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Thank you for your advice,
I purchased this 2011 RX350 (used) on September 19, 2023 from a Lexus dealer in Dayton, Ohio and from the 1st day I noticed
my brakes are pulsating.
David
It might need new rotor or a simple burn off of residue of hot pad imprint. You find an empty lot and do some hard braking to heat up the rotors [dont keep the pedal pressed once you stop ... that is the cause of imprint].
A micro gauge is needed to see if the rotors are indeed bad.
I use this tool to evenly push back my brake pistons. Works very well on dual and four piston calipers to push back all the pistons at the same time. I just open the brake reservoir cap and push back the pistons and let the fluid go back into the reservoir. I only open the bleeders if I am changing the fluid or bleeding out air.
This is a four piston caliper on my old Genesis sedan.
I need some of your expert advice. I have a 2011 RX350 and I'm thinking of replacing my front rotors and pads.
First, what is the best rotor and pads to purchase? Second, what tool does everyone use to retract the piston?
I've seen different tools for single/dual piston's. Third, does everyone allow the brake fluid to be pushed back
into the master cylinder or do you let it drain out the bleeder valve?
Thank you,
David
I went w/ Hawk Talon rotors w/ Hawk performance ceramic pads (yellow box) I use a C-clamp w/ the old pad. I also flush the old brake fluid w/ new dot 3. I also swapped ouut the oem brake hoses for Goodridge SS hoses......http://tirerack.com
How is the stopping performance of the Hawk performance ceramic pads compared to what you had before? What did you have before?
I put Hawk LTS pads on the front of my Sienna (same brakes but I think it weighs more) and they greatly improved brake grab, stopping distance and pedal feel over the replaced Toyota pads and the Raybestos EHT pads on the RX.
How is the stopping performance of the Hawk performance ceramic pads compared to what you had before? What did you have before?
I put Hawk LTS pads on the front of my Sienna (same brakes but I think it weighs more) and they greatly improved brake grab, stopping distance and pedal feel over the replaced Toyota pads and the Raybestos EHT pads on the RX.
My experience with Hawk was their HPS on a Nissan Z and they were a great improvement, overall. They take an extra 0.25sec to grab in wet conditions but superior overall, for sure.
They also lasted a very very long time. (Partially because they eat the rotors).
I had the HPS too, on a modified 1994 Mazda MX6 and they stopped the car so fast, once warmed up, that you could get dislocate a retina. They lasted until I sold it.
That sounds awesome!
Also I can say the Brembo P83152N pads are a DON'T BUY. I found them to wear out super fast and didn't even get 40,000 km out of them.I mentioned it in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...l#post11390548
I use this tool to evenly push back my brake pistons. Works very well on dual and four piston calipers to push back all the pistons at the same time. I just open the brake reservoir cap and push back the pistons and let the fluid go back into the reservoir. I only open the bleeders if I am changing the fluid or bleeding out air. This is a four piston caliper on my old Genesis sedan.
That looks like a very nice tool. Very professional looking.
Although there are different opinions on this, I am alway hesitant to push back the used brake fluid into the master cylinder / fluid reservoir. I confirmed this opinion when I did a brake job on my 2011 Ford F350 dually, which has been used for heavy towing (17,000 lb trailer) and as a result had also seen some substantial braking. The brake fluid in the reservoir was very clean with perhaps just a very slight yellowing in color from originally being clear. When I retracted my calipers, I bled the brake fluid using the bleed screw at the calipers and found the fluid to be in very bad shape with darks discoloration and what looked like very fine rust particles. I am certainly glad that I did not try to push this contaminated fluid back through the system ... there is no telling how much damage it could have caused.
I have subsequently seen a similar result (but not as severe) doing a brake job on our previously owned 2008 Lexus RX350 ... totally clear fluid at the reservoir and slightly discolored brake fluid at the brake calipers. Again, I was glad to not push contaminated brake fluid backwards in the system.
I had a quick search on the net and came up with the following suggestion (best practice?): "Any water or debris that is in your brake system will settle at the lowest point, given enough time.. That low point is the caliper.. The bleeder should be opened so that contaminated fluid is removed from the system, and not forced back through the ABS unit and into the master cylinder."
Further to my post yesterday, I viewed a highly rated YouTube video on "How to perform a professional brake job".
There is lots of good information shared in this video that anyone from a backyard mechanics to a certified mechanic can benefit from.
That looks like a very nice tool. Very professional looking.
Although there are different opinions on this, I am alway hesitant to push back the used brake fluid into the master cylinder / fluid reservoir. I confirmed this opinion when I did a brake job on my 2011 Ford F350 dually, which has been used for heavy towing (17,000 lb trailer) and as a result had also seen some substantial braking. The brake fluid in the reservoir was very clean with perhaps just a very slight yellowing in color from originally being clear. When I retracted my calipers, I bled the brake fluid using the bleed screw at the calipers and found the fluid to be in very bad shape with darks discoloration and what looked like very fine rust particles. I am certainly glad that I did not try to push this contaminated fluid back through the system ... there is no telling how much damage it could have caused.
I have subsequently seen a similar result (but not as severe) doing a brake job on our previously owned 2008 Lexus RX350 ... totally clear fluid at the reservoir and slightly discolored brake fluid at the brake calipers. Again, I was glad to not push contaminated brake fluid backwards in the system.
I had a quick search on the net and came up with the following suggestion (best practice?): "Any water or debris that is in your brake system will settle at the lowest point, given enough time.. That low point is the caliper.. The bleeder should be opened so that contaminated fluid is removed from the system, and not forced back through the ABS unit and into the master cylinder."
In that same link there was a post from a 30 year mechanic that is worth reading that I will post below,
The topic of pushing the old fluid back into the system has been argued in every forum I have been part of for many many years. I have never had an issue with an car from any auto maker by just pushing back the pistons for a pad change. Unless you perform some reverse brake flush; the old brake fluid in the calipers most likely will not travel that far into the braking system to cause problems even if the calipers have rust debris. The brake fluid is in the system is old anyway most likely. However, if it makes you more comfortable then do not push back the brake piston unless you open the bleeder screw. Generally, I flush my old brake fluid anyway every couple years(or during a pad/rotor change); so my fluid is generally clean anyway.
The brake piston tool is the best. It works with any type of caliper I used it on for years now. No issue with any pistons being unequally pushed in. Best $20 spent on a brake tool. However, the same thing can be done with a c-clamp and old brake pad .
carguy75,
I agree that keeping your fluids fresh and clean in your entire braking system can certainly help to prevent you from having this problem.
What the video points out is what used to be standard operating practice with older braking systems no longer applies to today's modern braking systems.
As the mechanic points out in the video, why risk plugging a $2500 anti-lock braking system when you can prevent it by simply bleeding the fluid from the caliper.
He also points out that the problem that he has had with this is on Toyotas ... perhaps the Toyotas are more prone to this ... or not
The brake tool is certainly a good idea ... but not sure if I am ready to retire my C clamp yet
carguy75,
I agree that keeping your fluids fresh and clean in your entire braking system can certainly help to prevent you from having this problem.
What the video points out is what used to be standard operating practice with older braking systems no longer applies to today's modern braking systems.
As the mechanic points out in the video, why risk plugging a $2500 anti-lock braking system when you can prevent it by simply bleeding the fluid from the caliper.
He also points out that the problem that he has had with this is on Toyotas ... perhaps the Toyotas are more prone to this ... or not
The brake tool is certainly a good idea ... but not sure if I am ready to retire my C clamp yet
Well, to be honest if the brake system has an unknown service history with very very old brake fluid then it would be best to just open the bleeder instead of pushing the old worn brake fluid back into the system. However, a mechanic(or owner) should just perform a proper brake fluid flush if the brake fluid is that old anyway; not just replace the pads/rotors.
The tip in the video is basically best for repair shops or owners who perform brake service on cars with neglected(or unknown service history of) brake fluid that has not being changed and will not be changed during that brake service. Heck, that may be most cars on the road to be honest as many owners do not change the brake fluid ever until the braking system has a problem.
How is the stopping performance of the Hawk performance ceramic pads compared to what you had before? What did you have before?
I put Hawk LTS pads on the front of my Sienna (same brakes but I think it weighs more) and they greatly improved brake grab, stopping distance and pedal feel over the replaced Toyota pads and the Raybestos EHT pads on the RX.
Sorry I didn't get backto you.....The Hawk Talon rotors & Hawk perforamce ceramic pads (yellow box) is the best brake set up, thats been on this rx. Went w/ the oreillys rotors w/ their C 1324 pads, three months warrantied them for a pr of Bosch rotors & they had a set of Wagner oex pads, lasted longer (bad mistake going w/ oex pads, should of used Bosch pads) warrantied those out & went w/ the Hawk set up.So much better, that I replaced the rear rotors/pads as well. Any time you replace the brakes, They need to be bedded in= 6-8 50-20 hard slow downs then keep cruising for awhile to cool the brakes & I did it for a 2nd time. Flush out the old dot3 for new dot3 & Goodridge SS brake hoses also help or at least replacing the oem hoses for new oem ones. Less spendy then going w/ +'14 GS350 rotors, GR Corolla calipers & adapters. Yea the GS rotors are thicker, but the GR pads are 'bout 1/3 smaller, but the use 4 piston calipers vs twin piston floating calipers, but then look at Jaguar or GTI/Golf R single piston floating calipers. Yrs ago, I saw Stoptech offered a bbk 330mm two piece rotors w/ 4 piston calipers for irrc it was $2500. But then this vehicle to me call for a aftermarket BBK, as other vehicles I've had, included the last car I had (sold in '20). Now driving my wifes rx....
12-16-14, 11:44 AM
