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2013 RX 350 Tire

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Old 08-28-14, 07:33 AM
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relax221
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Default 2013 RX 350 Tire

i got a screw in my tire with a slow leak. is this covered under warranty or should i have it done locally ?

Last edited by lobuxracer; 05-08-15 at 12:14 PM.
Old 08-28-14, 07:47 AM
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MDames2
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It's not covered under the factory warranty from Lexus. It may be covered under the tire manufacturer's warranty. However, if you can take it to an America's Tire shop, they fix flats for free. If the nail is in the tread you can fix it. If it's in the outer edge toward the sidewall, or in the sidewall, it can't be patched. You would need a new tire.
Old 08-28-14, 08:17 AM
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JDR76
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No need to yell... ;-)

When I picked up a nail and a slow leak in my IS tire, my SA at the dealer said I could make an appointment and have them take care of it. But then I called my local tire shop (Les Schwab) and they were willing to take me on a drop in, and fixed it for free in under 30 minutes.
Old 08-28-14, 08:51 AM
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Tom558
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We had a slow leak in a tire recently on our RX. Took it to the local tire shop we have been doing business with for years and they fixed it up while we waited. I think this is pretty common and done to generate good will to get your new tire business in the future.

MANY years ago when I worked in a gas station / garage we charged for flat repair but it was pretty minimal. Of course, gas was $.40/gallon.
Old 08-28-14, 08:57 AM
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CapeDave
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Originally Posted by Tom558
We had a slow leak in a tire recently on our RX. Took it to the local tire shop we have been doing business with for years and they fixed it up while we waited. I think this is pretty common and done to generate good will to get your new tire business in the future.

MANY years ago when I worked in a gas station / garage we charged for flat repair but it was pretty minimal. Of course, gas was $.40/gallon.
Dating myself, but I remember those days. And on some Tuesdays it was like $.19 cents per gal.!
Old 08-28-14, 09:38 AM
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Less than a $20 fix at any tire shop you see on the road.
Old 08-28-14, 09:45 AM
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kitlz
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I've had two screws in same tire in less than a year. The first time the repair cost $25. I lucked out on the second one. It wasn't long and hit deepest part of the tread. Any local tire shop should take care of it. Ask them to reset the TPMS too. I assume it went off to let you know the tire was leaking air. You should be fine as long as it didn't hit the sidewall.

And yes, turn off the caps lock. We can 'hear' you just fine.
Old 08-28-14, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by kitlz
I've had two screws in same tire in less than a year. The first time the repair cost $25. I lucked out on the second one. It wasn't long and hit deepest part of the tread. Any local tire shop should take care of it. Ask them to reset the TPMS too. I assume it went off to let you know the tire was leaking air. You should be fine as long as it didn't hit the sidewall.

And yes, turn off the caps lock. We can 'hear' you just fine.
Hey Anita;

I had one (nail) and my TPMS went away as soon as PSI came back within specs. Is it different for a 450? Is there a scenario where a hard reset is required vs automatic?
Old 08-28-14, 01:04 PM
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kitlz
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Originally Posted by oohpapi44
Hey Anita;

I had one (nail) and my TPMS went away as soon as PSI came back within specs. Is it different for a 450? Is there a scenario where a hard reset is required vs automatic?
It's the same. The first time TPMS came on (no nail), I just added air and was fine too. The second time was when I picked up a screw. TPMS came on around 28, then went down to 1 after the spare was installed. TPMS light was also on. The tire place probably reset it for me after they fixed it. I know hard reset is recommended after changing tires. I thought I read something about after significant changes in tire pressure. I don't see any great harm in doing it as long as the tire pressure is correct.
Old 08-28-14, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kitlz
It's the same. The first time TPMS came on (no nail), I just added air and was fine too. The second time was when I picked up a screw. TPMS came on around 28, then went down to 1 after the spare was installed. TPMS light was also on. The tire place probably reset it for me after they fixed it. I know hard reset is recommended after changing tires. I thought I read something about after significant changes in tire pressure. I don't see any great harm in doing it as long as the tire pressure is correct.
Thanks, i've had both and TPMS reset automatically both times. Tire was completely flat in the garage (which is how i found out about the nail), re-filled it to get to a tire shop. Plug installed = reset.

Plug started to leak and psi dropped down to 20 and came on again. Fixed the plug and light reset on it's own.

Mechanic was never inside the cabin to reset and I haven't tried to 'find' the button myself yet so know it's doing it automatically...

Now i'm curious.

(sorry for the hijack)
Old 08-28-14, 02:25 PM
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Marqevans
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Originally Posted by oohpapi44
Thanks, i've had both and TPMS reset automatically both times. Tire was completely flat in the garage (which is how i found out about the nail), re-filled it to get to a tire shop. Plug installed = reset.

Plug started to leak and psi dropped down to 20 and came on again. Fixed the plug and light reset on it's own.

Mechanic was never inside the cabin to reset and I haven't tried to 'find' the button myself yet so know it's doing it automatically...

Now i'm curious.

(sorry for the hijack)
Surprised they used a "plug" from the outside. The proper way is to remove the tire from the rim and patch from the inside. Which of course leads to rebalancing.
Old 08-28-14, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MARQEVANS
Surprised they used a "plug" from the outside. The proper way is to remove the tire from the rim and patch from the inside. Which of course leads to rebalancing.
??? He didn't say the plug was inserted from the outside. He said the tire shop didn't go inside his vehicle to reset the TPMS
Old 08-29-14, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by MARQEVANS
Surprised they used a "plug" from the outside. The proper way is to remove the tire from the rim and patch from the inside. Which of course leads to rebalancing.
A patch and plug are two separate things entirely. A patch is done from the inside, a plug is a piece of rubber compound applied with a sticky substance to fill a small hole (ie screw or nail) in the tire by 'plugging' it into the hole (from the outside) until it is sealed. Supposedly they can last the life of the tire.

Some people compain about using plugs and say a patch is better. Driving generates heat causing expansion. Plug is made of a different compound so will expand at a different rate that the tire thus likely leading to failure. So go with a patch. But. found this and the ideal repair would be a combination of both. I will be doing so this week.

Here’s something that will ruin you’re entire morning, the old screw or nail in the tire deal that leaves you with a flat. Well, they usually can be fixed, but you have to use some precautions here: number one, you’re going to have to put on a spare. Your spare is probably a temporary. It’s going to have all kinds of writing on it. I would suggest that you follow those directions, because the only way that this can be safe is if it used as a temporary spare and it has the proper pressure in it.

Fixing the tire! That’s where the real issue comes in. Remember, number one, that you cannot repair a tire if the damage is outside these lines. No, your tire doesn’t have lines like that. You have to envision them on the tires.

The typical way that a tire is fixed, and it’s completely improper, is to take a plug and just jam it through the tread of the tire and that’s the end of it. If it doesn’t leak, everything is fine. But how do you know what the inside of the tire looks like? You don’t. So, the tire always has to be de-mounted from the rim for a proper repair.

Now that also leads us to another problem. You get it de-mounted. What do a lot of people do? They put a patch in there. Well, the patch doesn’t work either, not by itself. The reason for that is real simple. If you put a plug through the outside it seals the outside, but doesn’t necessarily seal the inside. So that’s the reason you de-mount the tire and you put a special sealant around the plug that keeps air from migrating into the plies of the rubber in the tire. Now granted, you can put a patch in there, but the patch doesn’t seal the outside of the tire, therefore water can get in and rust the steel belts.

So the ideal situation is a plug patch. This is both a plug and a patch, and this goes from the inside of the tire to the outside. It’s pushed through and then you grab it with a pair of pliers and you pull it. It has a rubber plug that is built into it, so once this is pulled through, the metal piece comes off, the inside is a patch, it seals the inside, it seals the outside, it’s considered a permanent repair.

Do your homework before you have a tire repair, because that’s the only way to have that tire safe is to have it fixed properly.
http://www.motorweek.org/features/go...or_not_to_plug

But yes, the tire guy never went inside the vehicle to reset the TPMS so it reset automatically. The curiousity of when I will have to do a manual reset still remains.
Old 08-29-14, 08:09 AM
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kitlz
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Definitely agree with the plug patch approach. That's what my tire guy did after removing the screw. The tire was rebalanced and TPMS reset too. It's been a year without any issues. Again, out the door cost was $25. I've been a customer of his for over ten years so price may vary.
Old 08-29-14, 09:03 AM
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Whichever route you decide to go with, DO NOT use Fix-A-Flat.
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