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Its a standard metric thread so finding that diameter is no issue. If no one can confirm the pitch and length on here, I will just have to take a trip with the OEM bolt in hand to get the closest length, cut in a vice and retap the end. Not that hard but easier if someone had one off their car now and confirmed the specs to save myself and anyone else in the future prep time doing this mod.
The trans drain plug in our 2012 RX350 U660E and 2012 Camry U760E is 12mm-1.25 x 12mm long.
The bolt threaded length can't be any longer or it will hit the plastic level tube.
The trans fill plug is 18mm-1.5.
Last edited by rababich; 01-01-20 at 09:28 PM.
Reason: Added info
Another option is to replace the engine oil drain plug with a magnetic engine oil drain plug.
The engine oil drain plug is M12-1.25 and when shortened to 1/2" can be used to replace the 6mm allen head M12-1.25 trans pan drain plug.
The pic shows an aftermarket engine oil drain plug on the left and a shortened McMaster bolt on the right.
Why pay extra for a magnetic plug if you are going to cut off the magnet? You could buy 4 OEM plugs for the cost of one magnetic plug.
I didn't say buy a magnetic plug for the trans pan.
Buy a magnetic plug to replace the engine oil pan drain plug.
Now you have a plain hex head plug to shorten and use for the trans pan drain plug to replace the allen head plug.
Another option would be to find a reasonably priced M12-1.25 O2 sensor plug with hex head to replace the trans pan allen head plugs.
It almost seems like Lexus decided to use the allen version of an M12 O2 sensor plug in their new trans pans.
Hex head versions of the plugs are available, but I can't find one that is cost effective.
I think that would reduce your ground clearance compared to the Allen head bolt which fits smoothly against the transmission pan. I would not want that big bolt head sticking out straight down from my transmission pan.
I think that would reduce your ground clearance compared to the Allen head bolt which fits smoothly against the transmission pan. I would not want that big bolt head sticking out straight down from my transmission pan.
I don't think it will even come close to sticking out past the frame rail so it won't reduce ground clearance.
Either you do flush or drain and fill both required temp. compensation for fluid correct level measurement.
existing tube(Lexus Straw) is design for 104-113F...
Is 104-113 the confirmed correct temp range per Lexus for the RX350? It may be same straw as other models, but pan may be different. 104-113 is the temp range for our ES350, but it's 10 degrees higher for my Tacoma, actually, 115-130.
I plan on doing a flush every 60K, per the severe service schedule. Our RX350 is barely approaching 20K, so there is plenty of time to confirm this. I suppose I can figure out the min temp myself by running the engine and removing the level drain screw when cold, then measuring the temp as soon as the ATF starts trickling out. Anyone know which is the return ATF line at the radiator? Guess, I'll have to figure that out also. Shouldn't be hard; there are only two lines. I also plan on replacing the WS with Valvoline MaxLife, as I have in the ES350 and Taco. Actually, also in the Corolla and Camry as MaxLife also replaces Type IV. $18 for a gallon jug at walmart; that's a good deal for a proven product.
To the naysayers, replacing the ATF based on it's color is still a good indication of when to replace the ATF, or at least initiate a drain/refill. In general, you want to replace the ATF right before the pink hue disappears from an ATF sample. The mileage to do it will vary depending on driving style and driving in extreme temperatures. The exception is if you push the trany too hard (racing or hard towing) and burn the ATF. It may stay pink'ish but will have a burnt smell, indicating the ATF is toast and needs to be replaced immediately as it will have little if any protection properties. For normal driving, flushing between 60-90K is a good general mileage to do a flush. Or, every 30-50K for a drain/refill.
ATF most definitely is not a lifetime fluid. It will accumulate contaminants, just like motor oil does, but at a slower rate. I've read several articles attempting to explain why manufacturers have gone to 'lifetime' ATF. A reason that made sense to me is that manufacturers were seeing too many trany warranty claims of DIY'ers messing up the ATF replacement procedures - ruining transmissions by putting too much ATF or not enough. Over in the Tacoma World forums, you wouldn't believe how many owners can't even correctly change their motor oil - they drain the ATF instead of the motor oil, then add 5 qts to a crankcase that still has motor oil in it.
Is 104-113 the confirmed correct temp range per Lexus for the RX350? It may be same straw as other models, but pan may be different. 104-113 is the temp range for our ES350, but it's 10 degrees higher for my Tacoma, actually, 115-130.
From my research 104-113 is the correct temp range for checking the fluid level.
But remember, that to check the fluid level correctly, the engine speed must be at 800 RMP, which is higher than the warm idle RPM.
If you want to properly adjust the fluid level, I would recommend doing the while procedure, which is not so bad. It requires putting in a jumper, starting the engine, mowing the gear shift, and removing the jumper. If you do that, the D gear indicator will flash when the fluid temp is correct and the engine will rev up to 800 PRM so you can adjust the level easily.
Or just measure what comes out and put the same amount in.
... Anyone know which is the return ATF line at the radiator? I'll have to figure that out also. Shouldn't be hard; there are only two lines. ..
When you do figure it out mark the lines with direction flow arrows.
Originally Posted by chuyrobles
The mileage to do it will vary depending on driving style and driving in extreme temperatures. The exception is if you push the trany too hard (racing or hard towing) and burn the ATF. .... .
Which is exactly why an aux trans fluid cooler is part of the tow package.
I don't plan on towing or racing, but I'm going to add an aux trans cooler, filter and a drain port.
Originally Posted by chuyrobles
ATF most definitely is not a lifetime fluid. It will accumulate contaminants, ... seeing too many trany warranty claims of DIY'ers messing up the ATF replacement procedures ...- they drain the ATF instead of the motor oil, ...
BTW, the Cadillac XT5 has the same Aisin AWF8F35 trany as the RX350, and their maintenance schedule calls for replacing the ATF, and filter, every 45K . .... .
Second time I did an oil change on a front wheel drive I pulled the trans drain plug by mistake. Saw it immediately by the color difference.
Not surprising that someone else has a change schedule.
From my research 104-113 is the correct temp range for checking the fluid level.
But remember, that to check the fluid level correctly, the engine speed must be at 800 RMP, which is higher than the warm idle RPM.
If you want to properly adjust the fluid level, I would recommend doing the while procedure, which is not so bad. It requires putting in a jumper, starting the engine, mowing the gear shift, and removing the jumper. If you do that, the D gear indicator will flash when the fluid temp is correct and the engine will rev up to 800 PRM so you can adjust the level easily.
Or just measure what comes out and put the same amount in.
I always measure what I take out and add the same amount as I pump new ATF into the trany, then fine-tune the proper level using an IR gun.
I have used two methods to pump in ATF: A Milescraft 1313 drill pump, and gravity.
The pump is great in that I can use a variable drill to pump in the proper amount as it is pumped out into a 5-gallon bucket labeled with quart markings. What sucks is all the lines I have to connect to set the pump up; it can get messy when disconnecting and putting it all away.
Using gravity, I use a funnel and clear tubing to fill up the trany. Much less hassle cleaning up. However, I have found out that the car pumps out ATF faster than gravity can feed the tranny. So, after draining the ATF pan, I have overfilled the trany by a quart to get a head start. Has worked out great on the ES350 and Taco.
I know people don't trust the IR method, but I have found that the IR method is quite accurate on my Taco. It has an UltraGuage which measure ATF temps at two locations in the tranny (pan and TC) - the difference between temp readings is less than a degree. On the ES350 I compared the pan temp to the ATF temp as it was coming out of the drain plug; again, the temp range was less than a degree. So, that's what I use as it is easy and convenient, and I have had no trany issues to date. However, to be on the safe side, I will transfer the UltraGauge to the RX350 to compare the temp readings and make sure the IR method will be reliable in future flushings (flushes?).
.... Using gravity, I use a funnel and clear tubing to fill up the trany. ....
How do you get the tube into the trans fill hole?
I can't even see the fill plug from above in our RX350 and a '12 Camry.
It looks like the wheel/fender liner need to be removed to get to it.
How do you get the tube into the trans fill hole?
I can't even see the fill plug from above in our RX350 and a '12 Camry.
It looks like the wheel/fender liner need to be removed to get to it.
IIRC there are 2 10mm bolts. Remove them and then you can push one side of the liner out of the way to access the fill hole. The first time I did it, I removed the tire. The other times I just had the tire turned out of the way.
12-31-19, 06:40 PM
