Well guys, I did my own oil change. It wasn't too bad. I bought 3 5-quart jugs of Penzoil 0W-20--if the rebate comes through that'll be like about $14 per jug. So, about $18 for 6.4 quarts.

I got the filter on Amazon too for $7. The washer I got from the Toyota dealership for about $1.50. So, all in about $25 for materials. I also got the filter wrench tool for about $16 and a fluid drain "bucket" thing for around $11, but not counting that since I can reuse it

Pretty decent compared to $100 for a oil change from the dealership and I know how I did it as opposed to taking to one of those quick places.

But today I took it to a Toyota dealership for the brake fluid change and the tire rotation and balance and was charged quite a bit It ended up being around $160 for the brake fluid flush and $90 for the tire rotation and balance. Both felt really exorbitant. I think I will be doing those myself next time (well, except for balancing).

 

Good idea that you did the oil yourself. But, why are you taking your car to a dealer for maintenance items? Any good shop can do a brake fluid flush...how do you know it even needed it? How many miles on the tires? Where did you get them? Most places that sell tires will do a free balance and rotate at regular intervals.

I'm just not understanding the need to go to a dealer for those things. Everybody on this site is telling you not to go to the dealer, but you are doing it anyway....

 

I know that I've said it in other posts but I'll say again that checking and tightening the bolts to correct torque setting for the following parts are important:

balljoints
tie-rod ends
lower control arms
springs/shocks
strut top mounts
driver side inner tie-rod.

My mechanic tells me he does this and I believe him but I wonder how hard it is to do on your own. Is there a manual where it tells you how to do all this with correct torque settings and stuff???

 

Chilton and AllDataDIY both have vehicle specific repair manuals which can be accessed by online subscription. There are also multiple sites where you can purchase and download a PDF of the manual. All seem to run in the $25-$30 range, the subscriptions obviously being an annual cost.

Also, I just found a link to an eBay seller who appears to have an abundance of digital PDF formats for the actual Lexus materials, most seem to be about $54. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/122195541929?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

 

Not that it is worth much, but I did find the specs for the RX300 online. The THIRD value (number) is the lb/ft spec. This is for suspension/steering/brakes.

FRONT: Hub nut 103 1,050 76 Tie rod end lock nut 74 750 55 Steering knuckle x Shock absorber 210 2,150 155 Steering knuckle x Brake caliper 107 1,090 79 Steering knuckle x Tie rod end 49 500 36 Axle hub x Front drive shaft 294 3,000 217 Lower ball joint x Lower suspension arm 127 1,300 94 Lower ball joint x Steering knuckle 123 1,250 90 Steering knuckle x Dust cover 8.3 85 74 in.·lbf Brake reservoir tank set bolt 8.8 90 78 in.·lbf Suspension support x Body (Front upper suspension brace) 80 820 59 Suspension support x Piston rod 49 500 36 ABS speed sensor set bolt 8.0 82 71 in.·lbf Flexible hose and ABS speed sensor wire harness x Shock absorber 29 300 21 Lower suspension arm set bolt 206 2,100 152 Stabilizer bar bracket x Suspension member 19 195 14 Stabilizer bar link set nut 39 400 29 REAR: Hub nut 103 1,050 76 ABS speed sensor x Rear axle carrier 20 200 14 ABS speed sensor wire harness x Shock absorber 5.0 51 44 in.·lbf Flexible hose x Shock absorber 29 300 21 Axle hub x Rear drive shaft 216 2,200 159 Backing plate set nut 72 730 53 Parking brake cable x Backing plate 8.0 82 71 in.·lbf Rear axle carrier x Brake caliper 47 475 34 Shock absorber x Rear axle carrier 255 2,600 188 Drain plug 49 500 36 Filler plug 49 500 36 Breather plug 21 210 15 Companion flange x Drive pinion SA–69 Companion flange x Propeller shaft 74 750 54 Rear drive shaft x Side gear shaft 56 570 41 Differential rear mounting bolt 95 970 70 Rear crossmember set bolt 137 1,400 101 Differential carrier x Rear crossmember 103 1,050 76 Rear crossmember x Damper 27 270 20 Differential case x Ring gear 97 985 71 Differential carrier x Side bearing cap 79 800 58 Differential carrier x Differential carrier cover 47 475 34 Oil deflector set bolt 7.4 75 65 in.·lbf Suspension support x Body 39 400 29

 

we should sticky this! (so long as it's not copyrighted) Over the years, CL must have saved me thousands of $$$!

 

I did these things as part of the listed maintenance things based on the service manual for hitting 30k miles. Also, I think most of the feedback was:

- don't ask for X mileage packages at the dealer, that's always a rip-off
- do things yourself as much as possible
- take it in (preferably independent shop) for what you can't

I went to the dealer for a couple of reasons... I thought perhaps the Toyota dealer (as opposed to a straight Lexus dealer) would have more reasonable prices. I've heard about others trying this too, so I thought I'd give it a shot. They are also much closer and I'd knew they'd have capacity. Also, I recently did a brake fluid flush myself on my other car... I don't think I did it wrong, but the results caused my confidence to waver. So for piece of mind, to be "safe", I didn't want to mess around. I probably could've done the tire rotation but definitely not the balancing myself. Lastly, there is a local shop that I trust and sometimes go to, but it's always over capacity and out of the way.

Ultimately, I thought the Toyota dealer would
1. be cheaper than the Lexus dealer costs
2. not cost too much higher than the independent shop and
3. would be more convenient from a travel/time/needing to leave the car standpoint.

So, #1 and #2 have been proven untrue.

 

I went through all the values in the torque list above, and found two things. First, the units are in the order of N-m, Kg-cm, and then lbf-ft (except for the few noted lbf-in values). The second thing is that there are some rounding errors on some values, most often in the center column of Kg-cm values. I calculated the conversions from two different assumptions - 1) an assumption that the lbf-ft values were correct and the metric values were converted from SAE, and then 2) from the assumption that the N-m values were correct and the second metric column and SAE column values were converted from N-m. To me, it seems best to assume that the SAE lbf-ft values are the basis for the other two unit conversions be cause it pushes a few more of the metric values upwards by just a hair, and I am much more inclined to give a tiny bit of extra torque on every bolt I tighten as an extra safety measure since I know that the recommended limits include a safety factor.

That said, it's hard to read through the text paragraph to locate specific values and items, so I generated a table and converted it to a PDF for easy download and reference by others. Hope it helps.

 

When looking at the service record of the 2010 RX350 I just bought, there is no comment or notation that the transmission fluid has been changed. From my understanding Lexus says it’s good for life? Well, if they say that, I’m not buying it. I’ve read where the general consensus of this community is to get the trans fluid changed every 30-50K, correct?

So with almost 71K on my “new” vehicle I want to have the transmission fluid changed/flushed ASAP. I assume I should also get the differential and transfer box fluids changed (do these two services require a flush?) at the same time and then have all three fluids changed every 30-50K thereafter. When scheduling service, I should have it performed at a Toyota/Lexus dealer unless I find an independent shop experienced with this vehicle, correct? Am I on the right track?

 

You are on the right track and should get all of those fluids changed.
FYI the technical term for the transmission is a fluid exchange since it is technically not a flush. The car's running engine and trans provides the circulation and their machine measures the fluids in and out as it exchanges old for new transmission fluid. There are a few different brands of these machines and all are pretty similar.
The differential and transfer case (not box) fluids are changed by a simple drain and fill. They do not hold much fluid.
Every 50K thereafter is a good interval for future fluid changes.
Brake fluid every 3 years and Coolant at 10 years according to Toyota/Lexus. You can do coolant sooner if you have the budget. I do not want to leave it in there that long.

You can price shop with Toyota and Lexus dealers. I took my Niece's 2010 ES350 to the local Priority Toyota dealer for a transmission fluid exchange, coolant change and brake fluid flush. It has the same engine and transmission as the RX (and Highlander, Venza, Sienna)
If you can find a good independent Toyota specialist it may be cheaper, but the transmission fluid level check procedure is insane and temperature dependent and best done by someone who knows what they are doing.
Some dealers will not do it and will say you should never change it. Do not go to those dealers for service.

 

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and for the guidance. I enjoy learning and understanding more about the various maintenance recommendations, schedules, mechanical terms, etc. from this community. I’ve always been diligent with all vehicles I’ve owned when it comes to regular maintenance. Since this is a previously owned vehicle I want to get it up to my standards and know where I’m at with all the normal maintenance items.

I’ll be getting the transmission fluid “exchange” as well as have the differential and transfer case fluids changed ASAP. I’ll plan to get the radiator fluid flushed and changed too. The brake fluid was changed about 10K/1 1/2 years ago so I’m good there for awhile. The other thing I’m going to have done soon will be having the oil cooler hose exchanged for the metal version.

I know the coolant is suggested to be changed every 100K but what intervals do you suggest? As for oil changes, I’m probably going to get on a change cycle of every 7,500 miles. Any comments or other recommendations are welcome! Thank you!

 

Toyota Long Life Coolant has a factory recommended change interval of 10 years or 100,000 miles. It has generally proved to be able to last that long in most circumstances. Since your vehicle is a 2010, it is about time to change it. Make sure they only use the Toyota Super Long Life. This is one item where it may be best to use a dealer unless you can find a great independent Toyota Specialist who says they will use Toyota Super Long Life. Maybe the guys at Howard Motor Corp can take care of your fluid change requirements. I read that they will let you bring in your own parts. So you could get the coolant if they don't have it.
You probably don't have to worry about it again for another 10 years.

I change my oil about every 7,500 miles or once a year. However many folks here change it every 5,000 miles and that is even better if you have the budget, time, or plan to keep your vehicle forever, or maybe to help your used vehicle which may have an unknown maintenance history, or a history of 5,000 mile oil changes. People start fights over oil change intervals and even the brand of oil or filter or other maintenance preferences. That is what www.bobistheoilguy.com is for checking out.