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2010 RX350 DIY Brakes vs Lexus Dealer
#121
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Hi Gents,
I took my 2013 RX f sport in for routine service and was told I need a complete brake job to the tune of $1,128. The vehicle is approaching 54K.
I can hear the wear indicator when braking in reverse, so I know it's time.
However, the cost is quite expensive, so I'm going to DIY.
I want all OEM parts from Lexus. For those of you that have done it yourself, can you gents provide the part numbers?
Thanks
I took my 2013 RX f sport in for routine service and was told I need a complete brake job to the tune of $1,128. The vehicle is approaching 54K.
I can hear the wear indicator when braking in reverse, so I know it's time.
However, the cost is quite expensive, so I'm going to DIY.
I want all OEM parts from Lexus. For those of you that have done it yourself, can you gents provide the part numbers?
Thanks
#122
Moderator
You can look it up yourself at one of the online discount OEM Lexus parts dealers. You can even enter your VIN to be absolutely sure you are ordering the correct parts. Some of the more popular sites are https://www.mylparts.com/ or https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/
I think they may offer discounts to CL members.
Have you ever replaced brake pads and rotors before? You will also need a few cans of spray brake cleaner, some synthetic brake grease for the pads and for the slide pins (don't forget to clean and grease them) I prefer Motorcraft XG3-A silicone brake caliper grease or Silglyde. Plus some rags and brass brushes to clean off the calipers. It helps to have the proper size bolts to screw into your old rotors to help push them off of the wheel hub. If you don't know what I am talking about, take it to a shop who can surely do this job for a lot less than a dealer. These are just basic Toyota brakes, same as on millions of Camry's, Highlanders, Siennas, Venzas, Lexus ES350 etc etc.
I think some of the aftermarket rotors with anti-rust coating are superior to the OEM Lexus rotors which are not coated and rust to pieces in a short period of time. I had to replace mine at 3 years just because they rusted so badly I failed inspection.
I think they may offer discounts to CL members.
Have you ever replaced brake pads and rotors before? You will also need a few cans of spray brake cleaner, some synthetic brake grease for the pads and for the slide pins (don't forget to clean and grease them) I prefer Motorcraft XG3-A silicone brake caliper grease or Silglyde. Plus some rags and brass brushes to clean off the calipers. It helps to have the proper size bolts to screw into your old rotors to help push them off of the wheel hub. If you don't know what I am talking about, take it to a shop who can surely do this job for a lot less than a dealer. These are just basic Toyota brakes, same as on millions of Camry's, Highlanders, Siennas, Venzas, Lexus ES350 etc etc.
I think some of the aftermarket rotors with anti-rust coating are superior to the OEM Lexus rotors which are not coated and rust to pieces in a short period of time. I had to replace mine at 3 years just because they rusted so badly I failed inspection.
#123
You can look it up yourself at one of the online discount OEM Lexus parts dealers. You can even enter your VIN to be absolutely sure you are ordering the correct parts. Some of the more popular sites are https://www.mylparts.com/ or https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/
I think they may offer discounts to CL members.
Have you ever replaced brake pads and rotors before? You will also need a few cans of spray brake cleaner, some synthetic brake grease for the pads and for the slide pins (don't forget to clean and grease them) I prefer Motorcraft XG3-A silicone brake caliper grease or Silglyde. Plus some rags and brass brushes to clean off the calipers. It helps to have the proper size bolts to screw into your old rotors to help push them off of the wheel hub. If you don't know what I am talking about, take it to a shop who can surely do this job for a lot less than a dealer. These are just basic Toyota brakes, same as on millions of Camry's, Highlanders, Siennas, Venzas, Lexus ES350 etc etc.
I think some of the aftermarket rotors with anti-rust coating are superior to the OEM Lexus rotors which are not coated and rust to pieces in a short period of time. I had to replace mine at 3 years just because they rusted so badly I failed inspection.
I think they may offer discounts to CL members.
Have you ever replaced brake pads and rotors before? You will also need a few cans of spray brake cleaner, some synthetic brake grease for the pads and for the slide pins (don't forget to clean and grease them) I prefer Motorcraft XG3-A silicone brake caliper grease or Silglyde. Plus some rags and brass brushes to clean off the calipers. It helps to have the proper size bolts to screw into your old rotors to help push them off of the wheel hub. If you don't know what I am talking about, take it to a shop who can surely do this job for a lot less than a dealer. These are just basic Toyota brakes, same as on millions of Camry's, Highlanders, Siennas, Venzas, Lexus ES350 etc etc.
I think some of the aftermarket rotors with anti-rust coating are superior to the OEM Lexus rotors which are not coated and rust to pieces in a short period of time. I had to replace mine at 3 years just because they rusted so badly I failed inspection.
#124
Driver School Candidate
Hello everyone. So I tried doing the rear brakes on my 2015 RX, and basically I couldn't get the 17mm off at all (being in DC with salty roads now and then did not help). Can't really put a breaker bar on there, so if anyone has any tips/tricks, I would appreciate it. For the rear right, I can use a jack on the wrench to loosen the bolt, but I'm not sure what to do on the left side.
Last edited by RageFked; 05-24-21 at 03:24 PM.
#125
Spray it down with PB Blaster every day for three or four days and then try it again. If that does not work, applying some heat via a small propane torch may do the trick.
#126
Driver School Candidate
I'll try PB Blaster. Honestly, not sure if I feel comfortable with my own hands and using a torch on the brakes. Too worried of heating too much or ruining any nearby brake lines or rubber parts.
#127
Moderator
Hello everyone. So I tried doing the rear brakes on my 2015 RX, and basically I couldn't get the 17mm off at all (being in DC with salty roads now and then did not help). Can't really put a breaker bar on there, so if anyone has any tips/tricks, I would appreciate it. For the rear right, I can use a jack on the wrench to loosen the bolt, but I'm not sure what to do on the left side.
I would only use exact 6 point socket.
Penetrating oil is your best buddy along with patience. If you are not comfortable with any tool (propane torch) then don't use it. The bolt head can take the heat though. You can use a bar and hammer to hep get the penetrant into the bolt.
You can examine the access and use adapters to extend out and still get the breaker bar advantage. Just make sure the angles are straight and the socket does not slip.
I have the small impact wrench and that sucker can produce a good bit of torque and with penetrant treated bolts it can bust them free,
Once the bolt moves tiny bit, remember to re-tighten ..... do not try to take the bolt out in one go. Later you can do 1/2 turn out and 1/4 turn in.
Salim
The following users liked this post:
aadil3 (10-12-21)
#128
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Hello everyone. So I tried doing the rear brakes on my 2015 RX, and basically I couldn't get the 17mm off at all (being in DC with salty roads now and then did not help). Can't really put a breaker bar on there, so if anyone has any tips/tricks, I would appreciate it. For the rear right, I can use a jack on the wrench to loosen the bolt, but I'm not sure what to do on the left side.
#129
Moderator
I got an extra long 17mm x 19mm closed end wrench for this purpose, it's over a foot long and you can then stick a pipe on the end for more leverage. I got it on Amazon or eBay.
#130
Instructor
Time to do the rears again, 145k. Below are the specs just in case anyone needed it, pulled it from another thread I posted. This is from TIS for our 2010 350, imagine it’s the same for the third generation overall.
Front disc brake cylinder mounting to steering knuckle 77 foot pounds. Front disc brake cylinder assembly to the front disc brake cylinder mounting, 25 foot pounds. Front disc brake bleeder plug is 73 INCH pounds. Front flex hose to front disc brake cylinder assembly 22 foot pounds. Front speed sensor to steering knuckle 71 INCH pounds.
Rear disc brake cylinder mounting to rear axle carrier 58 foot pounds . rear disc brake cylinder assembly to rear disc brake cylinder mounting 20 foot pounds . rear flexible hose to rear disc brake cylinder Assembly 22 foot pounds . Rear disc brake bleeder plug 8 foot pounds.
The above is for a 2010 Rx350
Front disc brake cylinder mounting to steering knuckle 77 foot pounds. Front disc brake cylinder assembly to the front disc brake cylinder mounting, 25 foot pounds. Front disc brake bleeder plug is 73 INCH pounds. Front flex hose to front disc brake cylinder assembly 22 foot pounds. Front speed sensor to steering knuckle 71 INCH pounds.
Rear disc brake cylinder mounting to rear axle carrier 58 foot pounds . rear disc brake cylinder assembly to rear disc brake cylinder mounting 20 foot pounds . rear flexible hose to rear disc brake cylinder Assembly 22 foot pounds . Rear disc brake bleeder plug 8 foot pounds.
The above is for a 2010 Rx350
The following users liked this post:
RedHawk22 (12-15-21)
#131
Driver School Candidate
The rotors are fine as long as you don't get into the 1 mm wear zone. In my opinion, Lexus rotors are so predictable, there may never be a need to machine them. I'm not a big fan of doing that as it decreases the thermal capacity of the cast iron material they are made of, which then increases the potential for runout from overheating. The maximum runout is 0.05 mm or two thousandths of an inch (.00197) for the front rotor, and 0.15 mm or .00591 in for the rear. However, I intend to swap them well before that, perhaps at 2-3 mm (approx. one year from now in my case). The rotors will glaze over, but that can be remedied by un-mounting them; there are two 8 mm threaded holes on the rotor to facilitate that - you basically "screw" them off after removing the hub nut. Once off, a wire brush will clean up the glaze. There is also a thin lip around the circumference that can be filed off. The standard thickness of the front rotor when new is 28 mm and 10 mm for the rear. The minimum thickness is 21 mm in front, and 8.5 mm for the rear. Below that requires a change; new rotors are about $135 each from Sewell including the Club Lexus discount. It's easily conceivable that rotors can last five years or more, depending on the severity of your drive profile, load characteristics, etc...
There are some excellent videos on Youtube that cover many aspects of disk brake maintenance.
There are some excellent videos on Youtube that cover many aspects of disk brake maintenance.
#132
I have a 2015 RX350 which has 83000 miles on it. I get my oil changed etc at a local service which is not either a Lexus dealer or a ca dealer. Every time i get the oil changed i ask to have the brakes checked to see if the pads etc need replacing. A lot of our driving of this car over the past 6 years has been interstate trips so i guess that is a factor, but my service providers....i have used 3 different ones over the years...always say my brake pads etc are still ok. I find this hard to believe, but dont know what else to do about it. I dont want to take it to Lexus due to their prices unless i have no alternative. Im not mechanically experienced. What can i do to make sure my brakes really have lasted 83000 MILES without needing a change? Thanks very much.
I changed the front rotors at 200K on our '07 but didn't change the rears as they still looked good. On a post job test drive one of the rear rotors broke. Snapped the braking surface right off the hub. I think from now on I'll replace any rotor that hits 200K miles just for peace of mind.
#133
If you would like to look at your pads yourself. Remove a wheel and look in the little window on you caliper to see how thick the pad is. Or if you have your tires rotated tell the tech that you would like to see for yourself while the wheel is removed.
#134
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: NC
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I went 62,000 miles on the original pads. Just wanted to have it done before moving to another state. Had a non-factory shop do the work whom I trusted. They charged me $700 for everything. Thought they would recut the rotors. They just put new ones on all cars as so many warp these days as they are thinner than they used to be. Asked what brand they used. Was told NAPA stuff. So I will just do it myself the next time. I do most everything myself. YouTube videos are great. Just view several of them on the same subject. I have had my own lift for over 25 years now also.