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Great job! This is going to be my next mod as I think it was huge miss on Lexus' part.
Q: At night time, how soft are these lights? They can be a distraction ... human eye keeps looking for lit-up stuff [peripheral vision when looking ahead] (unfortunately this is very subjective and I hope to get a unbiased answer)
The last picture was taken in my garage, it was dark inside the car when I took the picture ... will have to take another picture in more realistic setting later ....
Q: Did you tie the +12v to dimable instrument cluster supply? If yes what pin connector would that be (sorry I dont have the wiring diagram)?
Nah, I was lazy and wanted to tap into the available +12v ignition power from the overhead console main connector. So, the LEDs will be on during driving, day or night. I will have to see if that will become a distraction problem for me ...time will tell
But to answer your question, none of the overhead console lights dim when using the light dimmer button on the dash so I'm sure there is no dimming circuit on the overhead console connector. +12v ignition power is there so that would do ... for now ... If I don't like it after a few weeks, then I could add a light sensor to automatically turn on the backlit LEDs when it's dark outside ... PS: I'm out of photo transistor at the moment
Q: Which bulb would you recommend that blends with the existing lights?
This is a personal preference ... I tested green, blue, red, amber, white LEDs to see which would light better at night .. and I chose amber ...
Q: Can you please give us a night shot of the panel? I am interested to see if at night we simply see light sources or one can make out the pictograph on the button. I was thinking of single bulb from the center console shining light above on the full panel [unfortunately this setup would require spot lighting and many many other issues. So I like your solution but want to delve into it with as many knowns as possible].
I will try to take night shot later .... I had the same thought as yours, i.e. spot lighting but I couldn't find any small (unobtrusive) and nice looking spot LED for my purpose so I settled for backlit LEDs for a more OE look ...
Q: What hook up wires did you use? Hard to tell by the picture, but hopefully you used multi stranded instead of single core. since multi stranded have a flex, they work better in switch which moves.
I used 24-gauge CAT5 wires, and it's not that stiff ... I first drilled all the holes on the buttons then filled the holes with clear silicon gel to act as lens. The LED sits about 1/4" above the filled hole (lens). For most buttons, the LEDs were mounted on the frame surrounding the movable buttons, so pushing the buttons will not move the LEDs ... this is by design ...
I put a dab of clear adhesive silicon near the base of the LEDs and set them into the drilled holes then used duct tape to hold the wiring in place as shown in the picture ...
Q: Any thoughts about going to 10 or 11 bulbs and hook then in series? The down side it if one goes nothing lights up.
Nope ... due to the exact reason you mentioned
Q: With the LEDs sticking through, the push force by finger will most likely go on the bulb. Are you glueing them in the hole?
Not applicable ...already answered above
Finally, Please do not think of my questions as dislike, they are simply there to help me address the obstacles I foresee and I really appreciate and thank you for leading the charge.
Salim
Not at all ... when I first saw this thread, I was slightly discouraged that no one here did it before ... the job doesn't seem that difficult, just taking a bit of time ... so if you have the time, patience ... you could do it
Ok, I drove during daytime today and the backlighting from the overhead console didn't distract at all. It could actually provide highlighting during cloudy days, driving in tunnel, etc.
Then inside my garage with all lights turned off to simulate night time, I took a picture and video @ ISO 400 & shutter=1/125 sec to show actual brigthness your eyes would view in darkness and the backlighting is just a soft glow, very pleasant to the eyes. The downside is you cannot view the button captions, but you should already memorize layout of buttons and backlighting would help you push the right button in darkness. I'll try to attach a video clip if the forum allows it ....
Actual brightness of LED backlighting, picture taken @ ISO 400, s=1/125 sec
Video shot @ ISO 400, s=1/125 sec to show the same brightness that the eyes see
I have searched but have not found information on this -- Are the Homelink buttons in the top console supposed to be backlit? I bought the car in March of 2019, so I never saw it new -- it seems to me that it would be easier to find the buttons as you approach your garage at night if they were backlit. Also, the dealership noted that I need a right front "peak" (in some places on the service write up and on my on-line Lexus owner's information it is spelled "peek") light replaced -- but I haven't been able to find what a peak or peek light is and it appears that all of my exterior lights are lit when I go to check them. I'll ask what a peak light is next time I go back to Lexus - just wondered if someone here knows (or if it is the bulb that lights the homelink buttons :-))
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I am seeing sun glass holder type console being offered on eBay by salvagers. Mine is on order. I plan to toss out the defunct SOS enform function. Hoping that it does not pop up an error in the display.
No error/warning in the display, but announcement of malfunction every time I start the RX. I will have to bring it back in circuit and tuck the circuit somewhere.
At least now I have a place to put my sun-glasses and if they are precious to you, it might be the right retrofit.
I ended up gluing the SOS circuit board in the shell opening and reenforced it with black tape. IN theory I can push the SOS button, but we know, no one will respond.
If anyone is interested, the only things that I transferred form the donor overhead console were the sunglass swing door, spring, damper gear, latch/unlatch mechanism. Items discarded were the mounting plate, SOS switch.
Next conversion in plan is switching out the rear view mirror with the newer RX rearview with newer version of home link and lighted buttons. Parts on order.
Moving on to Homelink under the rear view mirror option. I need unswtiched 12v to the home link. Best place to grab that would be the connector in the overhead console.
Any one has that information please post. @tn7con?
My fall back alternative will be to use the 12v switched that already comes to the rearview mirror. Some folks prefer the switched going to the HomeLink it adds to the level of security if the vehicle is parked outside.
Donor for the rear view is 2013-2015 Rear view mirror H5PIR. [Not plug and play ... modification required]. Bonus is that the newer homeLink in the rear view mirror is of newer version and newer garage door openers do not need the "repeater". The newer mirror requires a 10pin connector and the old one is a 5 pin connector. I pulled out the pins from the old female connector [vehicle side] and pushed them in the same location of the 5 pin connector [middle pin remains blank]. A new wire [constant 12v] needs to be added in the next row adjacent to the corner black (switched 12v - on in run position). I tapped the large connector in the overhead console ... Gray .. corner pin on the side which has a castle plastic edge. I found this wire by tracing it to the installed homeLink sending unit inside the console. I also disconnected the homelink in the console. Note: People talk about the red wire on the opposite corner, but I stuck to the one that feeds the installed homelink sending unit. I was lucky as the eBay seller cut the wires and sent me the female connector [typical of dismantlers as they don't want to mess with connectors]. Now I have lighted homeLink buttons.
As stated before I did the overhead console change. Donor 2010 RX350 .. Please make sure that the donated console has the sun-glass pocket and does not have SOS button.
See details in the post above.
06-04-17, 10:25 AM
