Lexus Dealer Repair Costs
01-22-24, 09:19 AM
#16
Moderator
Salim
01-22-24, 12:20 PM
#17
01-22-24, 01:50 PM
#18
Moderator
Where the exceptions happen: [I will use bluebook value as an arbiter, which I hope applies equally to both vehicles]
The alternate vehicle must be available local.
The hassle of selling and purchasing should be minimal
There has to be some level of assurity that the alternate vehicle will be in same condition as the current after repair * [repair also gives you warranty on work done]
If an identical vehicle is not available then each difference has to be quantified in $s and rework the equation above.
* There are lot of tangibles with a known vehicle. I love my vehicles and I do appreciate other but my love is for the ones I own/had_history. It was heart wrenching for me when I sold the vehicles I have owned as well as when my RX was totaled. I could not see eye to eye with the adjuster. The moment I took the emotions out of it, we reached an agreement with the company lawyer.
I may not agree [unemotionally] with some one's decision, but I do understand there can be reasons why a certain decision was made.
Salim
01-26-24, 10:39 PM
#19
Rookie
Thread Starter
How could it be cheaper to spend $3,600 vs. spending what it would cost to procure a lower mileage RX? So let's say KBB 12K + 3K repairs = 15K and you want it to be newer model RX350 and lower miles than 133K.
Based on this logic and searching the universe, I can get a Used 2016 (newer year to me), under 100K miles (they'd be at ~90K Miles) for $25,000 - If I were looking to buy a Used Lexus RX350 (which I already have done) - I'd grab one of those for sure.
$25,000 minus my possible $12 to $15K KBB value of my unfixed or fixed RX350 = $10,000 extra I'd have to pay to move up to that because of this issue
Seems like for 3K I get my car going again, for $10K I get a newer 2016 RX350 with 90K miles. Prior to seeing the drivetrain drip on the garage I wasn't spending any of this money. I'm fine with spending 3K as I don't view this 'box with tires' to be anything other than transportation and going down in value, be it a 2013 or a 2016 or a 2024. I'll invest what I've not spent.
As well - the 3K in repairs is actually less in my mind, because only ~$1,200 was the actual drivetrain drip issue, the others like a brake job and fluid changes are routine maintenance type items that should be expected.
But for what it is worth, we have been looking around at options of Used cars out there in the 20K to 25K range.....
... so far not impressed, used cars still are at a premium it seems, but boy it is easy to get car fever! haha.......and lock on to the only car on the lot that I must have..... haha!
Based on this logic and searching the universe, I can get a Used 2016 (newer year to me), under 100K miles (they'd be at ~90K Miles) for $25,000 - If I were looking to buy a Used Lexus RX350 (which I already have done) - I'd grab one of those for sure.
$25,000 minus my possible $12 to $15K KBB value of my unfixed or fixed RX350 = $10,000 extra I'd have to pay to move up to that because of this issue
Seems like for 3K I get my car going again, for $10K I get a newer 2016 RX350 with 90K miles. Prior to seeing the drivetrain drip on the garage I wasn't spending any of this money. I'm fine with spending 3K as I don't view this 'box with tires' to be anything other than transportation and going down in value, be it a 2013 or a 2016 or a 2024. I'll invest what I've not spent.
As well - the 3K in repairs is actually less in my mind, because only ~$1,200 was the actual drivetrain drip issue, the others like a brake job and fluid changes are routine maintenance type items that should be expected.
But for what it is worth, we have been looking around at options of Used cars out there in the 20K to 25K range.....
... so far not impressed, used cars still are at a premium it seems, but boy it is easy to get car fever! haha.......and lock on to the only car on the lot that I must have..... haha!
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carguy75 (01-27-24)
01-27-24, 03:27 AM
#20
Advanced
How could it be cheaper to spend $3,600 vs. spending what it would cost to procure a lower mileage RX? So let's say KBB 12K + 3K repairs = 15K and you want it to be newer model RX350 and lower miles than 133K.
Based on this logic and searching the universe, I can get a Used 2016 (newer year to me), under 100K miles (they'd be at ~90K Miles) for $25,000 - If I were looking to buy a Used Lexus RX350 (which I already have done) - I'd grab one of those for sure.
$25,000 minus my possible $12 to $15K KBB value of my unfixed or fixed RX350 = $10,000 extra I'd have to pay to move up to that because of this issue
Seems like for 3K I get my car going again, for $10K I get a newer 2016 RX350 with 90K miles. Prior to seeing the drivetrain drip on the garage I wasn't spending any of this money. I'm fine with spending 3K as I don't view this 'box with tires' to be anything other than transportation and going down in value, be it a 2013 or a 2016 or a 2024. I'll invest what I've not spent.
As well - the 3K in repairs is actually less in my mind, because only ~$1,200 was the actual drivetrain drip issue, the others like a brake job and fluid changes are routine maintenance type items that should be expected.
But for what it is worth, we have been looking around at options of Used cars out there in the 20K to 25K range........ so far not impressed, used cars still are at a premium it seems, but boy it is easy to get car fever! haha.......and lock on to the only car on the lot that I must have..... haha!
Based on this logic and searching the universe, I can get a Used 2016 (newer year to me), under 100K miles (they'd be at ~90K Miles) for $25,000 - If I were looking to buy a Used Lexus RX350 (which I already have done) - I'd grab one of those for sure.
$25,000 minus my possible $12 to $15K KBB value of my unfixed or fixed RX350 = $10,000 extra I'd have to pay to move up to that because of this issue
Seems like for 3K I get my car going again, for $10K I get a newer 2016 RX350 with 90K miles. Prior to seeing the drivetrain drip on the garage I wasn't spending any of this money. I'm fine with spending 3K as I don't view this 'box with tires' to be anything other than transportation and going down in value, be it a 2013 or a 2016 or a 2024. I'll invest what I've not spent.
As well - the 3K in repairs is actually less in my mind, because only ~$1,200 was the actual drivetrain drip issue, the others like a brake job and fluid changes are routine maintenance type items that should be expected.
But for what it is worth, we have been looking around at options of Used cars out there in the 20K to 25K range.....
... so far not impressed, used cars still are at a premium it seems, but boy it is easy to get car fever! haha.......and lock on to the only car on the lot that I must have..... haha!You forgot to add in the cost of repairing the replacement used RX350 which will probably need similar repairs as well if not the same exact repairs. The timing cover leak is present even on the later(2016+) 3.5 models.
01-27-24, 06:21 AM
#22
Rookie
Thread Starter
and when I bought it Used we patiently shopped around for what we felt would be a good deal for that Used car, I knew it had a very consistent maintenance history at the Dealer and the car was pristine and we've done the same since.
Whatever Used selection might be available is all over again suspect and would need to be vetted, which takes time and you're correct, we will go through some of the normal routine higher expense maintenance items as that newly procured lower mileage vehicle gets more miles...
I do believe that the mind set as mentioned of being faced with a few grand repair and instead choosing to likely trade current monthly payment for an adjusted new payment (possibly higher) (or if no loan, deciding to shell out several more grand instead of a few grand) for something different/more shiny that doesn't 'appear' to have a problem is how people get in trouble financially. Just my opinion. Based on knowing co-workers explaining they got a new car because something needed to be fixed. With all sorts of rationalizations as to why they did (your first sign you might be doing something not in your own best interest) - It needed new tires soon, it was getting 'up there' in miles, it 'fill in the blank'...
Time will tell of course.
Whatever Used selection might be available is all over again suspect and would need to be vetted, which takes time and you're correct, we will go through some of the normal routine higher expense maintenance items as that newly procured lower mileage vehicle gets more miles...
I do believe that the mind set as mentioned of being faced with a few grand repair and instead choosing to likely trade current monthly payment for an adjusted new payment (possibly higher) (or if no loan, deciding to shell out several more grand instead of a few grand) for something different/more shiny that doesn't 'appear' to have a problem is how people get in trouble financially. Just my opinion. Based on knowing co-workers explaining they got a new car because something needed to be fixed. With all sorts of rationalizations as to why they did (your first sign you might be doing something not in your own best interest) - It needed new tires soon, it was getting 'up there' in miles, it 'fill in the blank'...
Time will tell of course.
01-29-24, 07:33 PM
#23
Rookie
Thread Starter
I agree with the above comments. The timing cover leak or seep is never worth repairing. If you want to pay the dealer to do the differential then do so for peace of mind.
However I drove a 1995 Ford Explorer for 10 years with a leaking front differential. I just had the fluid checked and topped up every year. Never got it repaired.
Regarding their other proposed repairs, they are typical dealer loading on repairs that may or may not be needed and overcharging for them. See my individual comments below.
How long do you intend to keep the RX?
Then the additional they also said needs Immediate Attention:
Shock Absorber Replacement - Rear (1) - $746.10 -This price is insane! The replacement rear shocks cost about $80 each from Lexus and it takes 30 minutes to replace each one. I have done it in my garage in that much time. Any local gas station can do this job for under $250. At your mileage both should be replaced.
Brake Job - Front (Replace PAds and Rotors): front pads at 4mm and rotors grooved - $748.44 These are not terrible dealer prices for the brake work..................
Brake Job- Rear (Replace Pads and Rotors) - Pads at 3mm and Rotors Grooved - $694.79 Same comment
Front Hood Struts - $400.51 - This price is insane but mostly because they are using overpriced Lexus struts. You can get aftermarket hood struts from liftsupportdepot.com and have a local gas station install them for less than half the price.
Transmission Fluid Change - $368.94 - This is worth doing although the price is high.
Cooling System Service (Drain and Fill) - $244.24 Again you may as well do it
Brake Flush - $218.45 - This should be done every 3 years anyway.
Transfer Case Fluid Replacement - $134.94 Go ahead and change this fluid.
At 130,000 miles you are due for the coolant replacement but I am surprised they did not also try to sell you spark plug replacement, unless they already did it at a prior service.
Finally you can use this link to find great local car mechanics recommended by listeners of the old Car Talk radio show. It lets you select city and state. The parts on the RX are shared by almost every other Toyota and Lexus model and any competent shop has familiarity working on them as Toyota has sold millions of vehicles over the last 18 years with this same engine, transmission, brakes, differential, transfer case etc. The hood struts are the same on every vehicle sold around the world, Once you find a few shops in your area do a quick Google search for more current information as some of it may be old. https://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files
However I drove a 1995 Ford Explorer for 10 years with a leaking front differential. I just had the fluid checked and topped up every year. Never got it repaired.
Regarding their other proposed repairs, they are typical dealer loading on repairs that may or may not be needed and overcharging for them. See my individual comments below.
How long do you intend to keep the RX?
Then the additional they also said needs Immediate Attention:
Shock Absorber Replacement - Rear (1) - $746.10 -This price is insane! The replacement rear shocks cost about $80 each from Lexus and it takes 30 minutes to replace each one. I have done it in my garage in that much time. Any local gas station can do this job for under $250. At your mileage both should be replaced.
Brake Job - Front (Replace PAds and Rotors): front pads at 4mm and rotors grooved - $748.44 These are not terrible dealer prices for the brake work..................
Brake Job- Rear (Replace Pads and Rotors) - Pads at 3mm and Rotors Grooved - $694.79 Same comment
Front Hood Struts - $400.51 - This price is insane but mostly because they are using overpriced Lexus struts. You can get aftermarket hood struts from liftsupportdepot.com and have a local gas station install them for less than half the price.
Transmission Fluid Change - $368.94 - This is worth doing although the price is high.
Cooling System Service (Drain and Fill) - $244.24 Again you may as well do it
Brake Flush - $218.45 - This should be done every 3 years anyway.
Transfer Case Fluid Replacement - $134.94 Go ahead and change this fluid.
At 130,000 miles you are due for the coolant replacement but I am surprised they did not also try to sell you spark plug replacement, unless they already did it at a prior service.
Finally you can use this link to find great local car mechanics recommended by listeners of the old Car Talk radio show. It lets you select city and state. The parts on the RX are shared by almost every other Toyota and Lexus model and any competent shop has familiarity working on them as Toyota has sold millions of vehicles over the last 18 years with this same engine, transmission, brakes, differential, transfer case etc. The hood struts are the same on every vehicle sold around the world, Once you find a few shops in your area do a quick Google search for more current information as some of it may be old. https://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files
08-06-24, 09:30 PM
#24
Rookie
Thread Starter
Thanks Clutchless! I purchased the Hood Struts and Rear Hatch Powered Gate Struts from www.Liftsupportdepot.com as recommended... Old ones popped off easy with a screwdriver, did the Hood first, then moved to the Rear Hatch Gate, took about 10 minutes each, Paid $115 total.... That's a hell of a lot better than $400 for hood and I'd assume as much or more would have been the cost for the Heavier Rear Gate from Lexus, total rip off - best to have a helper if you're not super handy. Broom stick in the Hood to prop up was useful, and I think you could use a ladder to provide an assist for the rear, but like I said I had a helper to hold up for a few minutes just to make sure. -- Thanks for the tip!
Let www.liftsupportdepot.com know and they promptly sent another pair, confirmed I ordered and they sent the correct parts. Awesome, maybe it was just a bad pair. Installed those and the exact same thing happened, started out silent (so the noise was definitely from these liftgate struts as the noise immediately went away once installed!!), but over time, the noises returned and would get worse and worse. Every little bump, loud knocking, even slowing down and turning if a dip, clunking noise from the rear hatch. Ended up getting struts online from a semi-local Lexus Dealer. What they provided was the OEM Struts from Stabilus, ironically liftsupportdepot also sells this brand but they only provided the same flavor as originally ordered. I installed those from the Lexus Dealer once they arrived, the noises stopped immediately. However - about two weeks later, the noises started to occur again.
Still haven't figured it out, everything seems tight as far as the Brackets that the struts attach to, the Struts are able to slightly move on the upper ball stud, whereas the lower connection to the ball studs on each side are pretty non-moveable. Not sure if they should be or not at all. Don't know how I'd adjust that anyways.
Any thoughts on this anyone?
08-07-24, 08:20 AM
#25
Moderator
Noise tells you that something is moving around [play]. You mentioned some play at the ball-socket. The strut gets tension to support the weight so it becomes hard to gauge the play. Only way is to decouple from the other end and try to jiggle in all three planes after attaching at the ball-socket joint.
IMHO the OEM for the rears are not priced exorbitantly high. Also I am over concerned about the amount of counter force the motor has to fight and being conservative I opted for OEM for the rear hatch, The fronts I bought after market and for now they seem to be overcompensating and I have to fight to close the hood.
For OEM, check online Lexus retailers like Bell Lexus North Scottsdale AZ etc.
Salim
IMHO the OEM for the rears are not priced exorbitantly high. Also I am over concerned about the amount of counter force the motor has to fight and being conservative I opted for OEM for the rear hatch, The fronts I bought after market and for now they seem to be overcompensating and I have to fight to close the hood.
For OEM, check online Lexus retailers like Bell Lexus North Scottsdale AZ etc.
Salim
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