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2010 RX350 DIY Brakes vs Lexus Dealer
#212
Moderator
It might need new rotor or a simple burn off of residue of hot pad imprint. You find an empty lot and do some hard braking to heat up the rotors [dont keep the pedal pressed once you stop ... that is the cause of imprint].
A micro gauge is needed to see if the rotors are indeed bad.
Salim
The following users liked this post:
Clutchless (05-05-24)
#213
Moderator
What I have is similar to this one at Amazon
8MILELAKE Disc Brake Caliper Compressor Wind Back Tool 24pc Professional Caliper Tool Set $23.99
8MILELAKE Disc Brake Caliper Compressor Wind Back Tool 24pc Professional Caliper Tool Set $23.99
#214
Advanced
I use this tool to evenly push back my brake pistons. Works very well on dual and four piston calipers to push back all the pistons at the same time. I just open the brake reservoir cap and push back the pistons and let the fluid go back into the reservoir. I only open the bleeders if I am changing the fluid or bleeding out air.
This is a four piston caliper on my old Genesis sedan.
This is a four piston caliper on my old Genesis sedan.
Last edited by carguy75; 05-05-24 at 09:43 PM.
#215
Pole Position
Hello everyone,
I need some of your expert advice. I have a 2011 RX350 and I'm thinking of replacing my front rotors and pads.
First, what is the best rotor and pads to purchase? Second, what tool does everyone use to retract the piston?
I've seen different tools for single/dual piston's. Third, does everyone allow the brake fluid to be pushed back
into the master cylinder or do you let it drain out the bleeder valve?
Thank you,
David
I need some of your expert advice. I have a 2011 RX350 and I'm thinking of replacing my front rotors and pads.
First, what is the best rotor and pads to purchase? Second, what tool does everyone use to retract the piston?
I've seen different tools for single/dual piston's. Third, does everyone allow the brake fluid to be pushed back
into the master cylinder or do you let it drain out the bleeder valve?
Thank you,
David
#216
Moderator
How is the stopping performance of the Hawk performance ceramic pads compared to what you had before? What did you have before?
I put Hawk LTS pads on the front of my Sienna (same brakes but I think it weighs more) and they greatly improved brake grab, stopping distance and pedal feel over the replaced Toyota pads and the Raybestos EHT pads on the RX.
I put Hawk LTS pads on the front of my Sienna (same brakes but I think it weighs more) and they greatly improved brake grab, stopping distance and pedal feel over the replaced Toyota pads and the Raybestos EHT pads on the RX.
#217
Intermediate
How is the stopping performance of the Hawk performance ceramic pads compared to what you had before? What did you have before?
I put Hawk LTS pads on the front of my Sienna (same brakes but I think it weighs more) and they greatly improved brake grab, stopping distance and pedal feel over the replaced Toyota pads and the Raybestos EHT pads on the RX.
I put Hawk LTS pads on the front of my Sienna (same brakes but I think it weighs more) and they greatly improved brake grab, stopping distance and pedal feel over the replaced Toyota pads and the Raybestos EHT pads on the RX.
They also lasted a very very long time. (Partially because they eat the rotors).
#218
Moderator
I had the HPS too, on a modified 1994 Mazda MX6 and they stopped the car so fast, once warmed up, that you could get dislocate a retina. They lasted until I sold it.
#219
Intermediate
That sounds awesome!
Also I can say the Brembo P83152N pads are a DON'T BUY. I found them to wear out super fast and didn't even get 40,000 km out of them.I mentioned it in this thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...l#post11390548
Also I can say the Brembo P83152N pads are a DON'T BUY. I found them to wear out super fast and didn't even get 40,000 km out of them.I mentioned it in this thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...l#post11390548
#220
I use this tool to evenly push back my brake pistons. Works very well on dual and four piston calipers to push back all the pistons at the same time. I just open the brake reservoir cap and push back the pistons and let the fluid go back into the reservoir. I only open the bleeders if I am changing the fluid or bleeding out air. This is a four piston caliper on my old Genesis sedan.
Although there are different opinions on this, I am alway hesitant to push back the used brake fluid into the master cylinder / fluid reservoir. I confirmed this opinion when I did a brake job on my 2011 Ford F350 dually, which has been used for heavy towing (17,000 lb trailer) and as a result had also seen some substantial braking. The brake fluid in the reservoir was very clean with perhaps just a very slight yellowing in color from originally being clear. When I retracted my calipers, I bled the brake fluid using the bleed screw at the calipers and found the fluid to be in very bad shape with darks discoloration and what looked like very fine rust particles. I am certainly glad that I did not try to push this contaminated fluid back through the system ... there is no telling how much damage it could have caused.
I have subsequently seen a similar result (but not as severe) doing a brake job on our previously owned 2008 Lexus RX350 ... totally clear fluid at the reservoir and slightly discolored brake fluid at the brake calipers. Again, I was glad to not push contaminated brake fluid backwards in the system.
I had a quick search on the net and came up with the following suggestion (best practice?):
"Any water or debris that is in your brake system will settle at the lowest point, given enough time.. That low point is the caliper.. The bleeder should be opened so that contaminated fluid is removed from the system, and not forced back through the ABS unit and into the master cylinder."
There is some interesting discussion and varied opinions regarding this at:
https://www.quora.com/After-you-inst...ter%20cylinder..
In that same link there was a post from a 30 year mechanic that is worth reading that I will post below,
Last edited by ThreeCW; 05-30-24 at 12:37 PM.
#221
Further to my post yesterday, I viewed a highly rated YouTube video on "How to perform a professional brake job".
There is lots of good information shared in this video that anyone from a backyard mechanics to a certified mechanic can benefit from.
Here is a link to the start of the video:
.
And here is a link to 19:10 min:sec of the video where the professional mechanic discusses "Bleeding the caliper":
.
There is lots of good information shared in this video that anyone from a backyard mechanics to a certified mechanic can benefit from.
Here is a link to the start of the video:
And here is a link to 19:10 min:sec of the video where the professional mechanic discusses "Bleeding the caliper":
.
Last edited by ThreeCW; 05-31-24 at 01:16 PM.
#222
Advanced
That looks like a very nice tool. Very professional looking.
Although there are different opinions on this, I am alway hesitant to push back the used brake fluid into the master cylinder / fluid reservoir. I confirmed this opinion when I did a brake job on my 2011 Ford F350 dually, which has been used for heavy towing (17,000 lb trailer) and as a result had also seen some substantial braking. The brake fluid in the reservoir was very clean with perhaps just a very slight yellowing in color from originally being clear. When I retracted my calipers, I bled the brake fluid using the bleed screw at the calipers and found the fluid to be in very bad shape with darks discoloration and what looked like very fine rust particles. I am certainly glad that I did not try to push this contaminated fluid back through the system ... there is no telling how much damage it could have caused.
I have subsequently seen a similar result (but not as severe) doing a brake job on our previously owned 2008 Lexus RX350 ... totally clear fluid at the reservoir and slightly discolored brake fluid at the brake calipers. Again, I was glad to not push contaminated brake fluid backwards in the system.
I had a quick search on the net and came up with the following suggestion (best practice?):
"Any water or debris that is in your brake system will settle at the lowest point, given enough time.. That low point is the caliper.. The bleeder should be opened so that contaminated fluid is removed from the system, and not forced back through the ABS unit and into the master cylinder."
There is some interesting discussion and varied opinions regarding this at:
https://www.quora.com/After-you-inst...ter%20cylinder..
In that same link there was a post from a 30 year mechanic that is worth reading that I will post below,
Although there are different opinions on this, I am alway hesitant to push back the used brake fluid into the master cylinder / fluid reservoir. I confirmed this opinion when I did a brake job on my 2011 Ford F350 dually, which has been used for heavy towing (17,000 lb trailer) and as a result had also seen some substantial braking. The brake fluid in the reservoir was very clean with perhaps just a very slight yellowing in color from originally being clear. When I retracted my calipers, I bled the brake fluid using the bleed screw at the calipers and found the fluid to be in very bad shape with darks discoloration and what looked like very fine rust particles. I am certainly glad that I did not try to push this contaminated fluid back through the system ... there is no telling how much damage it could have caused.
I have subsequently seen a similar result (but not as severe) doing a brake job on our previously owned 2008 Lexus RX350 ... totally clear fluid at the reservoir and slightly discolored brake fluid at the brake calipers. Again, I was glad to not push contaminated brake fluid backwards in the system.
I had a quick search on the net and came up with the following suggestion (best practice?):
"Any water or debris that is in your brake system will settle at the lowest point, given enough time.. That low point is the caliper.. The bleeder should be opened so that contaminated fluid is removed from the system, and not forced back through the ABS unit and into the master cylinder."
There is some interesting discussion and varied opinions regarding this at:
https://www.quora.com/After-you-inst...ter%20cylinder..
In that same link there was a post from a 30 year mechanic that is worth reading that I will post below,
The brake piston tool is the best. It works with any type of caliper I used it on for years now. No issue with any pistons being unequally pushed in. Best $20 spent on a brake tool. However, the same thing can be done with a c-clamp and old brake pad .
Last edited by carguy75; 05-31-24 at 09:44 PM.
#223
carguy75,
I agree that keeping your fluids fresh and clean in your entire braking system can certainly help to prevent you from having this problem.
What the video points out is what used to be standard operating practice with older braking systems no longer applies to today's modern braking systems.
As the mechanic points out in the video, why risk plugging a $2500 anti-lock braking system when you can prevent it by simply bleeding the fluid from the caliper.
He also points out that the problem that he has had with this is on Toyotas ... perhaps the Toyotas are more prone to this ... or not
The brake tool is certainly a good idea ... but not sure if I am ready to retire my C clamp yet
I agree that keeping your fluids fresh and clean in your entire braking system can certainly help to prevent you from having this problem.
What the video points out is what used to be standard operating practice with older braking systems no longer applies to today's modern braking systems.
As the mechanic points out in the video, why risk plugging a $2500 anti-lock braking system when you can prevent it by simply bleeding the fluid from the caliper.
He also points out that the problem that he has had with this is on Toyotas ... perhaps the Toyotas are more prone to this ... or not
The brake tool is certainly a good idea ... but not sure if I am ready to retire my C clamp yet
#224
Advanced
carguy75,
I agree that keeping your fluids fresh and clean in your entire braking system can certainly help to prevent you from having this problem.
What the video points out is what used to be standard operating practice with older braking systems no longer applies to today's modern braking systems.
As the mechanic points out in the video, why risk plugging a $2500 anti-lock braking system when you can prevent it by simply bleeding the fluid from the caliper.
He also points out that the problem that he has had with this is on Toyotas ... perhaps the Toyotas are more prone to this ... or not
The brake tool is certainly a good idea ... but not sure if I am ready to retire my C clamp yet
I agree that keeping your fluids fresh and clean in your entire braking system can certainly help to prevent you from having this problem.
What the video points out is what used to be standard operating practice with older braking systems no longer applies to today's modern braking systems.
As the mechanic points out in the video, why risk plugging a $2500 anti-lock braking system when you can prevent it by simply bleeding the fluid from the caliper.
He also points out that the problem that he has had with this is on Toyotas ... perhaps the Toyotas are more prone to this ... or not
The brake tool is certainly a good idea ... but not sure if I am ready to retire my C clamp yet
The tip in the video is basically best for repair shops or owners who perform brake service on cars with neglected(or unknown service history of) brake fluid that has not being changed and will not be changed during that brake service. Heck, that may be most cars on the road to be honest as many owners do not change the brake fluid ever until the braking system has a problem.
Last edited by carguy75; 07-27-24 at 09:18 PM.
#225
Pole Position
How is the stopping performance of the Hawk performance ceramic pads compared to what you had before? What did you have before?
I put Hawk LTS pads on the front of my Sienna (same brakes but I think it weighs more) and they greatly improved brake grab, stopping distance and pedal feel over the replaced Toyota pads and the Raybestos EHT pads on the RX.
I put Hawk LTS pads on the front of my Sienna (same brakes but I think it weighs more) and they greatly improved brake grab, stopping distance and pedal feel over the replaced Toyota pads and the Raybestos EHT pads on the RX.