RX350 Transmission Oil Change (merged threads)
08-17-21, 10:45 AM
#601
Yes, that was my first series of ATF drain-and-fills on this vehicle. All three times over a five-day span drained exactly 2.25 quarts each time.
Regarding why yours only drained 1.75 quarts, did you remove the 24mm fill plug first and leave it off during the draining process?
Regarding why yours only drained 1.75 quarts, did you remove the 24mm fill plug first and leave it off during the draining process?
08-17-21, 11:09 AM
#602
Intermediate
Hmmm, wonder why you can drain 2.25 quarts out. I could only drain about 1.75 quarts. In my case, I warmed up the engine for 5 min and also, the amount is verified to be correct by later draining adjustment at temp of 115F. I don't think draining cold will make that much amount difference. Interesting. Was your first time draining out that amount as well? Thanks.
I read comments by a Toyota transmission tech saying that the ATF level may not be perfect from the factory, so when I did my first ATF drain and fill I checked the level beforehand. Mine was right on the money, maybe 1/2 ounce over. I did mine hot, after driving from work, and I also got less than 2 quarts out.
Last edited by Non; 08-17-21 at 11:13 AM.
08-17-21, 12:16 PM
#603
All automatic transmissions are filled by robotic systems at the factory so I believe the chances of winding up with one that has been improperly filled are extremely remote. As long as my wife's 2015 RX350 does not show any signs of leaking ATF, I will continue with multiple cold drain-and-fills by measuring how much old ATF drains out and then pouring that exact same amount of fresh ATF in.
08-17-21, 01:54 PM
#604
Intermediate
08-17-21, 08:48 PM
#605
I did loose the fill bolt but did not remove it when draining. But I feel that should not be an issue since the air can easily fill in and I left it draining until it stopped dripping.
Yes, that was my first series of ATF drain-and-fills on this vehicle. All three times over a five-day span drained exactly 2.25 quarts each time.
Regarding why yours only drained 1.75 quarts, did you remove the 24mm fill plug first and leave it off during the draining process?
Regarding why yours only drained 1.75 quarts, did you remove the 24mm fill plug first and leave it off during the draining process?
Last edited by sz8; 08-17-21 at 08:56 PM.
08-17-21, 08:54 PM
#606
I think that is the only explanation since I know the original level of my car was correct because later I adjust-drained the amount out so that it took exact the same 1.75 quarts in. I also did the same for my 2017 RX and it did drain 3+ quarts as expected (not any less than cold draining). It is still very puzzling. Since now I am confident the amount of the fluid in my car is correct, I will do cold drain and fill next to see what happens.
I think what happens is when you let the car sit overnight, more of the fluid settles down in the oil pan. When you change it hot, a lot of the fluid clings to the walls and gears and such.
I read comments by a Toyota transmission tech saying that the ATF level may not be perfect from the factory, so when I did my first ATF drain and fill I checked the level beforehand. Mine was right on the money, maybe 1/2 ounce over. I did mine hot, after driving from work, and I also got less than 2 quarts out.
I read comments by a Toyota transmission tech saying that the ATF level may not be perfect from the factory, so when I did my first ATF drain and fill I checked the level beforehand. Mine was right on the money, maybe 1/2 ounce over. I did mine hot, after driving from work, and I also got less than 2 quarts out.
08-18-21, 11:43 AM
#608
Moderator
I had always drained a little over 2 quarts from my RX. Then I got a used 2013 Sienna with the same transmission. It did not shift as well as the RX and you had to press much harder on the gas to move from a stop. Then I did a trans drain and fill and only got about 1.5 quarts. I filled with a bit more fluid each time over the course of 4 drain and fills and shift quality improved each time. After the 4th I had filled it with a little over 2 quarts, same as the RX and by then the Sienna shift quality had improved dramatically and it took off from a stop with just a tap on the gas, just like my RX. I could only conclude the Sienna was underfilled.
I got it used with 88,000 miles and none of the Toyota or CarFax service records showed any trans fluid changes, so who knows if it was original fill or not.
It is 20,000 miles later and a couple more drain and fills and it still shifts perfectly. I am trading it in this week for a 2016 Sienna Limited with 29,000 miles. I will immediately do a trans drain and fill!
That is the last year they used the 6 speed trans. in the Sienna. I have driven the 8 speed and hate it. It shifts terribly, too often, roughly and hunts for gears, especially on the 2017-2018 model Siennas, I presume the RXs of those years are similar.
I got it used with 88,000 miles and none of the Toyota or CarFax service records showed any trans fluid changes, so who knows if it was original fill or not.
It is 20,000 miles later and a couple more drain and fills and it still shifts perfectly. I am trading it in this week for a 2016 Sienna Limited with 29,000 miles. I will immediately do a trans drain and fill!
That is the last year they used the 6 speed trans. in the Sienna. I have driven the 8 speed and hate it. It shifts terribly, too often, roughly and hunts for gears, especially on the 2017-2018 model Siennas, I presume the RXs of those years are similar.
08-18-21, 12:42 PM
#609
The Aisin transmissions in these RX vehicles are indeed a definite weak spot. We have a pretty good engine with a very mediocre transmission. Lexus should have selected a better unit.
08-18-21, 04:24 PM
#610
Moderator
They won't because they own 90% of Aisin:
Aisin is a member of the Toyota Group of companies. Aisin was founded in 1965 and supplies engine, drivetrain, body and chassis, aftermarket, and other main automotive parts for various major OEMs.
If you want a history lesson
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aisin
Aisin is a member of the Toyota Group of companies. Aisin was founded in 1965 and supplies engine, drivetrain, body and chassis, aftermarket, and other main automotive parts for various major OEMs.
If you want a history lesson
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aisin
08-21-21, 01:31 PM
#611
Stripped the atf drain bolt with the 6mm hex. Any ideas on the easiest way to remove the bolt? I already bought a replacement bolt. Want to get some sound advise before venturing into an exercise of frustration.
08-21-21, 05:16 PM
#613
If he just stripped out the 6mm hex socket inside the drain plug, that drain plug probably did not rotate at all. If that is indeed the case, it would not have stripped the threads on either the drain plug or the pan.
The following users liked this post:
ellocovg (08-21-21)
08-21-21, 07:38 PM
#614
Okay so if you stripped it the questions are did you fully sink the socket before you stripped it, and is your socket now mangled as well? If you didn’t clean out the hex head hole you wouldn’t be able to fully seat your socket and it might be salvageable. 🤞🏼
Make sure your socket is still straight and a quality one, if it’s a cheapo and now twisted or rounded buy a new better quality socket that’s 3/8” or 1/2” drive, and 1 1/2 to 2” long minimal. Spray everything with WD40/PB Blaster. I like WD40 to clean the inside of the hole, but prefer PB around the plug. Grab a little screw driver or a pick and run it through the inside of the bolt scraping the rust. Keep spraying, scraping, and wiping it until it’s clean of most of the rust.
Take your new socket and gently but firmly tap it. Do not smash it with the hammer or you will damage the pan. Make sure to tap it gently going in straight until you feel it bottom out. Hopefully you didn’t tap it all the way in the first time and the the hex bolt is still able to get enough of a grip. The taps will also hopefully break loose the now saturated rust around the plug.
Attach a quality socket ratchet wrench with a pipe or a breaker bar. Remember Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty!!! You don’t want to do a slow gradual steady pull this is what strips the head out. You can tap it with a hammer or do quick small even jerks, kinda like what a impact wrench would do. Do not use a power tool at all this will never ever work on a stripped bolt especially if you don’t have a feel and are equipped with a quality too lo with multiple torque settings.
If this fails initiate plan B which would be to try biting it with vicegrips on the outside of the bolt and turning it after having saturated it repeatedly with PB Blaster.
The last resorts would be to try to tap notches into the side of the plug and then using those notches to spin the plug loose using the same big QUALITY flat head and a hammer. The very last thing to do would be to drill it out with a extractor or a unibit. I would hate to risk introducing metal shavings into the pan. If plan A and B fail maybe its time to take it to a pro. They would be more familiar with the process and can hopefully make short work of it as long as you don’t fully mangle it so it’s very important to gauge when to throw in the towel and invest in a mechanic but potentially save money in the long run.
Good Luck!!! 👍🏼
Make sure your socket is still straight and a quality one, if it’s a cheapo and now twisted or rounded buy a new better quality socket that’s 3/8” or 1/2” drive, and 1 1/2 to 2” long minimal. Spray everything with WD40/PB Blaster. I like WD40 to clean the inside of the hole, but prefer PB around the plug. Grab a little screw driver or a pick and run it through the inside of the bolt scraping the rust. Keep spraying, scraping, and wiping it until it’s clean of most of the rust.
Take your new socket and gently but firmly tap it. Do not smash it with the hammer or you will damage the pan. Make sure to tap it gently going in straight until you feel it bottom out. Hopefully you didn’t tap it all the way in the first time and the the hex bolt is still able to get enough of a grip. The taps will also hopefully break loose the now saturated rust around the plug.
Attach a quality socket ratchet wrench with a pipe or a breaker bar. Remember Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty!!! You don’t want to do a slow gradual steady pull this is what strips the head out. You can tap it with a hammer or do quick small even jerks, kinda like what a impact wrench would do. Do not use a power tool at all this will never ever work on a stripped bolt especially if you don’t have a feel and are equipped with a quality too lo with multiple torque settings.
If this fails initiate plan B which would be to try biting it with vicegrips on the outside of the bolt and turning it after having saturated it repeatedly with PB Blaster.
The last resorts would be to try to tap notches into the side of the plug and then using those notches to spin the plug loose using the same big QUALITY flat head and a hammer. The very last thing to do would be to drill it out with a extractor or a unibit. I would hate to risk introducing metal shavings into the pan. If plan A and B fail maybe its time to take it to a pro. They would be more familiar with the process and can hopefully make short work of it as long as you don’t fully mangle it so it’s very important to gauge when to throw in the towel and invest in a mechanic but potentially save money in the long run.
Good Luck!!! 👍🏼
Last edited by ellocovg; 08-22-21 at 11:55 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by ellocovg:
Clutchless (08-22-21),
RX in NC (08-22-21)