Struts, mounts, bearings, OEM vs aftermarket.... sigh
02-23-22, 11:53 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Co
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Struts, mounts, bearings, OEM vs aftermarket.... sigh
2007 rx400h with 189,000 miles on it. A couple of years ago (about 170k miles on it), I replaced the original Struts with random ebay loaded struts. Threw out the entire OEM assemblies
Since I am posting again, you all can deduce how well that has worked out.
After researching a ton, it seems like there is no good after market mount/bearing. The OEM mounts and bearings are pricey $100/mount, $50/bearing. This doesn't include the bellows or other parts of the assembly. Rather than trying to piece together everything OEM, I just bought some used struts off ebay with about 115k miles on them.
This is part of a front suspension rebuild which so far will include LCA (OEM) and ball joints (OEM), and sway linkages (undecided).
From here, not sure which direction I will go. Might just install then as is and see how it goes. Or, I could disassemble the soon to arrive used ones and inspect, and then replace components as needed.
Since I am posting again, you all can deduce how well that has worked out.
After researching a ton, it seems like there is no good after market mount/bearing. The OEM mounts and bearings are pricey $100/mount, $50/bearing. This doesn't include the bellows or other parts of the assembly. Rather than trying to piece together everything OEM, I just bought some used struts off ebay with about 115k miles on them.
This is part of a front suspension rebuild which so far will include LCA (OEM) and ball joints (OEM), and sway linkages (undecided).
From here, not sure which direction I will go. Might just install then as is and see how it goes. Or, I could disassemble the soon to arrive used ones and inspect, and then replace components as needed.
02-27-22, 06:16 PM
#2
Pole Position
I wouldn't go cheap on suspension/brake parts.....Depending on what I'm changing/swapping out dictates if I keep the swapped out parts for a week or so.....
02-28-22, 04:22 PM
#3
Pole Position
2007 rx400h with 189,000 miles on it. A couple of years ago (about 170k miles on it), I replaced the original Struts with random ebay loaded struts. Threw out the entire OEM assemblies
Since I am posting again, you all can deduce how well that has worked out.
After researching a ton, it seems like there is no good after market mount/bearing. The OEM mounts and bearings are pricey $100/mount, $50/bearing. This doesn't include the bellows or other parts of the assembly. Rather than trying to piece together everything OEM, I just bought some used struts off ebay with about 115k miles on them.
This is part of a front suspension rebuild which so far will include LCA (OEM) and ball joints (OEM), and sway linkages (undecided).
From here, not sure which direction I will go. Might just install then as is and see how it goes. Or, I could disassemble the soon to arrive used ones and inspect, and then replace components as needed.
Since I am posting again, you all can deduce how well that has worked out.
After researching a ton, it seems like there is no good after market mount/bearing. The OEM mounts and bearings are pricey $100/mount, $50/bearing. This doesn't include the bellows or other parts of the assembly. Rather than trying to piece together everything OEM, I just bought some used struts off ebay with about 115k miles on them.
This is part of a front suspension rebuild which so far will include LCA (OEM) and ball joints (OEM), and sway linkages (undecided).
From here, not sure which direction I will go. Might just install then as is and see how it goes. Or, I could disassemble the soon to arrive used ones and inspect, and then replace components as needed.
02-28-22, 05:17 PM
#4
Lexus Champion
This person needed the coils so they bought used struts. If it was me I'd swap the struts for KYB and replace any rubber parts if needed. Mounts are usually good I've re-used OE ones many times without issue.
03-21-22, 10:42 AM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Co
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
why would you buy struts with 100k on them. That’s when they most likely are not good anymore. I just got brand new oem struts from eBay for $400 for all 4 from someone who had them sitting in his garage. You can find deals. That sounds like the worst decision you can make buying them that used
Brand new from a vendor is over $1000/strut for everything. This way i can 'start with' all OEM. Lots of the pieces will still be good: boot/cover, lower bushing, insulator, springs. Now that I have had them on the car for several hundred miles, the struts (cylinders) are both good: no leaking and have proper dampening. one of the mounts i believe is bad is it is loud when hitting pot-hole. The springs are good, and OEM is different than after market. The after market ones are thicker but less 'winding'.
03-21-22, 11:15 AM
#7
Pole Position
If I had found a guy with 4 new genuine toyota/lexus OEM complete struts, I would have gone with that!
Brand new from a vendor is over $1000/strut for everything. This way i can 'start with' all OEM. Lots of the pieces will still be good: boot/cover, lower bushing, insulator, springs. Now that I have had them on the car for several hundred miles, the struts (cylinders) are both good: no leaking and have proper dampening. one of the mounts i believe is bad is it is loud when hitting pot-hole. The springs are good, and OEM is different than after market. The after market ones are thicker but less 'winding'.
Brand new from a vendor is over $1000/strut for everything. This way i can 'start with' all OEM. Lots of the pieces will still be good: boot/cover, lower bushing, insulator, springs. Now that I have had them on the car for several hundred miles, the struts (cylinders) are both good: no leaking and have proper dampening. one of the mounts i believe is bad is it is loud when hitting pot-hole. The springs are good, and OEM is different than after market. The after market ones are thicker but less 'winding'.
$1000? where are you looking ? Check discountpartsmonster.com. They usually have the lowest prices
Trending Topics
03-21-22, 11:24 AM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Co
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you, DMPesso!
It looks like about $540 (pre tax/shipping) for all components/strut. Much less than $1000. I do feel like I am playing wack a mole with my eyes closed a bit. There is that one 'thunk' noise on the left side when hitting a pot hole, and there is also a single 'knock' sometimes when slow speed turning. I did get the LCA's done with OEM. Ball joints and tie rod ends seem fine - don't see any obvious play. sway links seem okay. There does seem to be some play and distortion in the sway link bushings. This might be where i go next.
I am assuming the real loud knock on the left side when hitting pothole is something in the upper mount, and not the strut itself, as the strut has no leakage, and it 'bounces once.' But maybe this is the wrong conclusion. Could a strut (not the mount) go bad such that it still works with regard to dampening but where it generates a clunk internally?
It looks like about $540 (pre tax/shipping) for all components/strut. Much less than $1000. I do feel like I am playing wack a mole with my eyes closed a bit. There is that one 'thunk' noise on the left side when hitting a pot hole, and there is also a single 'knock' sometimes when slow speed turning. I did get the LCA's done with OEM. Ball joints and tie rod ends seem fine - don't see any obvious play. sway links seem okay. There does seem to be some play and distortion in the sway link bushings. This might be where i go next.
I am assuming the real loud knock on the left side when hitting pothole is something in the upper mount, and not the strut itself, as the strut has no leakage, and it 'bounces once.' But maybe this is the wrong conclusion. Could a strut (not the mount) go bad such that it still works with regard to dampening but where it generates a clunk internally?
03-21-22, 04:04 PM
#9
Pole Position
Thank you, DMPesso!
It looks like about $540 (pre tax/shipping) for all components/strut. Much less than $1000. I do feel like I am playing wack a mole with my eyes closed a bit. There is that one 'thunk' noise on the left side when hitting a pot hole, and there is also a single 'knock' sometimes when slow speed turning. I did get the LCA's done with OEM. Ball joints and tie rod ends seem fine - don't see any obvious play. sway links seem okay. There does seem to be some play and distortion in the sway link bushings. This might be where i go next.
I am assuming the real loud knock on the left side when hitting pothole is something in the upper mount, and not the strut itself, as the strut has no leakage, and it 'bounces once.' But maybe this is the wrong conclusion. Could a strut (not the mount) go bad such that it still works with regard to dampening but where it generates a clunk internally?
It looks like about $540 (pre tax/shipping) for all components/strut. Much less than $1000. I do feel like I am playing wack a mole with my eyes closed a bit. There is that one 'thunk' noise on the left side when hitting a pot hole, and there is also a single 'knock' sometimes when slow speed turning. I did get the LCA's done with OEM. Ball joints and tie rod ends seem fine - don't see any obvious play. sway links seem okay. There does seem to be some play and distortion in the sway link bushings. This might be where i go next.
I am assuming the real loud knock on the left side when hitting pothole is something in the upper mount, and not the strut itself, as the strut has no leakage, and it 'bounces once.' But maybe this is the wrong conclusion. Could a strut (not the mount) go bad such that it still works with regard to dampening but where it generates a clunk internally?
replace the stabilizer bar bushings. Those make the same clunking noise struts make and they’re always worn out after 100k miles. Mine are so loose you can shake the sway bar. Tried to change it but the bolt is rusted on so had to order brackets. Also if you haven’t cleaned your MAF I highly recommend you do it, took me 5 mins. Makes the car so much more responsive
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
