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I've got codes C1441 (brake booster) and C1407 (right rear speed sensor). Looked over what I could on the car but no luck. I get the Check AWD message and anti-skid lights. No engine light. Garage was great as they only charged up $21 for a diagnostic. After reading up on all I can and not finding anything, we're gonna bring it to the Dealer. For us it's 240 miles away. Ya there is one about 100 miles away, but family is out in Charlotte, so we'll do it.
I did find a mouse nest on top of the manifold but didn't look lived in.........you know, but unlike the ones that are in you A/C fan and you grind up a few little ones and have the most horrid smell in a few hours, or the stench of pee Who knows, depending on the cost of repair, we might trade it in. We really like the Lexus's we've owned, but in a couple years we want to retire and can't take the $$ hits this car can have. And I do realize that even a Corolla could hit the wallet to. As some of you my age, it's getting to where you can't change out brakes without a computer. I miss our 2000 Camrys. 325k and 365k with no major issues short of rust was getting the best of them. We bought them both new. I know my old one is still running.
Last edited by EA6BMECH; 11-22-19 at 04:47 AM.
Reason: I can't spell
So here's my update. Went to Lexus yesterday (240 miles each way ). They did another diagnostic ($145) to make sure the $21 diagnostic was the same, they were. I need a speed sensor on the right side rear. Now we all know we can get them for $60 at Advance Auto or where ever, I can get the OEM for $212, but at Lexus........$300. What a baaaaagin!!! So for $500+ I'm gonna get a sensor that is one bolt and a plug in, Plus another round trip to Charlotte. Yes we could have.......but the wif wanted them to look at it. We got a 2019 ES350 to take home. I like Lexus, but the bells and whistles are out of sight!! I'm driving an '09 Ridgeline with no bells and whistles and it is sooooooooooo nice!!!! I just am not impressed with these new cars and you don't have any say on how they're built.
What model year is your RX? If it is beyond the warranty period and you cannot DIY your own repairs, surely you can find a much closer, well-respected Toyota/Lexus indie shop. No way would I ever consider driving 240 miles to a dealership for an out-of-warranty issue. As you learned, they will empty your wallet in a heartbeat.
Well, it looks like they merged my post into this post or something. I am having some kind of electrical problem. Sometimes all the warning lights and messages go on (AWD, brake, power steering malfunction) and I cannot turn the wheel or take the car out of gear on startup. Other times, it is fine. Other times, just the AWD light comes on with the climate control malfunction message. The dealer told me to replace the alternator, which I did. Did not stop the problem. Taking it to a different dealer next week. Cannot wait to hear what they say and how much more money I am going to need to spend.
Check awd and engine lights, codes p0012 c1441 c1201
So my wife was on her way to work this morning and the check awd system, check engine, and traction control lights came on. She didn’t notice any rpm or acceleration differences like I’ve read some people having, she had a friend get the codes checked at O’reilleys and p0012 camshaft x4, c1441 brake booster, and c1201 ens control system ABS is what they wrote down. A little over 120k, it’s new to us. We’ve had a snow storm here last couple days could this just be ice on one of the abs sensors? Any ideas that I could try to get to clear before taking to dealer would be appreciated
It may just be that your battery is getting weak and about to fail in the cold weather. Low voltage can make all those lights trigger. Have an auto parts store (most chain stores do this, O'Reillys maybe too) test your battery. Or just get a new battery and hope all the lights clear in a day or 2 of driving.
I called a Lexus service center and he thought the same thing, oreilly cleared the codes when they checked them and she said the lights haven’t come back on but I’m gonna take it to work with me and have the shop check the battery, hopefully it’s as simple as that👍🏻
Considering that the thermometer shows 9 degrees on your instrument panel photo, that makes it even more likely it is your battery. The cold will kill a weak, aging battery.
I recently had a weak battery. If I left the lights on for only 5-10 min, it would run down to the point of triggering "Check AWD system" and a lot of other errors Our outdoor temps have dropped to freezing range in the past few weeks. I replaced the battery a week and a half ago and no issues have come back.
FYI, I bought a Napa battery and they told me at the parts counter that I had to a scan tool reset if I changed the battery. From my searching of the InterWebs, it seems that this is due to the charging system using an algorithm to determine how to charge an older battery vs a newer one (not verified, just a hypothesis). I have the Toyota shop manual and it does not say anything about using a scan tool to reset anything when changing the battery. I believe this is true for a BMW. Just another reason why I bought a Lexus instead.
The manual says there is a reset procedure for the power hatch if you leave it open when the battery is disconnected, and that you will lose presets (no scan tool needed for this). I put a trickle charger on my battery leads as I swapped out the battery, to preserve my presets, and left the hatch closed.
When I changed out my battery a couple of years ago I did none of that and did not lose any radio presets or seat settings. I just disconnected and pulled out the old battery and in less than a minute had the new one back in and connected.
I suspect if the battery voltage falls below a certain threshold or the time of no power is long, one can lose certain settings. I too prepare everything and do the swap in short time. Have not had the need on my 3rd gen to disconnect the battery.