sssgood

yup, that's what i figured. This was my cousins car so i told them to go to another mechanic closer to them (they live in waterloo, Ontario, but came to Toronto to get this done). That mechanic found that the fluid was over filed by 3qrts! But the worse part is, when they jacked up the vehicle, they found the transmission oil everywhere





The mechanic couldn't find the source of the leak, and didn't have time as he was fully booked. But my cousin drove it for a few hrs yesterday, the message didn't come back and they didn't see any oil on the ground after parking over night. Was there a pressure relief or over flow valve on this transmission by any chance?

Clutchless

I suspect there will be no further leakage. That due to the massive overfill it spewed out some of the excess fluid which created that mess. I do not know for sure but suspect it has some kind of pressure relief or air pressure relief valve or tube.
I would clean off the oil and keep an eye on it for further leakage. Get a spray can of engine cleaner and follow the directions, that should remove all the leaked ATF.

RX in NC

^^ What he said.

rababich

My understanding is that all transmissions have a vent somewhere on top, otherwise the system would be closed, pressures could build up with heat and blow seals.
It is usually a little cap over a port, similar to a house roof vent cover.

Makakio

The MOST important concepts for this whole thread:

1) a proper repair manual specifies how to do this and > any shade-tree wrencher advice from working on his 1994 Accord, a Lexus service department's opinion, or a cousin's-bother-in-law's-best-friend's experience with his Gen1 RX300... Also, it must be done at *proper temps* because of the nature of the fluid.

2) "Lifetime" fluid does NOT mean YOUR lifetime, or YOUR period of ownership. Every car manufacturer is very careful to not even SUGGEST what "lifetime" means. And if your "lifetime" oil break down and cause a failed tranny at 75k miles, Lexus ain't paying for a new tranny. "LIFETIME" = end of powertrain warranty. Change the oil - or have a Toyota tech who has done this properly do it for you.

FWIW: my teenager's 2013 RX350 is new to us, has 55k miles and is going in next week to have all the drivetrain oils changed. It's an AWD model, so I expect transfer case and rear diff fluids along with the trans. Our 15 year old GX470 also has a sealed tranny with "lifetime" fluid and sees a trans service every 50k miles. We tow a little, not a lot. And guess what: the fluid comes out good - but definitely used - after 50k miles. We're just about at 200k miles and it shifts perfectly. IME, no fluids last forever and even though I suspect you may only get 70-75% fresh fluid into an RX when you service the trans (because of the fluid trapped in the TC), I'll take that over 100% old fluid every day of the week.

RadiantX45

Wondering what you all think about brands of fluid. ATF and motor oil have always been changed with Toyota name brand fluid.

From my research independent shops wont use that, they’ll use another brand. Is that ok? (and by research I mean I've reached out to three shops who all said they use different compatible brands and don't want me to bring my own)

intermec

I think the safest way to do transmission change is when cold, drain out the fluid from the plug, then put back the same amount of fluid from the fill hole.
Plan to do that in the next couple weeks (currently don't have a 24mm socket)

Clutchless

I have replaced Toyota WS with (currently using) Idemitsu TLS-LV ATF which is a full synthetic designed as an exact replacement for WS. https://www.idemitsulubricants.com/p...tf-type-tls-lv
You can get it at Amazon. I thnk the vehicle shifts as well as or better on it than with WS. They are a well known Japanese lubricant company.

I previously used MAG ONE Full synthetic low viscosity multi vehicle ATF which they claim works on many different vehicles. It is made by Warner Distribution, the largest private label lubricant company in the US. Their stuff is sold under private label names by Costco, Amazon, Wal-Mart etc etc. It is excellent. I only switched to Idemitsu because it is designed to replace WS and is not a multi vehicle. Mag One is also at Amzn. https://mag1.com/products/transmissi...mission-fluid/

Finally many folks use and think highly of Valvoine Maxlife synthetic multi vehicle ATF in the red bottle. It is available at most auto parts stores etc. https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/m...i-vehicle-atf/

All of these are less expensive than WS. Some have claimed that WS is not synthetic or not a full synthetic. Whatever, any of the above are suitable replacement fluids.

RX in NC

When I did the first series of ATF drain-and-fills two years ago on my wife's 2015 RX350 FWD at 65,000 miles, I stuck with Toyota WS ATF primarily to ensure better treatment from Lexus Corporate in the event of a transmission failure. I expect to do the next series of drain-and-fills at 120,000 miles if not sooner. I may go with the Idemitsu ATF mentioned above, or I may stick with Toyota WS ATF again. Now at 91,500 miles, I have plenty of time to decide.

Clutchless

Considering the compatibiliy of these fluids, and that they are very unlikely to do a used fluid analysis in the event of an unlikely transmission failure, use any fluid you like. They will never know and there is not likely to be any warranty by then anyway. In the case of Idemitsu they probably could not tell as it claims to be a direct WS replacement.

marksa

How difficult is the change? From what I understand I have to take the fender wheel well off to get to the fill hole. Kind of has be hesitant. I've got 110k miles

carguy75

The level of difficulty depends on how mechanically savvy you are. The procedure is very easy if you can follow directions to the letter. However, if you do not have the proper tools(scan tool, sockets, manual) and really know how to use them; then let a repair shop handle the transmission fluid change.

The transmission in the RX needs to be filled to a proper level at a proper operating temperature. Under-filling and over-filling this transmission can cause damage.

Clutchless

marksa - the basic cold drain and fill is not difficult, but as stated above, one needs some experience working on cars and doing oil changes. There are detailed instructions farther up in this very long thread. Along with photos. You just have to spend the time to roll through it and find them.

In short.
Jack up and support front of car. Use jack stands for safety. Remove driver side front wheel.
Remove the small flap in the wheel well that is toward the front. It has a 10mm bolt or 2 and I think a plastic retainer.
Behind it is the 24mm fill bolt. Always remove the fill bolt first as you do not want to drain it and find you cannot get the bolt loose!

Remove transmission outer drain bolt. This is a 6mm Allen screw.
Let fluid drain.
When it stops draining, put the Allen wrench inside the hole to remove the overflow tube. It is plastic and very fragile. Another quart to quart and a half will come out.
Try lowering the car to see if more fluid drains.

When it stops draining replace the plastic overflow tube. Do not tighten or you will break it. Just carefully turn it until it stops.
Then screw the outer drain bolt back on. It does not take much to tighten it. Use a new crush washer if you want.

You will have drain about 2 to 2.25 quarts of fluid. I recommend you get a bucket at Home Depot or Wal-Mart that has measurements on the side. They are in the paint department.
Get a long funnel and you may have to attach a piece of hose to it to make it longer. Pour 2 to 2.25 quarts of fluid back in the transmission. I think 2.25 is the sweet spot.

Then put everything back together.
I have done this over a dozen times on 4 different vehicles and it has always worked just fine. The vehicle always shifts better afterward.
Good luck.

Bolt torques etc

Inspection plug/drain crush washer pn: 90430-12008 or 90430-A0002

torque bolt 29 ft-lbs, 6mm allen, plastic tube 7 in-lbs., 6mm allen


Side fill plug crush washer pn: 90430-18008

torque bolt 36 ft-lbs, 24 mm


splash guard 2x10mm bolts

clips: 90467-07043

RX in NC

^^ Great instructions above. This is really an easy job if you have the tools and follow the instructions properly.

I made my own measuring container out of an empty gallon plastic milk jug. I kept pouring water into it and used a black magic marker to mark the outside of the jug at exactly 2 quarts, 2.25 quarts, and 2.5 quarts. I then performed three successive cold drain-and-fills over several mornings (my wife had driven 30 to 40 miles each of the previous days so the ATF in the system had been sufficiently agitated each time). Each of the three cold drains resulted in exactly 2.25 quarts of old ATF in my milk jug, so each of the three refills consisted of pouring exactly 2.25 quarts of fresh ATF into the fill hole. This was done two years ago at 65,000 miles, the vehicle now has 91,500 miles, and my wife says her transmission continues to shift perfectly for her. I will repeat the three-successive drain-and-fill procedures at 115,000 to 120,000 miles assuming we keep her vehicle that long.

MJK67

I bought a 2010 last year. It currently has 165k on it.
I had it in to my mechanic last week, and had all the drivetrain fluids exchanged. The carfax indicated it had been done at 15k and 30k, but no documentation after that. Could have been done by a small shop, but figured it was cheap insurance.

Next step, will be doing plugs and coils this fall.