2010 requires synthetic oil
02-25-09, 04:46 PM
#31
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Great News
You dont need to change my mind, I work as an engineer for a production plant. We changed over to Royal Purple synflim GT synthetic gear oil years ago and we have monitoring equipments that can prove mechines run cooler with less vibration using synthetic.
The point is, even if I use synthetic in my car, I would not go 15000 miles. Thats 3 times the factory recommandation, but its your car and you are willing to assume the risk, then more power to you. I would rather spend a $100 more a year and go by the factory recommandation just to be on the save side.
The point is, even if I use synthetic in my car, I would not go 15000 miles. Thats 3 times the factory recommandation, but its your car and you are willing to assume the risk, then more power to you. I would rather spend a $100 more a year and go by the factory recommandation just to be on the save side.
Just a few years ago we were changing our oil at 2K & now 5K, thats more then 100% longer. Just like synthetics, dino oil has improved too. If you were told to go to 5K 5 years ago what would you have done, now you are at 5K. See what I am trying to get across, time & engineering moves foward.
02-26-09, 06:03 AM
#33
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If Lexus tells me its ok for me to triple their recommanded oil change interval, then I would it. What ever synthetic oil you buy, its all the same, just the additives are different. Chance are, the Lexus synthetic oil is very similar to those long life oil you been using and yet Lexus still recommands a 5000 mile oil change. Although I think thats a bit conservative, yet I think like Lexus, better safe than sorry.
02-26-09, 06:15 AM
#34
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Does anyone think that with these hard times Lexus would tell their customers to stay away from its service department 66% more?
They would like u to come in 66% more - not less.
But I do agree its the filtering that must be done right & if that means 5K I will do it too.
Have u ever done a lube analysis at the oil change time? I have done them at 15K with synthetics & it comes back "continue using the oil over & over again as long as u keep chnging the filter."
They would like u to come in 66% more - not less.
But I do agree its the filtering that must be done right & if that means 5K I will do it too.
Have u ever done a lube analysis at the oil change time? I have done them at 15K with synthetics & it comes back "continue using the oil over & over again as long as u keep chnging the filter."
02-26-09, 03:59 PM
#35
Super Moderator
I just finished cleaning up this thread and am going to ask people to settle down. There's no reason to get jumpy on this topic.
A few points on this subject, I would like to get across.
I know people who have run vehicles on synthetic oil for 15,000+ miles. A lot depends on what they drive, how they drive it, where they live, the climate, etc. Perfectly conceivable.
I have my own experiences back south of the border and they were worse than anything you'd experience up here, high altitude, lower oxygen, pollution, roads, my own driving style (see my avatar in case you don't know), etc. and put a lot of different synthetic oils, additives, you named it in an attempt for perfection.
Lexus might specify 5K miles and that's probably not a bad rule of thumb, but the answer truly comes down to it depends.
A few points on this subject, I would like to get across.
I know people who have run vehicles on synthetic oil for 15,000+ miles. A lot depends on what they drive, how they drive it, where they live, the climate, etc. Perfectly conceivable.
I have my own experiences back south of the border and they were worse than anything you'd experience up here, high altitude, lower oxygen, pollution, roads, my own driving style (see my avatar in case you don't know), etc. and put a lot of different synthetic oils, additives, you named it in an attempt for perfection.
Lexus might specify 5K miles and that's probably not a bad rule of thumb, but the answer truly comes down to it depends.
Last edited by Lexmex; 02-26-09 at 04:02 PM.
02-26-09, 07:47 PM
#36
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I have both an 06 RX 400h and a 97 S550. I absolutely hate having to bring the RX in for service every 5000 miles, Time is money to me. By Comparision, the S550, is a car with a list of 106K, and has a service interval every 11,000 Miles. I'll say that again, the regular service intervals is every 11,000 miles, which for me is every 14 months... Of course a full oil change is 2 more quarts than the RX, but the bottom line is I wish that the RX didn't need to be brought in every 5000 miles especially since there is alot less time the ICE is running..
04-10-09, 12:24 PM
#37
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I have a 2009 RX350 and want to run Lubro Moly synthetic motor oil can anyone tell me what weight oil I should be running?
I feel because I live in Wisconsin I will be better off to run one oil for spring and summer and a different weight oil for the fall and winter any suggestions.
I change my oil every 6 months running around 5000-6000 miles per oil change.
I feel because I live in Wisconsin I will be better off to run one oil for spring and summer and a different weight oil for the fall and winter any suggestions.
I change my oil every 6 months running around 5000-6000 miles per oil change.
04-10-09, 04:36 PM
#38
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I have a 2009 RX350 and want to run Lubro Moly synthetic motor oil can anyone tell me what weight oil I should be running?
I feel because I live in Wisconsin I will be better off to run one oil for spring and summer and a different weight oil for the fall and winter any suggestions.
I change my oil every 6 months running around 5000-6000 miles per oil change.
I feel because I live in Wisconsin I will be better off to run one oil for spring and summer and a different weight oil for the fall and winter any suggestions.
I change my oil every 6 months running around 5000-6000 miles per oil change.
04-11-09, 05:16 AM
#39
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I was checking out Castrol to see if it's still made in Germany but what I found was made in England. I have read the good stuff is made in Germany and will have a Mo4/Mo5 on the bottle but I have no idea if this is still true to date as many threads I was reading are from 2005.
04-11-09, 08:50 AM
#40
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Yes I do. That is the reason they have a 5W-30. The 5W is for the cold & the 30W is for the heat.
The best synthetic's are made right here in WI. up in Superior, the AMSOIL Company. Check out their web page for further info on all their products.
The best synthetic's are made right here in WI. up in Superior, the AMSOIL Company. Check out their web page for further info on all their products.
04-12-09, 06:04 AM
#42
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Amsoil does makes some great oils, but if I were living in WI, I'd be using 0W30. The Castrol 0W30 is still made in Germany...you can always check the rear of the bottle to verify that.
04-12-09, 07:10 AM
#43
You might not have, because it is technically incorrect. Many people assume that is what it means, but it is not.
in a 5W-30, the oil flows like a 5 weight does, but protects the engine the same way a 30 weight does... the second number is basically the oils "stickiness" and describes how well it clings to engine parts - if using a straight weight oil, the thicker the oil, the better it sticks to bearings and journals, however, with multigrade oils, we try to make the oil flow better, so it comes out thinner, but we still need it to cling to the metals in the engine to protect them...
Similarly, a 0W-20 has an oil flow rate of a 0 weight oil, but the protection of a 20 weight oil...
it has nothing to do with hot or cold, other than the obvious that a 5 weight oil flows better than a 10 weight oil when it is extremely cold out, and a 30 weight oil protects better than a 20 weight oil under extreme high temperatures...
There is only one place this argument about long oil change intervals doesn't hold up... Contaminants. I know you say change the filter, blah blah blah, but what about fuel and water contaminants - oil filters do not separate these. Vehicles that idle a lot or always go on short trips many times don't vaporize the water that has condensed inside the engine, thus contaminating the oil. Similarly, on cold starts, before things are nice and warm, a certain amount of fuel will be washed past the rings and into the oil... Enough cold starts and you have severely contaminated oil. Now, if you go and have some nice long trips, it may burn / vaporize all of that, but that is just one reason why your theory doesn't hold up for everyone. It may work ok for you, but giving that kind of advice to someone who doesn't know there are differences may be bad for their engine in their particular climate / driving style may not be right...
in a 5W-30, the oil flows like a 5 weight does, but protects the engine the same way a 30 weight does... the second number is basically the oils "stickiness" and describes how well it clings to engine parts - if using a straight weight oil, the thicker the oil, the better it sticks to bearings and journals, however, with multigrade oils, we try to make the oil flow better, so it comes out thinner, but we still need it to cling to the metals in the engine to protect them...
Similarly, a 0W-20 has an oil flow rate of a 0 weight oil, but the protection of a 20 weight oil...
it has nothing to do with hot or cold, other than the obvious that a 5 weight oil flows better than a 10 weight oil when it is extremely cold out, and a 30 weight oil protects better than a 20 weight oil under extreme high temperatures...
There is only one place this argument about long oil change intervals doesn't hold up... Contaminants. I know you say change the filter, blah blah blah, but what about fuel and water contaminants - oil filters do not separate these. Vehicles that idle a lot or always go on short trips many times don't vaporize the water that has condensed inside the engine, thus contaminating the oil. Similarly, on cold starts, before things are nice and warm, a certain amount of fuel will be washed past the rings and into the oil... Enough cold starts and you have severely contaminated oil. Now, if you go and have some nice long trips, it may burn / vaporize all of that, but that is just one reason why your theory doesn't hold up for everyone. It may work ok for you, but giving that kind of advice to someone who doesn't know there are differences may be bad for their engine in their particular climate / driving style may not be right...
Last edited by mitsuguy; 04-12-09 at 07:16 AM.
04-12-09, 08:29 AM
#44
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You might not have, because it is technically incorrect. Many people assume that is what it means, but it is not.
in a 5W-30, the oil flows like a 5 weight does, but protects the engine the same way a 30 weight does... the second number is basically the oils "stickiness" and describes how well it clings to engine parts - if using a straight weight oil, the thicker the oil, the better it sticks to bearings and journals, however, with multigrade oils, we try to make the oil flow better, so it comes out thinner, but we still need it to cling to the metals in the engine to protect them...
Similarly, a 0W-20 has an oil flow rate of a 0 weight oil, but the protection of a 20 weight oil...
it has nothing to do with hot or cold, other than the obvious that a 5 weight oil flows better than a 10 weight oil when it is extremely cold out, and a 30 weight oil protects better than a 20 weight oil under extreme high temperatures...
There is only one place this argument about long oil change intervals doesn't hold up... Contaminants. I know you say change the filter, blah blah blah, but what about fuel and water contaminants - oil filters do not separate these. Vehicles that idle a lot or always go on short trips many times don't vaporize the water that has condensed inside the engine, thus contaminating the oil. Similarly, on cold starts, before things are nice and warm, a certain amount of fuel will be washed past the rings and into the oil... Enough cold starts and you have severely contaminated oil. Now, if you go and have some nice long trips, it may burn / vaporize all of that, but that is just one reason why your theory doesn't hold up for everyone. It may work ok for you, but giving that kind of advice to someone who doesn't know there are differences may be bad for their engine in their particular climate / driving style may not be right...
in a 5W-30, the oil flows like a 5 weight does, but protects the engine the same way a 30 weight does... the second number is basically the oils "stickiness" and describes how well it clings to engine parts - if using a straight weight oil, the thicker the oil, the better it sticks to bearings and journals, however, with multigrade oils, we try to make the oil flow better, so it comes out thinner, but we still need it to cling to the metals in the engine to protect them...
Similarly, a 0W-20 has an oil flow rate of a 0 weight oil, but the protection of a 20 weight oil...
it has nothing to do with hot or cold, other than the obvious that a 5 weight oil flows better than a 10 weight oil when it is extremely cold out, and a 30 weight oil protects better than a 20 weight oil under extreme high temperatures...
There is only one place this argument about long oil change intervals doesn't hold up... Contaminants. I know you say change the filter, blah blah blah, but what about fuel and water contaminants - oil filters do not separate these. Vehicles that idle a lot or always go on short trips many times don't vaporize the water that has condensed inside the engine, thus contaminating the oil. Similarly, on cold starts, before things are nice and warm, a certain amount of fuel will be washed past the rings and into the oil... Enough cold starts and you have severely contaminated oil. Now, if you go and have some nice long trips, it may burn / vaporize all of that, but that is just one reason why your theory doesn't hold up for everyone. It may work ok for you, but giving that kind of advice to someone who doesn't know there are differences may be bad for their engine in their particular climate / driving style may not be right...
Kind of a long explaination that says that, 5W for cold & 30W for heat.
The "KISS" form of saying it.
04-12-09, 08:35 AM
#45
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AMSOIL has a 0W - 20 & a 0W-30 too.
And AMSOIL is made in the good old USA. "No Iran in the can."