RX350 Transmission Oil Change (merged threads)
#422
Instructor
Indeed, but they probably don't drive like my wife. Jack rabbit starts, downshifting to pass on freeway (80mph limit in some parts of Utah mind you) and quick stops. You think she was going code three somewhere.
#423
Intermediate
The RX350 can handle aggressive driving, but we need to change all the fluids on time
#424
Driver School Candidate
Well I bit the bullet and ordered 12 quarts of Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid and 2 quarts of Amsoil Severe Gear® 75W-90 for the front and back differentials.
I talked to my mechanic I used on my other vehicles and he was very knowledgeable on the Toyota's.
We will work together on doing three separate fill and drain's on the transmission with me driving for 15-20 minutes to make sure it is all mixed between the fill and drains.
On the first fill and drain we will replace the gear lube on the front and rear differentials at the same time.
On the second and third fill and drains he will use his $8K scanner to check all systems and do a complete inspection of the vehicle including brake pad and rotor thickness much like the Lexus certification checklist.
On mine it looks like the brakes rotors and pads were just done and the tires were replaced about 10 K ago.
This will give me piece in mind as I will be there for each procedure and verify the transmission fluid level using the proper procedure at draining the excess at 104 degrees "F" automatic transmission temperature when reached on the scanner.
It will also be much cheaper to do this way working together with my mechanic as he has the lift and all the tools to do the job.
I talked to my mechanic I used on my other vehicles and he was very knowledgeable on the Toyota's.
We will work together on doing three separate fill and drain's on the transmission with me driving for 15-20 minutes to make sure it is all mixed between the fill and drains.
On the first fill and drain we will replace the gear lube on the front and rear differentials at the same time.
On the second and third fill and drains he will use his $8K scanner to check all systems and do a complete inspection of the vehicle including brake pad and rotor thickness much like the Lexus certification checklist.
On mine it looks like the brakes rotors and pads were just done and the tires were replaced about 10 K ago.
This will give me piece in mind as I will be there for each procedure and verify the transmission fluid level using the proper procedure at draining the excess at 104 degrees "F" automatic transmission temperature when reached on the scanner.
It will also be much cheaper to do this way working together with my mechanic as he has the lift and all the tools to do the job.
#425
Moderator
The problem with your plan is that warm ATF expands and the cooler ATF in the bottles will be contracted. So if you drain and measure X amount from your warm/hot transmission, the cooler stuff from the bottles will be a different amount (if both measure the same when the stuff from the bottles heats up it will expand) and it will be difficult to know if your ATF levels are correct, especially if you do this 3 times in a row in a short period of time. You may need to heat the ATF in the bottles so the fluid is closer to transmission temperature so you can have a more accurate fluid level. Heat the bottles of ATF in some hot water that is close to transmission temp and you should be okay.
Good luck with the scanner procedure as you have a very short window of time to work and after driving your car and with only replacing 2 quarts at a time, most of the fluid will be way over 104 degrees. Do you plan to wait for it to cool down?
Since you have 12 quarts, and plan to do the scan tool fluid level procedure, you may as well pull a transmission cooler line and do a fluid exchange with a bucket and a funnel. Mark the bucket so you know how many quarts are in it. Then pump out 4 quarts, stop the car and pour in 4. Do this 3 times, the do the scan fluid level check. Use clear hoses so you can see the new fluid as it replaces the old stuff. I have done this many times on other cars with dipsticks in the transmission. Or if your guy has a transmission fluid exchange (flush) machine, just use it.
I always do the drain and fill cold after the car has sat for many hours. I only do one drain and fill a day usually on Saturday or Sunday morning.
Let us know how it turns out.
Good luck with the scanner procedure as you have a very short window of time to work and after driving your car and with only replacing 2 quarts at a time, most of the fluid will be way over 104 degrees. Do you plan to wait for it to cool down?
Since you have 12 quarts, and plan to do the scan tool fluid level procedure, you may as well pull a transmission cooler line and do a fluid exchange with a bucket and a funnel. Mark the bucket so you know how many quarts are in it. Then pump out 4 quarts, stop the car and pour in 4. Do this 3 times, the do the scan fluid level check. Use clear hoses so you can see the new fluid as it replaces the old stuff. I have done this many times on other cars with dipsticks in the transmission. Or if your guy has a transmission fluid exchange (flush) machine, just use it.
I always do the drain and fill cold after the car has sat for many hours. I only do one drain and fill a day usually on Saturday or Sunday morning.
Let us know how it turns out.
Last edited by Clutchless; 03-04-20 at 09:24 PM.
#426
I concur with doing these ATF drain-and-fills while the fluid is cold. When my turn rolls around (probably at 60,000 miles), I will do the procedure on three successive early mornings before the vehicle is driven. That should give me the best chance of finishing up with the proper fill level in the transmission unit. I plan to stick with the Toyota WS fluid.
#427
Driver School Candidate
Thanks Clutchless
The plan was to check the fluid temp and make sure it was under 104 degrees before doing the drain. Then I would do the fill with the same amount and get the temp up to 104 degrees and drain the excess. I would drive the car and then let it cool off until I see the temp under 104 degrees on the Scangauge II and repeat.
I think this would be the safest way to go and depending on how much fluid drains each time determines how many times I will do a drain and fill.
The last fill I will replace the crush washers with new ones.
It is still cold here in WI so I will just move the car outside to cool off. I can probably do at least two per day.
I just do not feel comfortable with draining 4 quarts through the transmission line and refilling on this transmission. The way I am thinking of doing it will assure the level is correct every time I drive it even if it takes a bit longer. With my Scangauge II hooked up until I finish should help speed up the process between the fill and Drains.
Your thoughts?
The plan was to check the fluid temp and make sure it was under 104 degrees before doing the drain. Then I would do the fill with the same amount and get the temp up to 104 degrees and drain the excess. I would drive the car and then let it cool off until I see the temp under 104 degrees on the Scangauge II and repeat.
I think this would be the safest way to go and depending on how much fluid drains each time determines how many times I will do a drain and fill.
The last fill I will replace the crush washers with new ones.
It is still cold here in WI so I will just move the car outside to cool off. I can probably do at least two per day.
I just do not feel comfortable with draining 4 quarts through the transmission line and refilling on this transmission. The way I am thinking of doing it will assure the level is correct every time I drive it even if it takes a bit longer. With my Scangauge II hooked up until I finish should help speed up the process between the fill and Drains.
Your thoughts?
#428
Racer
You WILL Need to reach the proper temperature when checking the level to see if it is at the proper fill level.
I still think that the best method is to use a fluid exchange machine.
#429
Driver School Candidate
Thanks for all the replies. I will have several matching clear containers and digital thermometer to check the temp of the old and new as I do the fill and drains. If the old is too hot I can put the container outside in the snow until it cools off to the same temp as the new going in. Then I will adjust the level of the new fluid to match the old fluid level before refilling. On the last fill and drain I will do the Scangage II check to make sure the level is correct
Does that seem to be the best way with the fill and drain approach?
Does that seem to be the best way with the fill and drain approach?
#430
Racer
Thanks for all the replies. I will have several matching clear containers and digital thermometer to check the temp of the old and new as I do the fill and drains. If the old is too hot I can put the container outside in the snow until it cools off to the same temp as the new going in. Then I will adjust the level of the new fluid to match the old fluid level before refilling. On the last fill and drain I will do the Scangage II check to make sure the level is correct
Does that seem to be the best way with the fill and drain approach?
Does that seem to be the best way with the fill and drain approach?
#431
Driver School Candidate
The problem is the shop is about 12 miles from where I live. I plan to leave it there till all the fill & drains are done. Also the mechanic does this on the side so I have to fit to his schedule. I will bring the car to him the night before so the first one will be easy. I am trying to time it so after driving it for 15-20 Minutes I will let it cool off outside his heated garage before doing the next one probably in the afternoon. We will repeat this until we get close to using up the 12 quarts and be done. He does not charge much and most of the time the car will be outside his shop cooling off so he can work on other vehicles at that time.
This way I know that almost all the fluid in the transmission will be Amsoil and I will do a single change every 60,000 after that.
I was trying to speed up the process but it seems this will be the best approach to get it done. I have another car so leaving it there should not be a problem.
This way I know that almost all the fluid in the transmission will be Amsoil and I will do a single change every 60,000 after that.
I was trying to speed up the process but it seems this will be the best approach to get it done. I have another car so leaving it there should not be a problem.
#433
It probably doesn't even catch the debris from the clutch discs wearing.
The clutch disc material should be suspended in the trans fluid and will get flushed out with a fluid change.
A magnet could catch steel particles, but the new drain plug/level tube design makes is difficult to use a mag plug.
There may be a magnet installed in the pan.
Not sure what happens to aluminum particles.
The following users liked this post:
Cocal (03-07-20)
#434
Driver School Candidate
heshamos
Nope not OCD! I am retired and can take the time to research on whatever I am doing. With all the data I got here I came to a logical conclusion on how to approach the transmission fluid change in the safest way possible. I did the same thing when I built this reverse trike before retiring . I can strip all the quick release covers and seat and have the engine and drive train removed in about an hour.
I never had any problems in the 8900 miles I have driven so far by taking my time to get it right the first time!
With being able to help on the fluid change I will learn and know at the end it was done properly.
Nope not OCD! I am retired and can take the time to research on whatever I am doing. With all the data I got here I came to a logical conclusion on how to approach the transmission fluid change in the safest way possible. I did the same thing when I built this reverse trike before retiring . I can strip all the quick release covers and seat and have the engine and drive train removed in about an hour.
I never had any problems in the 8900 miles I have driven so far by taking my time to get it right the first time!
With being able to help on the fluid change I will learn and know at the end it was done properly.
#435
heshamos
Nope not OCD! I am retired and can take the time to research on whatever I am doing. With all the data I got here I came to a logical conclusion on how to approach the transmission fluid change in the safest way possible. I did the same thing when I built this reverse trike before retiring . I can strip all the quick release covers and seat and have the engine and drive train removed in about an hour.
I never had any problems in the 8900 miles I have driven so far by taking my time to get it right the first time!
With being able to help on the fluid change I will learn and know at the end it was done properly.
Nope not OCD! I am retired and can take the time to research on whatever I am doing. With all the data I got here I came to a logical conclusion on how to approach the transmission fluid change in the safest way possible. I did the same thing when I built this reverse trike before retiring . I can strip all the quick release covers and seat and have the engine and drive train removed in about an hour.
I never had any problems in the 8900 miles I have driven so far by taking my time to get it right the first time!
With being able to help on the fluid change I will learn and know at the end it was done properly.