2013 RX350 Complete Brake Job Questions
#16
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I take our RX and IS to a Toyota dealer for service. Oil changes are pretty reasonable; even using synthetic. However, they tried to gaff me $700 just to replace pads last time I was in. Seriously? I told them no and I found a local mechanic who I'll bring it to.
#17
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I'm late to the party...
Rotor replacement with pads is about 20 min per side job. Come over I'll do it for free for you. POC. That is under condition that your rotors DO need replacement, as it is known for dealers to slap unnecessary repairs.
Any mobile mech will do this for you for decent price and your parts. Also, as they do not like to be called after and do over, they will suggest decent price and quality components aftermarket. For this job there is absolutely no need to pay that much, it is so trivial.
Now, there's caveat. AS SOON as you are done, you MUST do bedding procedure. MUST. Or, you will be feeding mechs ever so often for "warped" rotors (none such animal exists, actually). So as I wish you well. LAst time I did rotors was on inlaw work van, with over 70 000 miles by now and going. Also, Toyota - should you buy Toyota rotors (why?) - rotors do not like ceramic brake pads, they rub. And rotors glaze quickly. Anyway. Semi met pads, though giving you a bit of brake dust in the front, will be better option.
Rotor replacement with pads is about 20 min per side job. Come over I'll do it for free for you. POC. That is under condition that your rotors DO need replacement, as it is known for dealers to slap unnecessary repairs.
Any mobile mech will do this for you for decent price and your parts. Also, as they do not like to be called after and do over, they will suggest decent price and quality components aftermarket. For this job there is absolutely no need to pay that much, it is so trivial.
Now, there's caveat. AS SOON as you are done, you MUST do bedding procedure. MUST. Or, you will be feeding mechs ever so often for "warped" rotors (none such animal exists, actually). So as I wish you well. LAst time I did rotors was on inlaw work van, with over 70 000 miles by now and going. Also, Toyota - should you buy Toyota rotors (why?) - rotors do not like ceramic brake pads, they rub. And rotors glaze quickly. Anyway. Semi met pads, though giving you a bit of brake dust in the front, will be better option.
#18
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Worn out rotors at 51k miles is a little early, I think.
But, I was charged $800 for a full brake job, including turning the rotors at 93k (Texas).
Don't use aftermarket brake pads. In my experience, they are softer and that can result in spongy braking.
Turning the rotor can be done through most car part shops, but I think they are too important to send to a no-name place.
I'd stick with your dealer for the brakes and engine work.
But, I was charged $800 for a full brake job, including turning the rotors at 93k (Texas).
Don't use aftermarket brake pads. In my experience, they are softer and that can result in spongy braking.
Turning the rotor can be done through most car part shops, but I think they are too important to send to a no-name place.
I'd stick with your dealer for the brakes and engine work.
#19
Intermediate
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I had the local Toyota dealer do front and rear brakes (pads and rotors) for about $850 total....it was much earlier than I had hoped, but my wife is not kind to brakes...I have saved (on other maintenance) routinely 40-50% vs Lexus using
the Toyota folks, and everything has been marvelously performed (and they also have nice coffee and bagels).
the Toyota folks, and everything has been marvelously performed (and they also have nice coffee and bagels).
#20
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I had the local Toyota dealer do front and rear brakes (pads and rotors) for about $850 total....it was much earlier than I had hoped, but my wife is not kind to brakes...I have saved (on other maintenance) routinely 40-50% vs Lexus using
the Toyota folks, and everything has been marvelously performed (and they also have nice coffee and bagels).
the Toyota folks, and everything has been marvelously performed (and they also have nice coffee and bagels).
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Salim
#21
Intermediate
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just seemed like a big metal box, though it's much nicer now. My nearest Lexus dealer is 150 miles away, so I've gotten very comfy with Toyota service, and the prices versus those charged by Lexus.
#23
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Thanks everybody for their suggestions. What I ended up doing is buying the parts (front rotor + front/rear pads) from Lexus Parts World for about $240, and then I found an independent mechanic that did the work for $225 + tax. So overall for roughly $480 I got the whole job done. The judder is gone now, so the front rotors were definitely bent, even though they still looked like they were in good shape. The rear rotors should still be good to go for a while, there was no need to replace them.
#24
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I'm a former tech, lurking here. I was curious as I"m new to Lexus ownership. So I looked up the parts prices and 450 for one axle (incl parts) is even over paying by as much as double, not to mention the original quote in this thread of over 1000
. An OEM equivalent is just fine for these vehicles. If you're talking a 300k dollar car, I might research that first.
What difference does anyone here think using OEM equivalent parts is going to do to your RX? After market parts are made to OEM specs and work as good or even better in many cases than new, provided you stay away from the cheapest options. i can pretty much guarantee you won't be back in the shop any sooner bc you bought OEM equivalent. On the other hand, paying 450 for one axle? I'm guessing most shops will be more than happy to see you back ASAP.
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What difference does anyone here think using OEM equivalent parts is going to do to your RX? After market parts are made to OEM specs and work as good or even better in many cases than new, provided you stay away from the cheapest options. i can pretty much guarantee you won't be back in the shop any sooner bc you bought OEM equivalent. On the other hand, paying 450 for one axle? I'm guessing most shops will be more than happy to see you back ASAP.
Overall cost includes labor and that adds a fair chuck. Most Lexus owners prefer service/repair done at Lexus and then some would drop down to Toyota (although very few admit that they drive a Toyota
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When it comes to electronic sensors, I strongly recommend to stay with OEM and purchase from reputed discount dealer or reputable seller. To much junk is being sold with OEM part numbers.
The other issue has been availability or lack of availability of good quality after market parts. As RX popularity grows, maybe there would be more available, but once again the Lexus brand owners hardly try to improve and aftermarket quality manufacturers are not motivated due to insignificant market. The generic segment is growing, but then you never know where the part is coming from. Hence my reservation.
Salim
#25
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Ok, so I took off the tires today and took a closer look. The brake pads front and rear are definitely done, they only have like 1-2 mm left each.
The rotors now I tried to measure, it's quite difficult since I only have a cheap regular caliper, so I tried to use the 2 coin method. But especially the rear rotors have some shielding around them which make them hard to access. Nevertheless, I measured the front rotors at 28.75 mm and the rear at 10.4 mm. I realize theses seem to be the measurements of almost new rotors, so not sure if I measured that badly or the rotors are still in very good shape. But they really don't look that bad at all, neither front nor back. Considering that we have judder while braking though, I think I am going to go with replacing the front rotors together with the pads front and back. The rear rotors look like they should be fine for a bit longer.
Thanks everybody.
The rotors now I tried to measure, it's quite difficult since I only have a cheap regular caliper, so I tried to use the 2 coin method. But especially the rear rotors have some shielding around them which make them hard to access. Nevertheless, I measured the front rotors at 28.75 mm and the rear at 10.4 mm. I realize theses seem to be the measurements of almost new rotors, so not sure if I measured that badly or the rotors are still in very good shape. But they really don't look that bad at all, neither front nor back. Considering that we have judder while braking though, I think I am going to go with replacing the front rotors together with the pads front and back. The rear rotors look like they should be fine for a bit longer.
Thanks everybody.
My concern is if the front rotors need replaced why not replace the rears also. I value my families safety and feel it is more then the $100 plus labor in costs to replace the rears.
My other concern is if the rears are not cut or replaced, are the old polished rotors and new rear pads going to have the same braking as the new front pads with new rotors?
...just my two cents.
#26
Racer
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First I want to say that Lexus rotors have been the Achilles heel in my last two Lexus cars. Both my 2010 and 2014 had severely pitted and worn rotor surface. The 2014 had only 14000 when my wife noticed vibration at high speed braking. The dealer did a free surface cut.
My concern is if the front rotors need replaced why not replace the rears also. I value my families safety and feel it is more then the $100 plus labor in costs to replace the rears.
My other concern is if the rears are not cut or replaced, are the old polished rotors and new rear pads going to have the same braking as the new front pads with new rotors?
...just my two cents.
#28
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Well I am tackling this Pad replacement on my daughter's 2013 RX350, bought OEM Front Pads Akebono and Bosch Rear pads. I have not been successful in the bedding process. So help me through it.
#29
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This should help it is similar among most brands https://www.hawkperformance.com/how-to
If it still feels not right, give them a couple of hundred miles to wear in, especially if you have the same old rotors.
You may need to bleed the brakes, depending if you opened a bleed screw to push the caliper pistons back which can let air in to the system.
If it still feels not right, give them a couple of hundred miles to wear in, especially if you have the same old rotors.
You may need to bleed the brakes, depending if you opened a bleed screw to push the caliper pistons back which can let air in to the system.
Last edited by Clutchless; 08-17-19 at 05:03 AM.
#30
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Thanks for the tips. Easy peasy. Better design that prior model. I will go OEM next time. I had to re-use the clips from the old Toyota pads on the Bosch Rears.