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2010 RX350 DIY Brakes vs Lexus Dealer
#61
#63
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I thought that was due at 60K. At least that's what they recommend for our 2007.
I'd do it whenever they say to do it. It's pretty cheap. Think I paid about $100 at Lexus. Toyota dealer wanted even more. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it grabs moisture over time. This reduces it's boiling point and causes brake lines to rust inside out.
I'd do it whenever they say to do it. It's pretty cheap. Think I paid about $100 at Lexus. Toyota dealer wanted even more. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it grabs moisture over time. This reduces it's boiling point and causes brake lines to rust inside out.
#64
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It is time based as brake fluid absorbs water which can then speed up damage to expensive brake components such as the electronic brake force distributor which costs thousands of dollars and usually fails after the warranty is over. Get your brake fluid flushed or as it is also called changed, every 2 or 3 years. That is what Toyota says to do now. It is good preventive maintenance and the cost is around what was listed above.
#65
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I thought that was due at 60K. At least that's what they recommend for our 2007.
I'd do it whenever they say to do it. It's pretty cheap. Think I paid about $100 at Lexus. Toyota dealer wanted even more. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it grabs moisture over time. This reduces it's boiling point and causes brake lines to rust inside out.
I'd do it whenever they say to do it. It's pretty cheap. Think I paid about $100 at Lexus. Toyota dealer wanted even more. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it grabs moisture over time. This reduces it's boiling point and causes brake lines to rust inside out.
Lexus appears on their maintenance schedule a full brake fluid replacement every 30k on my 2010 RX. Even with Toyota branded brake fluid which is DOT3 rated, should be changed out every 2 years. FWIW, Toyota DOT3 contains Borate Esthers which is not found in any off the shelf DOT3 brake fluids. But in DOT3 and DOT4 blends like Valvoline offers and strictly labeled DOT4 brake fluids. The DOT 3/4 blends have a higher dry and wet boiling point characteristics than standard DOT3. Given the typical style of driving in these RXs, it may or may not be worth it to use a pure DOT4 brake fluid like Pentosin found as OEM fill in many German sports cars..ie Porsche, Mercedes... considering their factory replacement intervals are every 2 years.
Last edited by fastnoypi; 04-06-18 at 02:02 PM.
#66
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I don't know what model year RX you have, but there are no caliper pins in my 2010 brakes. Pads are kept in place by the caliper piston shell. The upper and lower tabs along with the clip on shims ride in a notch on the brake housing. A little moly grease in the notch will help them retract as needed.
FWIW, I didn't put any moly grease on the flat shims that came attached to the pads and they squeal a bit when applying them in reverse when cold. Shoulda, woulda, coulda.
Here is a .pdf of what the parts look like and the caliper piston shell...
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...ze/476669C.jpg
FWIW, I didn't put any moly grease on the flat shims that came attached to the pads and they squeal a bit when applying them in reverse when cold. Shoulda, woulda, coulda.
Here is a .pdf of what the parts look like and the caliper piston shell...
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...ze/476669C.jpg
Though the OP post is old, it is factually incorrect that may confuse others. Part # 47815 is the caliper pin in the parts diagram. FWIW, I use a brass bore brush typically used for gun cleaning..(cheap on ebay) to clean out residual old grease and grime in the slide pin bores along with some degreaser before re-lubricating.
Last edited by fastnoypi; 04-06-18 at 02:36 PM.
#67
#68
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Where can I find pad thickness spec for my 2015 RX350 F-Sport? The dealer told my wife she'd need $1000 in brakes by the next oil change @ just over 40K miles. She knows not to let them do it, because I will, but it'll be educational if I can show her they're trying to sell something she doesn't need.
Thanks!
kevin
Thanks!
kevin
#69
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I can understand the issue due to high cost, but I hope that Lexus tech did measure and report the pad thickness. It should be printed on the invoice.
I personally inspect the scallop or the middle cut on the pads. When you see the pad from the side you should be able to a see a notch in the middle and the ends should have a portion scalloped out. If the pads go past the service limit the middle slot should be almost gone and the edges stat showing no scalloping.
If you have not been topping up the brake fluid, it does fall low to compensate the loss in the pad thickness. Also I have noticed lot more brake dust as the pad wears down [may not be hard rule]
It is a fair question to ask for a break down of the cost.
Salim
I personally inspect the scallop or the middle cut on the pads. When you see the pad from the side you should be able to a see a notch in the middle and the ends should have a portion scalloped out. If the pads go past the service limit the middle slot should be almost gone and the edges stat showing no scalloping.
If you have not been topping up the brake fluid, it does fall low to compensate the loss in the pad thickness. Also I have noticed lot more brake dust as the pad wears down [may not be hard rule]
It is a fair question to ask for a break down of the cost.
Salim
#70
Driver School Candidate
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My local dealer has a $49 oil change special on Saturday from 1-4 so I decided to take mine in today. They come back telling me I have 3mm of pad on front and rear and quoted about $700 to do them. I got home and checked the rotor thickness (they were 28mm front) and pad thickness. Guess what? My pads both inside and out on both sides of the front show 8mm!
I just did a quick check with my digital calipers I use to reload ammunition. If you open the calipers there is a portion that extends from the bottom of the caliper that can be used to measure the thickness. I stuck one end against the pad through an opening in the rim and the other to the rotor. Now this isn’t exact but it’s pretty close. It’s hard to explain, I’ll see if I can add a picture.
#73
Driver School Candidate
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Best practice is ALWAYS clean/polish pins.replace bushings and rubber grommets and clean bores. Re-lube with SIL Glyde or similar. * using the wrong lube will cause your rubber bushings to swell and bind and the pins will not float freely.
IMHO Pins are the #1 Most overlooked and potentially problematic area of the mechanism, especially in a salty or dusty road environment. Pins are easy to polish, for the pin cylinder a firearm bore cleaning brush +-38 calibre works great or 600 grit wet dry wrapped around a bic pen barrel. If your caliper doesn't float freely your brakes are not functioning 100%
IMHO Pins are the #1 Most overlooked and potentially problematic area of the mechanism, especially in a salty or dusty road environment. Pins are easy to polish, for the pin cylinder a firearm bore cleaning brush +-38 calibre works great or 600 grit wet dry wrapped around a bic pen barrel. If your caliper doesn't float freely your brakes are not functioning 100%
The following 2 users liked this post by sbryant324:
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#74
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FYI, I just replaced the front pads on my 79K mile ’13 450h. Piece of cake. They weren’t down to the screamers but they were close – you could still see the slot in the pads, which I think indicates the minimum 1 mm thickness. All four were pretty even. Everything came apart as expected; the pistons pushed back in easily; the pins still had lubricant and their seals were intact and supple.
I used Akebono ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pads from Rock Auto, $45.89. They come with the backing plate installed and with new screamers, but not new clips. They come with a blister pack of just barely enough Moly-Lube, you have to be very stingy with it. The instructions say “Use of non-Akebono lubricants will void all warranties.” They also say “avoid the use of aerosol brake or petroleum based cleaners” which I thought was strange.
Curiously, I didn’t need to remove any brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Brakes feel the same as they always did, which was the plan. Good for another 80K!
Jonas
I used Akebono ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pads from Rock Auto, $45.89. They come with the backing plate installed and with new screamers, but not new clips. They come with a blister pack of just barely enough Moly-Lube, you have to be very stingy with it. The instructions say “Use of non-Akebono lubricants will void all warranties.” They also say “avoid the use of aerosol brake or petroleum based cleaners” which I thought was strange.
Curiously, I didn’t need to remove any brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Brakes feel the same as they always did, which was the plan. Good for another 80K!
Jonas