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I wanted to make sure that the idler pulley bolt does not have left hand threads before I really crank on it so, can anyone confirm this?
Tensioner should have Left Hand thread, so that you can release the pressure on the belt turning the tersioner Counter-Clockwise without loosening up the bolt you use to release tension.
Take the pulleys off and spin them by hand to make sure that all the bearings are good while at it.
This project has just taken a turn. I installed the new thermostat and was tightening down on the two 10mm nuts and went to just tighten the outer one just a little bit more when the damn thing snapped off. So, anyone got any suggestions as to how to get this stud out to replace it?
So, anyone got any suggestions as to how to get this stud out to replace it?
Uh-oh, that would be a great time to check what kind of luck you have..
Those studs are threaded on both sides, so with quite a bit of luck and very grippy pliers, you may be able to unscrew what remains of it. A good quality end cutter, with blades gripping Parallel to what remains of the stud may work well in tight space.
If that won't work out, the next step would likely involve taking the entire housing off, here is a Diagram for it, there is barely any space to work there. Depending on how seized the stud is in there, you may try extractor set, you will need to sand it flat with the housing, then drill the stud all the way through, heat the surrounding area with a torch and attempt to get it out, but whatever you do, do not break the extractor in the hole, or it will make for a very bad day.
A better way if it doesn't budge at all, in my opinion, would be to get a Helicoil Thread Repair kit for M6 thread, drill the stud together with the housing, then tap a new thread and install the stud there. From my experience it usually takes less time that way, not to say that with older cars, you will still come to it after tons of fight and cutting words. Other than that, if you break a hardened extractor in the stud, it is usually a game over, you will not be able to drill it out again with regular drill, you will have to find a machinist that will do it for you.
Which way to choose will depend on your luck and what tools you have in your possession.
Uh-oh, that would be a great time to check what kind of luck you have..
Those studs are threaded on both sides, so with quite a bit of luck and very grippy pliers, you may be able to unscrew what remains of it. A good quality end cutter, with blades gripping Parallel to what remains of the stud may work well in tight space.
If that won't work out, the next step would likely involve taking the entire housing off, here is a Diagram for it, there is barely any space to work there. Depending on how seized the stud is in there, you may try extractor set, you will need to sand it flat with the housing, then drill the stud all the way through, heat the surrounding area with a torch and attempt to get it out, but whatever you do, do not break the extractor in the hole, or it will make for a very bad day.
A better way if it doesn't budge at all, in my opinion, would be to get a Helicoil Thread Repair kit for M6 thread, drill the stud together with the housing, then tap a new thread and install the stud there. From my experience it usually takes less time that way, not to say that with older cars, you will still come to it after tons of fight and cutting words. Other than that, if you break a hardened extractor in the stud, it is usually a game over, you will not be able to drill it out again with regular drill, you will have to find a machinist that will do it for you.
Which way to choose will depend on your luck and what tools you have in your possession.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thanks, I tried to get some different sizes of vice grips in there but there is just not enough room. I purchased a stud extractor tool from Autozone and I will try that, if that doesnt work, then I will remove the thermostat housing. I already removed the top engine mount "dog bone" and I started removing the bracket for that same engine mount, I got all of the bolts out except one that is really long and hits against the wheel well just above the ABS brake lines. I would really like to get that bolt out, it is completely loose. If I can get that bolt and the bracket out then there are only three 10mm bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the engine. Remove those bolts and the hose at the back and the whole thing comes off. Anyway, if anyone knows a trick to getting that bracket and bolt removed let me know please, I'd like to get this wrapped up tomorrow. Thanks y'all.
Finally some good news!!! The extractor tool worked perfectly. I used vice grips to hold the silver part while using a ratchet to tighten down onto the stud. Once it was all tight, then I removed the vice grips and slowly tightened down with the ratchet and the stud backed out. Nice that a tool worked as it was supposed to. So, I replaced the stud and installed the inlet pipe being careful to not over tighten things this time.
Great job, I'd use WD40 on the studs.......Also a good time to flush out the old coolant w/ new......I use the Zerex red coolant.....
Thanks. When I installed the new stud, I used blue Loc-tite on the threads. One step ahead of ya, flushing the system and have new coolant and I am going to replace the radiator cap also.
Next up, I will replace those janky oil cooler lines.
All good so far. I drove the RX around for about an hour, hwy and stop and go in traffic, temp gauge stayed right in the middle. Now I need to address that tire pressure light, Lol.
Update: My wife has been driving the vehicle around for several days now and it seems all is good. I have been keeping a check on the fluid level in the reservoir and it has stabilized and has not changed at all. So, it looks like job done!!! Yay!!!
All good so far. I drove the RX around for about an hour, hwy and stop and go in traffic, temp gauge stayed right in the middle. Now I need to address that tire pressure light, Lol.
Looks good my friend!
Temp gauge is right on the money where it should be so your T-stat is running dead nutz.
Way to go.
12-29-22, 07:55 AM
