chuyrobles

I’ve replaced LCA’s on 07 ES350. At the time, press-in bushings were not available, so got the arms and BJ’s from AM Autoparts. That was about five years ago and the parts are holding up. No alignment was needed as the knuckle was not removed. Only do it if your tires are wearing unevenly and/or the car does not drive normally after the new parts are installed.

Chapp

You'll want to check the strut mounrs & the A-arm bushings first & then the b/j's (ball joints) which hardly ever go out. If its the bushings, easier to swap out the A-arms vs the bushings. If its the strut mounts, don't use KYB strut mounts, use the oem only. The KYB struts work great, thou.......I went w/ KYB struts, using the original springs & using oem strut mounts. If your swapping out the w/p, good time to swap out the T-stat as well......[/QUOTE]

Same. I used KYB as well with original springs. All four took me around 8 hours. I did have to replace the links as 3 out of 4 I had to cut out so be sure to get those is you do this job.

MattRX

The listed 10 hours is very excessive, even for the AWD models. Did my 2002 Highlander first then my 2008 RX350. MZ engine is a little harder to do because removing the engine mount (passenger side) bracket is more painful to do. Instead of trying to jack the engine super high to get the mounts off, I just removed the entire bracket from the car after separating the seized engine mount from the bracket. Also, on the MZ engine you need to take off the PS belt to remove that bracket which also adds more time to the job.

On 2GR-FE engine cars, it can be done in around 4 hours on the driveway if everything comes apart without a fight. Maybe around 5-6 in an MZ engine car. I would save the factory ball joints if possible. As Felix said these things hardly ever go bad, and the new ones have really crap threads that love to strip out when you torque the studs on them to their torque spec of ~80 ft lbs.