Savnout

To make a long story short... The windows stay on after car is off and locked up. Had this same problem couple years ago, on same car. Tracked it down to the fuse box, ecu tatt was built into it.

Well, it's doing it again. Same thing. All windows are staying on. How can this be fuse box again? Pulled out the master window controller (drivers side door window switch bank) unplugged it and it shut off that window only. Other windows still stayed live.

I did notice that someone else had been in the driver's door panel noticed a wire that was broke and repaired.

I'll post photos. Anyone have any suggestions? I never did try to replace the master window switch with a original one... Just crappy ebay ones that never worked or even made more problems (ex fuel tank gauge went crazy).

Any thoughts? How can fuse box go bad again. Same exact way. Weird or what.

Arsenii

Hello,

Does pressing Window Lock button change anything?
What do you mean by windows staying On? Can you still actuate them with the button on the panel when the car is locked?

Unlike in the older cars, windows in the car are tied together with the LIN network instead of hard-wiring all the windows through the master switch, hence why disconnecting it didn't change much. The addition of a unique network for windows means that each door is powered from the separate fuse, all are tapped into the battery, not the ignition switch, hence why they can operate without any key in the car, for functions like window roll up and down when you turn and hold the key in a door lock for some time.

To go any further on diagnosing this issue, you will have to get some tools, like Techstream cable and at least some kind of an oscilloscope to watch the signal that is being passed through LIN network. Start by checking the Body ECU to see what settings are stored there, it may be that your issue is caused by one of the customizable parameters in the Techstream, and there is also a slim chance a system would store a fault code. If that won't help, you will have to connect to the oscilloscope, like the one linked below, and watch the signal on the LIN network to see what ECU allows the windows to function when the car is locked.


Hope this helps and best of luck!

Margate330

I like to give a +1 to you because I like readng thoughtful posts and the pic posted adds extra context so we can see what your are dealing with.

This is where I'm at too, not clear on what OP(original poster) means by windows stay on so waiting to see.

Savnout

Yeah, all the windows stay on after the car is off. I had this exact same problem a year ago and tried swapping out the master window switch. No good. Although I did use two off of eBay. Anyhow, I finally figured out the body Ecu was bad so I replaced the fuse box under dash on drivers side and all was well.

Now over a year later, same problem. I unplugged the master window panel (on drivers side door) and the other windows are live. I can reach over to passenger side and roll down the window with passenger side window switch.

I'm thinking that the repaired wire that's in the photo, maybe water got into the repair and shorted out the same spot on new fuse box (ECU).

​​​​​​I have TechStream and cable. I had a big article on this same issue like a year ago. Nothing in TechStream. The windows all test fine. I think I left the windows cracked and water got into door and under the switch maybe and into that crappy repair. That's the only thing I can think of. It's totally bizarre.

Thanks for responding, I'm sorry I didn't notice. I never got a email from forum letting me know.

** Any idea what the light grey wire goes to? I know there is a bunch.
​​​​​​​Sean

Savnout

After the car is off and key is out of ignition. Doors locked and car is asleep (30min later) I can roll down the windows with the switch. And the lights on the switches stay illuminated (light green)

I had this problem a year ago and tracked it down to the body ECM inside the fuse box under dash drivers side. Now it's back. I think think maybe some water got into the repair that is visible on the pic and shorted out the same spot on the body Ecu. Any idea on what the light grey wire (that's repaired) goes to?

Sean

Arsenii

Does the moonroof function as well?

Never seen that before....

Is there any other system that stays live?
Do the lights keep working when you press the Window Lock button?

The system is indeed controlled by the Body ECU in the fuse box, but the only way for it to know that the ignition is On is with ECU-IG fuse. Try using a Test Light to see if it is powered even when the car is locked, and if so, pull it out and see what happens.

It is strange that the system doesn't detect any flaws, makes me wonder is the issue is a bit simpler than a bad ECU. Body ECU that you replaced a while back is responsible for pretty much every interior option in the car, so even the fact that only the windows show it may indicate something else at play, even though I am not sure what that is yet.

What pin number is the repaired wire?

While it should be a halfway descent way of repairing wiring, this is not something I would keep frankly. Below is a link to some waterproof crimps with a proper crimping tool for those, this repair will likely outlast the car.


My concern is not really about the repair, it is more about the reason behind it, there is really not much that can snap just that wire, leaving all the rest untouched, which makes me wonder if it was part of some aftermarket system installed in the car a while back or something like that.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

Savnout

Thanks for the reply. And idea where I can grab a diagram of the master window switch at online?

Only system that stays on is all the windows. And I did fix it like I said last year by switching out the body Ecu, replaced the entire fuse box.. was just easier. Got lucky and got a used one off of eBay. Only thing that did change with that switch is the power hatch only works when engine is off. Hatch won't open with car running. I think the seller advertised the fuse box as out of a Lexus 330 but it might have come off a Camry or Highlander or something. Fixed the window issue but I can't pop the rear hatch unless the car is car is off. I could deal with that. The window issue is another problem. Might have to start looking for another fuse box. I did a warranty swap out on the battery so it can sit for 2 days with no problem. I think the draw is like 2 amps if I remember correctly. Eventually it will ruin the battery.

Total bizarre issue. Thanks for the reply. I am gonna look at the spliced wire. Someone in the EU has same problem, that's how I got to the fuse box body Ecu..super old thread here somewhere.I was thinking it was a bad multiplex somewhere on the CAN line (Lin)
Sean

I did buy the car used years ago (6yrs)

04 Lexus RX 330.

Arsenii

What about the ECU-IG fuse, is it live?
Does the moonroof behave the same as windows?

The fact that the windows stay operational doesn't necessarily mean that it will cause a draw, at least that big of a draw, unless if they are constantly running when the car is off.. First, try disabling the windows to see if the draw will drop, the window lock button is a separate system that doesn't rely on Multiplex network, it simply sends Ground signal to all the switches.

If that won't help, try checking for Parasitic Draw as it is described here, see which fuse makes that draw and see where that will lead, it may be that a completely different system is at fault here causing a draw.

Not sure, I don't have one either, so I was mostly using diagrams for others cars to make a complete picture. The best place would likely be getting a 2 day subscription from the official Toyota website here, it gives access to all the service manuals for every model.

This appears to be a Techstream setting more than an inherent flaw. Try going to the Hatch settings in Techstream and checking its custom parameters, see what is in there, might be worth a try..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

Savnout

[QUOTE=Arsenii;11408984]What about the ECU-IG fuse, is it live?
Does the moonroof behave the same as windows?



The fact that the windows stay operational doesn't necessarily mean that it will cause a draw, at least that big of a draw, unless if they are constantly running when the car is off.. First, try disabling the windows to see if the draw will drop, the window lock button is a separate system that doesn't rely on Multiplex network, it simply sends Ground signal to all the switches.

If that won't help, try checking for Parasitic Draw as it is described here, see which fuse makes that draw and see where that will lead, it may be that a completely different system is at fault here causing a draw.



Not sure, I don't have one either, so I was mostly using diagrams for others cars to make a complete picture. The best place would likely be getting a 2 day subscription from the official Toyota website here, it gives access to all the service manuals for every model.



This appears to be a Techstream setting more than an inherent flaw. Try going to the Hatch settings in Techstream and checking its custom parameters, see what is in there, might be worth a try..

Yeah, I did a test last time and it was the ECU-B 7.5amp fuse in engine compartment. I can't reach fuses under the dash, to damn old to get contorted like that for drivers side fuse. Last time I had it switched out, a mechanic did it for me. They took were stumped and came back with the 'Get a Lexus master window switch'. But basically told me if it didn't fix problem, they weren't responsible for the part. Non returnable.

Thanks for all your help. It's a weird one. Definitely electric gremlins at work.

I did check TechStream out as far as hatch goes.no setting on my version for locking the hatch when key is off. I'll check again but I'm sure. And this car is 04, doubt anything has been updated to allow more control over older modules.
My window lockout button has no effect on other windows also. I think that's why mechanic suggested the new master switch. Gonna hit a junkyard and get a original Lexus one if possible. Moon roof will NOT work when car is off and key out.

Sean
Thanks again

Arsenii

The thing is that this fuse is powered from the Ignition Switch, not from any ECU, so if it does have power coming to it even when the key is out, it may indicate a fault in the switch on the key tumbler, although I haven't seen one fail in a very long time.

Strange, can you share a screenshot of the main screen in Techstream? What version do you use?

That can be a very good clue actually, since the lockout is not done through Body ECU, the Main switch is just supplying Ground to all the switches via a separate wire, at least as far as I could gather. A new switch may actually fix at least that part with the lockout switch not working, one way to try is to either find a different one, or to find a wiring diagram for your specific car and manually short the right pin to Ground to see what happens, which will either work, or cause even more trouble..

That's another clue to suggest that it is not the Body ECU at fault, at least this time..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

Margate330

I'll check it out later when I have time as see if I can dig up something for you.
If you need full door wiring hit me up on pm.

My theory on this after doing some reverse engineering is because the window switch contains a microcontroller and it send a telegram down the data line as Arseni mentioned.
Problem as we all know is aftermarket is famous for calling something a fit but doesn't actually work. lol

The door switch must send the correct data telegram for our car's Body Ecu and not a Toyota 4 Runner or some other car. lol
That's prob why the aftermarket door switches may fit but blink lights on the dash and do wierd things except what they are suposed to do. lol

Savnout

**Update

I got a used Lexus master window controller off of eBay from a used RX330. Problem still exists. But the windows lock feature now works.

I'm off to look on ebay for another used fuse box (interior drivers side). My guess is water intruded into repaired wire and shorted out multiplex portion of fuse box in exact same way as last one.

Last time I fixed this exact problem by switching out the fuse box. Lasted over a year. Now it's back... It's crazy.

Sav

Arsenii

To short out a repair, you need at least 2 wires, or that wire must have access to Ground, even if the water can access the repair, all it will do is corrode the wire to the point that of losing contact, it will not short out. While it doesn't mean that a bad repair won't cause troubles, I would still suggest re-doing it with proper waterproof crimp connectors, I wouldn't put the entire blame solely on that repair.

As written above, both ECU-IG fuses should not be powered when the Ignition is in the Off position, that is how the car knows when the Ignition is off to disable the windows, if they are still powered, there may be a fault with the Switch or the internal wiring of the Fuse Box.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

Savnout

Well, like I said this problem with the window staying on after the car is off is back. I ordered another fuse box off of eBay, used of course, put it in and this time it did not fix the problem! I already bought a used Lexus master window switch off of eBay before the box and that didn't fix it

Oddly, last time this happened I switched out the fuse box and it fixed the problem but I lost the ability to open the rear power hatch while the car was running. After switching fuse boxes (one by drivers feet) it now works! But the windows still stay on after car is off!

I ended up switching out the 30amp relay on the fuse box (#68) and that didn't work either. (I had a spare from old fuse box a couple years earlier).

I pulled out the fuse #26 in the engine bay. ECU-B fuse and the windows are now off when I shut down the car! And they work when the car is running!

I did lose my Key Fob remote. And I thought I would loose the entire windows but they work (at lease the drivers does... Haven't programmed the others yet!)

I've been jumping this thing everyday with my jump box for a month. It's just my work car.

Weird. Must be the multiplexer in the fuse box? The used one off of eBay is bad too? I don't know. Gauges all work.... That I can tell so far.

Fuse #26 I fuse box for ECU-B was drawing current when car was off so it should keep a charge now. I hope.

Sorry for long delay, I've been stuck so no need to post.

Sav

Savnout

The power is off now in the master (drivers window) but the other still stay on! Ugh.


Maybe the used fuse box I got off of eBay had a bad multiplexer built into it also? I'm about to unplug all the windows at the switch (in door).


Sav