RX - 3rd Gen (2010-2015) Discussion topics related to the 2010 - 2015 RX350 and RX450H models

Considering Purchase of 2010 RX350

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Old 08-26-23, 12:04 PM
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RazorIS250
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Default Considering Purchase of 2010 RX350

Just test drove a 2010 RX350 1 owner 112k miles. Asking $12k. Runs out smooth, plenty of power, shifts well. Power train is quite, no visible leaks. For age I would say body and interior are above average but certainly not perfect. This will be a 90% interstate daily commuter to replace a recently totaled vehicle. Had an ES300 back in the day and wife drives IS250F Sport currently. Seldom ever have to open the hood on her IS so I'm sure the same quality is to be expected with the RX I'm just not familiar with the 3.5 and transmission.

Gulf south owned - undercarriage looks really good.

Thoughts regarding what I should look into/research before moving forward?
Old 08-26-23, 12:40 PM
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Clutchless
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Join the Lexus drivers site and enter the vehicle VIN to see its dealer service history. https://www.lexus.com/My-Lexus/account/create-account

To see the service history at Lexus Drivers do the following:
On the page that lists the car whose VIN you entered there will be a line that states
Vehicle Health Report
Learn More - click this box
Then on the next page it will state
My Service
On the right side it will state Service History
View History - click this box to see the service history
The it will slowly take you to a page you need to scroll down to see the service history
Each entry will be a line, click on the + at the side to see more about each entry


Do some searching around here for other posts considering purchase of a used RX as the replies will give you a lot of data.
Since it is 10 years old the problem areas should have been addressed by now. If it has the tow package make sure the rubber oil cooler lines were replaced with the metal ones.
If the transmission fluid has not been changed, get it changed. It is a weak spot on this vehicle.
At this age you should have had the coolant changed already, if not get it done.
The spark plugs are good until at least 120,000 miles and will last longer. They are a few hundred bucks to replace due to labor getting to the rear bank of the engine.


Good Luck.

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Old 08-26-23, 01:36 PM
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RazorIS250
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Originally Posted by Clutchless
Join the Lexus drivers site and enter the vehicle VIN to see its dealer service history. https://www.lexus.com/My-Lexus/account/create-account

To see the service history at Lexus Drivers do the following:
On the page that lists the car whose VIN you entered there will be a line that states
Vehicle Health Report
Learn More - click this box
Then on the next page it will state
My Service
On the right side it will state Service History
View History - click this box to see the service history
The it will slowly take you to a page you need to scroll down to see the service history
Each entry will be a line, click on the + at the side to see more about each entry


Do some searching around here for other posts considering purchase of a used RX as the replies will give you a lot of data.
Since it is 10 years old the problem areas should have been addressed by now. If it has the tow package make sure the rubber oil cooler lines were replaced with the metal ones.
If the transmission fluid has not been changed, get it changed. It is a weak spot on this vehicle.
At this age you should have had the coolant changed already, if not get it done.
The spark plugs are good until at least 120,000 miles and will last longer. They are a few hundred bucks to replace due to labor getting to the rear bank of the engine.


Good Luck.
Thank you!

Looks like the original owner made all or most suggested service interval visits. Like the example below, each of these entries is marked, "completed". Do you know if this means that everything recommended was actually done or if it means only that the inspection of each recommended item was done?

SERVICE: 115,000 MILE FACTORY
DESCRIPTION:~|~115,000 MILE OR 138 MONTH (11-1/2 YEAR) FACTORY RECOMMENDED NEXT SERVICE DUE: 6 MONTHS OR 5,000 MILES (WHICHEVER OCCURS FIRST) ~|~ ~|~COMPLETED


The following recommendations were made over last ~12k miles of the service visits. Appears she traded in shortly thereafter. Are any of these known problems across the platform or just specific to this vehicle?

Replace liftgate motor (worked fine during test drive)
Upper oil pan reseal. Unsure if fixed though didn't notice any leaks during test drive.
Clicking when turning steering wheel - tech stated column was wearing out. Not fixed according to records but did not notice this noise while driving.


Other normal wear suggestions like control arms, strut mounts, etc. Front end didn't feel loose but I will definitely look closer.
Old 08-27-23, 05:56 AM
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Clutchless
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I forgot to mention before that the Lexus drivers site has the build sheet for every vehicle so you can check the options that are on it.

Always get a potential used car purchase inspected by an independent mechanic that has a good reputation for quality and honesty.

If you clicked on the summary paragraph (such as you quoted above) at Lexus Drivers it should bring up the detailed worksheet explanation of what was done. That may answer your questions regarding if the work was done.
Or just call the dealer service department that did the work, give them the VIN and ask your questions.

Sometimes the liftgate motor needs replacement, but usually it is just worn lift struts which are cheap at https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/
An independent inspection can check for engine leaks. There is the infamous timing cover oil leak, but it is always just an annoying little seep that makes the rear of the engine dirty. You never have to add oil. It is not worth repairing because they have to remove the engine and it costs $3000!!! There have not been many upper oil pan leaks reported.

There have been issues with the steering columns clicking, usually it is just annoying and does not require replacement. Do a search here using the term "steering column" to learn more. It has electric power steering.

Cracks in suspension bushings are normal and dealers always try to scare you into replacing everything for every little wear crack. That is not needed. You can drive for years with these cracks and don't need to do anything until you notice steering or suspension problems.

Check for rear shocks leaking. However they are inexpensive to replace.

Last edited by Clutchless; 08-27-23 at 09:51 AM.
Old 08-30-23, 04:54 AM
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doji
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Consider replacing the front transfer case and rear diff fluid if it’s never been done. On my 2011, it came out quite dark after its first change at 10 yr, 105k miles. Car was maintained at dealer by previous owner and it was never done. Am at 135k now and yet to do spark plugs, plan to to it at 150k and while at it, clean the throttle body.

For front and rear brakes, first thing I do is clean and lube the slider pins, I have found these quite stuck on all the cars I have bought used. Can’t understand why mechanics skip this simple step and just slap on pads, even on dealer maintained cars. Makes it so much easier on the brake pads and rotors to do their job.
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Old 08-30-23, 02:37 PM
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salimshah
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For sure check that the vehicle is mechanically sound and well cared for.

Only thing I would add is check the feature that you think are missing/needed. Some trickled in following years. You may like to pay extra and get a newer model if you think of those features as "essential". Reverse camera guide lines and blind spot monitoring come to mind. Home link may not be the latest and SOS wireless may be obsolete.

Salim
Old 09-07-23, 05:42 PM
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Bach42t
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Originally Posted by RazorIS250
Clicking when turning steering wheel - tech stated column was wearing out. Not fixed according to records but did not notice this noise while driving.
I'm 100% sure this related to the infamous worn and disintegrated bushing in the EPS Module. The bushing is a $9 or so part and can be replaced and the sound will disappear.

Drive the car at 70 to 80 MPH and listen to an oscillating sound which is the pieces rattling in the EPS. Also it can be duplicated by going over speed bumps or cobblestone at 10 to 20 MPH.
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