back in!!
With exactly that in mind, I might just get a transmission shop to do it all for 200$- although i would want to spectate to make sure they dont start power flushing!!
Do you think hypothetically i could re-use the old OEM tranny filter(granted its even still in there), by washing it off good? If so, i might store it for later once its out..
Also the tranny is hesitating a bit in all gears, especially going into 3rd- i was thinking about putting in some lucas viscosity improver/ transmission "fix" or whatever, is that a bad idea with this lexus?? I would be putting the lucas in after i replace all the fluid to aisin T4 conventional- so would adding lucas to T4 cause any adverse affects, even adding just a little bit at a time (and compensating by removing relative amounts of atf, obviously)?
And is this vehicle worth the cost of installing a ('new') transmission 10-20k miles from now??
Many thanks!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hayko350
ES - 5th Gen (2007-2012)
14
04-15-22 11:54 AM
gridlock13
GS - 4th Gen (2013-2020)
3
09-27-20 09:41 AM
shopgirl1
IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present)
6
07-02-20 05:47 AM
austinb5y
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
16
06-02-15 01:30 PM
exxonham
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
14
08-21-14 02:06 PM



Quick Reply: 05 RX330 drivetrain problems and more!



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:15 PM.