Weird looking engine air filter.....
#1
Weird looking engine air filter.....
Air filter looks weird. In addition to the regular filter material, there is about a quarter inch thick white mesh material stuck to the filter with a glue. What is that??? Is this just for the hybrid engine? Why on earth would you need another "mesh" after the air has been filtered??? Anyone know what is going?
#5
Thanks for the response. Now that I know it's on every RX models, the next questions are:
- what do we do when replacing the current filter? Non OEM filter probably won't have these. Does that mean we have to take these off and reglue these back on the new filter?
- more basically - will new OEM filters have these already glued on?
- what happen to our MAS if we don't use these mesh on the new air filter - assuming more air now gets sucked in (every obstacle between the air and the engine restricts air flow)?
- what do we do when replacing the current filter? Non OEM filter probably won't have these. Does that mean we have to take these off and reglue these back on the new filter?
- more basically - will new OEM filters have these already glued on?
- what happen to our MAS if we don't use these mesh on the new air filter - assuming more air now gets sucked in (every obstacle between the air and the engine restricts air flow)?
#6
The replacement Fram filters show the non-woven pad in place, and I would not reuse a pad... just purchase a replacement which already has it.
The non-woven pad on the filter element serves only as a coarse PRE-filter for the incoming air to prevent large things from packing in between the paper pleats. It really is not that critical because the paper pleats filter to a much higher level of cleanliness. This prefilter also has a minimal effect on air flow (pressure drop) across the filter. A dirty air filter will have a much higher pressure drop (restricted air flow) by itself than this pad will ever have (unless someone literally packs it with lots of large, flat contaminants like grass clippings, love bugs, etc.). Your engines ignition controls will compensate for differences in flow based on the MAF sensor reading (as it does now when the filter gets dirty), and it will do so with or without the non-woven pad. Personally, I would still use filters which have it, though.
There is also a second pad behind the filter in the filter housing which I guess serves as an "emergency backup" in the event someone forgets to install the new filter element or doesn't properly latch the clasps on the filter housing lid... if I am guessing correctly, it keeps some form of filtration in place. I don't know how easy it is to remove the secondary filtration pad, but it should be either vacuumed, blown, washed, or replaced whenever it shows any form if dirtiness. Also, if it DOES show that it's really dirty, you should inspect the housing carefully to see if it is because of a bad seal on the filter element's foam lip.
CORRECTION... the second pad is a carbon filter and is reportedly not replaceable, but I honestly can't see how Lexus would realistically expect such a filter to last forever.
The non-woven pad on the filter element serves only as a coarse PRE-filter for the incoming air to prevent large things from packing in between the paper pleats. It really is not that critical because the paper pleats filter to a much higher level of cleanliness. This prefilter also has a minimal effect on air flow (pressure drop) across the filter. A dirty air filter will have a much higher pressure drop (restricted air flow) by itself than this pad will ever have (unless someone literally packs it with lots of large, flat contaminants like grass clippings, love bugs, etc.). Your engines ignition controls will compensate for differences in flow based on the MAF sensor reading (as it does now when the filter gets dirty), and it will do so with or without the non-woven pad. Personally, I would still use filters which have it, though.
There is also a second pad behind the filter in the filter housing which I guess serves as an "emergency backup" in the event someone forgets to install the new filter element or doesn't properly latch the clasps on the filter housing lid... if I am guessing correctly, it keeps some form of filtration in place. I don't know how easy it is to remove the secondary filtration pad, but it should be either vacuumed, blown, washed, or replaced whenever it shows any form if dirtiness. Also, if it DOES show that it's really dirty, you should inspect the housing carefully to see if it is because of a bad seal on the filter element's foam lip.
CORRECTION... the second pad is a carbon filter and is reportedly not replaceable, but I honestly can't see how Lexus would realistically expect such a filter to last forever.
Last edited by F250; 09-07-16 at 06:22 AM.
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#9
Well, after reading in es, is and Toyota Highlander forum http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/12...r-air-box.html about removing the carbon filter and getting better throttle response, I decided to try on the rx. Our air box isa little different than what I saw on highlander forum, and basically used a screwdriver and body molding tools to snap the plastic rivets holding the filter in place. The way I saw it, removing the air box would not give me too much advantage since it’s a one piece design and the filter is in sideways compared the second gen highlander.
Filter inplace
Plastic Rivets snapped
Filter inplace
Plastic Rivets snapped
Last edited by afpj; 04-15-18 at 04:21 PM. Reason: forgot link
#10
Filter out
will see if there are any performance gains from the butt dynometer as some others have noticed ( it certainly isn’t a universal improvement, some people noticed, others did not.) I figured at 115k miles, wth.
Last edited by afpj; 04-15-18 at 04:29 PM.
#11
I had 2012 Highlander and recall no plastic this or that to be removed to get to air filter. That looks like a white mesh for large particulate retention and I see no gain possible from having it removed. Have fun. What was wrong with simply switching to high air flow filter?
#12
That mesh charcoal filter I removed is downstream of the engine air filter. The engine air filter itself is not shown in the pics I took, just the airbox, without air filter, showing the charcoal mesh filter used for intake vapor backflow mitigation (emissions for some states, but not mine). Yes, there maybe no gain in removing it, but I had read online (a dangerous thing indeed) of others that removed it with better throttle response etc. Well, about 80 miles into it I do feel an improve throttle response, but not huge due to traffic limitations. tranny Kickdown is much more responsive and consistent, and the real annoying tranny lag when cold is much improved. Mileage is essentially unchanged. I actually saw a gain of 1 mpg but I've been driving in heavy traffic (not quite stop & go, but going 45 instead of 65) so hard to say. If I was driving my normal leadfooted self, then I'd expect no gain in mileage.
I sure hope that made sense...I was rambling as usual
I sure hope that made sense...I was rambling as usual
#15
I checked and there isn't such a filter on my vehicle. Back to the original post, my factory genuine engine air filter does have the white filter layer before the paper element. Quite similar to my previous vehicle, a BMW E39.