Clutchless

Because he knows that the 450h has a very different transmission than the 350. I know because I have had 2 Lexus hybrids and changed the transmission fluid on both. You are lucky in that the job is much simpler and easier. It is just a drain and fill of all the fluid.
The hybrid has what is called a Power transfer unit. It holds between 4 and 5 quarts.
It is serviced like a manual transmission in that you will drain out all the fluid, then fill it back up until fluid comes out of the fill hole, then you are done! This is just like filling a differential, transfer case or manual transmission.
Always loosen the fill bolt first so you know you can fill it up again after draining!

See this thread on the hybrid section of this forum before starting work https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hyb...-and-rear.html

See this video but note this comment below: My preference is to fill until it overflows. If you drive until it warms up and open the fill plug again you will drain more as the fluid expands when hot. However, his alternate fill hole may be better.

The video here is excellent but I hear people say how much oil we have to add and on some sites it says measure how much you drain and add the same amount. In some other sites it says fill it until it overflows, put the filler plug back on and drive it until it's warm, remove the filler plug and check again if it needs some more. Here is the easy way I do it and I do it only once without removing the plug again. You need 4 quart + 1/4 quart total(I have seen three RX450H using that amount of oil). You can't add this amount through the filler hole on the right side of cv joint because it overflows. You add this amount by removing the plug on the left side of CV joint after removing the plastic cover that is held in place by 2 10mm bolt. It's located on the top of the transmission on the same side as the filler plug but the other side of the CV joint. Add this amount through that hole and you are done. Disclaimer: This is the way I do it and works for me. It's not a factory instruction. Do not forget to drain first by following the instruction in this video.

NickSP

Thanks for the helpful post and link.

Dxpliciton

iTrader: (3)

Just did my first drain and refill on my 2014 RX350 F Sport, with the 8 speed transmission and the drain bolt is a bit different and i wanted to make people aware of it. I needed to run to the store and get tools for removal, so im trying to save those the headache of doing the same. Here are pics of my drain bolt, that have a small Torx screw in the center. The T-40 Torx screw is the drain the excess screw, instead of removing a plastic tubing like seen in other videos. You remove the T-40 Torx and the excess comes out, and then you need a 17mm Hex bit to remove the drain itself which comes out with the plastic tube attached. I hope this helps someone out to get the needed tools before starting the job. Thank you all for the posts and information as it was most helpful to me during my experience.

salimshah

After dealing with first gen transmission fluid change discussions for years, I am not going to touch the 3rd gen transmission fluid change discussion even with a 10ft pole.

The only caution I will share is that if any one embarks on this, please remove the Filler plug before touching the drain plug. If you drain the fluid out and are unable to open or worse still, strip the filler plug, you will have a nasty problem at hand.

Salim

NickSP

Invaluable advise to work on the filler plug first. Can't imagine draining the fluid out and then not able to fill it back up. Yikes!!

RX in NC

We have to deal with this issue on the Jaguar forum I utilize. Too many inexperienced DIY Jaguar owners unscrew their easy-to-access ZF transmission drain plug and drain the old ATF before realizing just how difficult it is to access the ZF fill plug (and that a custom-cut 8mm Allen wrench section is needed to unscrew it)....

Clutchless

An excellent tutorial by a Toyota Master Tech on how to change your transmission fluid with an addendum at the end for the 8 speed. He explains how to do the fluid temp check by jumping a couple of terminals on the OBD2 plug and where on the pan to point your infrared temp gun if doing that method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRxS...ature=youtu.be

Non

Thanks for sharing the video. I'm planning to drain and fill my transmission in a week or two. I really want to check the level, rather than measure and replace.

salimshah

Please consider all methods. You will chose one at the end, but nothing wrong in measuring before discarding (recycling). The drained volume measurement takes out the change in volume due to temperature [assuming you measure drained and new at the same temperature]. The biggest flaw in drained-measure is if the previously filled volume was wrong, you will end up wrong volume after the fill.

Salim

Non

This is good advice Salim, I'vr already considered all the methods, and I believe they all work. But for me I chose to do the level check method for two main reasons: First I want to drain hot fluid, not cold, I believe it's better and more fluid will come out. Second, I don't trust that the factory level is perfect.
Add to that that I'm more of a perfectionist, and I like engineering challenges

CarCareNut

Very true. Here’s the 4 methods ranked by accuracy in my opinion:

1- Techstream : the most accurate as you can get a direct reading from the AT temp sensor inside the transmission. Easiest method IF you have a techstream.

2- Using the drive indicator is 2nd accurate and it drops to second only because the complication of going bank and forth to see the light unless you have a helper. Somewhat cumbersome to do unless you practice it and a helper watching the light while you adjust is almost a must.

3- Using the temp gun is not accurate. In my testing before I filmed my video I actually tested the temp gun vs. techstream and it was all over the place. The location I pointed in the video seemed the closest to the actual reading but not 100% it was always a few degrees off. If your adjustment range was 95-110 at techstream 95 it was reading 91-92 so if you’re gonna use the temp gun I’d first get the correct temp range and then adjust at a mid point so you’re sure that you’re actually in the range. This method is very appealing because it’s very easy.

4- not do a level adjustment and just add the same fluid amount. Like others have mentioned this can work counting that the factory level was right to begin with. Most of them are but some are not. Park your car in extreme cold weather and you’ll see that there’s no drive for a while until the fluid warms up and rises because it was low filled from the factory. Seen this a lot. so this method is easy but far less accurate and if you’re doing all this work might as well do the job all the way and verify the fluid level as well?

The overflow type transmissions are very sensitive to fluid level. Some of the common indications of low fluid level on the 6 speed and 8 speed is very rough reverse engagement, shift flare and delayed drive engagement when cold. Common indicators of overfilled transmission fluid is fluid leak from the vent and axle seals. Also whining noises from the trans oil pump especially on the 8 speed.

i said this in the video but I was reiterate the importance of pushing the pin for the cooler valve on the 8 speed transmission. If you don’t the fluid level could drop low because you were not circulating fluid to the oil cooler in the models that is equipped with one.

hope this helps someone.

Non

I have a question about the drive indicator method, because I read online instructions that were for a Camry, not RX350.

My question is about the engine RPM, the instruction said that when you do the drive indicator method, the computer raises the engine RPM to 800 for accurate reading.

Is this also true for RX350?

CarCareNut

The logic for the fluid detection range is the same for all Toyota, Lexus and Scion models. Once the fluid enters the detection range the engine ecu will maintain the idle speed at around 800 rpm which is optimal for an accurate fluid level adjustment. So this does apply to the RX350 as well.

Enz

iTrader: (1)

Is 10 WS quarts enough, the AWD fluid capacity is 7 quarts, assuming I will drain and fill under or about 2 quarts on average, then I can do this 5 times. I should not be draining over 2 qts unless its overfilled right? Should I get 12 quarts instead? The best price/Qt right now is for 10 on fleabay.

When should I do this next?

Drain plug is an M12 right? I have a selection of gasket/crush washers since this is my 4th vehicle that I’m doing fluids service on (oil, tranny, frt/rr diff, xcase). I have M12 copper crush washers from my Nissan oil drain plug.

Are these correct?

drain crush washer pn: 90430-12008

torque bolt 29 ft-lbs, 6mm allen, plastic tube 7 in-lbs., 6mm allen

side fill crush washer pn: 90430-18008

torque bolt 36 ft-lbs, 24 mm

splash guard 2x10mm bolts

operating temp: 104-113F



Do you use Max life or Toy WS? I heard a lot of people using Maxlife specially in the Toy forums. It’s not about the price (though ML is half the price) but it is conv. vs synth. and some think the ML is better. I use Valvoline 75W-90 synth gear oil on all 4 of my vehicles, Valv Maxlife for my rx300 tranny (got a deal on Valv Import so I will be switching to that), and Valv Dex/Mex for my 00 4Runner (until I run out, then Import). Redline MT90 for the manual tranny on my truck. Mobil 1 mainly for engine oil.

BTW, I’m using 2 identical milk jugs, one I cleaned really well and the other I just rinsed. The dirty one will be for draining and the clean one will be used to match the amount of fluid in the dirty jug. No need to measure anything! Just match amount! This saves you time of having to clean the dirty ATF before filling with clean ATF.

Pick up the Giant FloTool red funnel for $7. It is HUGE, you'll never spill any fluids ever again! I even saw someone making this into a urinal complete with plumbing in his garage lol!

Also I didn’t see anyone mentioning using a Bluetooth ODBC reader and the Torque app to measure tranny temp. This worked for my RX300 and 4runner.

Non

I too read claims by people on the internet that the WS is not synthetic, but is conventional. I don't believe it for two reasons: First, other people on the internet claimed that the WS is synthetic, and second, many owners (not all of them) never change their ATF and still manage to get 150 or 200k miles on their transmissions, how would that be possible on some crappy, inferior fluid?